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Balance Shaft Knock???

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crazyzx9rguy

Probationary Member
22
0
Sep 2, 2006
columbus, Ohio
When i rebuilt my motor I removed the rear shaft w/elimenator for the front , I left it in(did not have the block off plug...time was a factor) figured it would not hurt any thing, it's just sitting in there right, well i get crazy knock part, full throtle..23-30-40 counts 19psi.
Maybe thinking the shaft might be vibrating ??? everheard of anything like this???:(
oh yeah 4k on rebuild hasnt blown up 11.3 max afr bad bad bad timimg wot -6,7,8 sometimes
 
I'm sure there's not enough clearance for the BS to "bounce" around in the bearings hard enough to generate a knock signal. They're probably floating in oil that's just migrated there from the general oil-mist atmosphere of the crankcase.
However, I'm unclear from your wording which one you left in. The front, correct? That one has oil being fed to its bearings.
 
I know I'm alittle late on this one,but thanks for giving me reasoning:thumb:
And yes I left the front BS in. The rear was removed and i'm usins the eleminator
for the oil pump.
Also considering intercooler issues. I got it cheap from a friend so I didnt pick it for best performance. I just knew it was better than stock. 14x5x3 rughly. It's cool to the touch on the cold side after a 3rd gear pull, but still gets knock:confused: I don't belive it could be that but at this point I'm not ruling out anything.
IU did retard the base timing to 2-3* btdc yesterday, it seemed like it helped but then it kind of does the same thing 20counts of knock high rpm range The a/f ratio is 10.8:1 Race gas does the same thing as pulling base timing ,seems better at first but then comes back
Why can't this thing just run right (oh yeah that's how my life has always been never easy)
I'm at my wits end with this POS galant!!!:beatentodeath:
 
With knock counts that high i highly doubt its real knock. Probably phantom knock, aka something bouncing around in the engine bay, look around for ANYTHING loose in the engine bay and on the engine. Sometimes if something is able to tap around in there the knock sensor will pick it up.
 
If the Balance shaft is just sitting in the motor, it can move around. There isnt enough clearance to wiggle but it can rotate. This is why you need to time the shafts to the rest of the motor because extreme vibration will occur if they are out of balance.
 
hereitcomes said:
If the Balance shaft is just sitting in the motor, it can move around. There isnt enough clearance to wiggle but it can rotate. This is why you need to time the shafts to the rest of the motor because extreme vibration will occur if they are out of balance.

The front shaft has nothing to drive it with the belt gone and the rear has already been removed.
 
ok saturday I retarted the base timing to 0* . It seemed to have a good effect on the knock maybe 7counts at most. instead of 20-30counts. Do you think it could be the CAS?
I even ran SEAFOAM through it just to check that one of the list, didnt make it better. The motor has 5k miles on it now, I figured it might have some carbon in it from running so rich. No boost leaks, new plugs and wires, I just can't see it being P.K. after retarding the timing and it took alot of it away(corect me if I'm thinking wrong).
Do you think it could be result of a bad o2 sensor ?? It only reads .8ish max, not sure if that is related to it because it has an AFR of 10.8:1 as set by the AFC -23 across the board
So now where do I go from here?

Oh yeah went to the track Sunday turned timing back to 5* Ran 8.45 in the 1/8 too cold to run the 1/4 is what they said at national trail raceway. The time converts to 13.2 in the 1/4
I'm shure it was knocking like a biatch but the logger battery died so no loggs. So I wasn't too disapointed. It was one of the fasstest cars in the spotsman class. My buddies evo8 was the fastest running 8.14. I could have improved that but I suck at it being the fist time at the track with the car in 2years last time ran a 14.3 in stock trim with free tweaks
 
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