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balance rotating assembly

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Since this thread in my opinion seems to be somewhat misleading in regards to balancing and why it is important, I have gathered the following information. An example of balance that most people on this forum might understand would be loosing a wheel weight and experiencing a vibration or shaking in your car as you accelerate and decelerate through its critical phase usually around 45 to 55 mph.

You may find the section titled " Second order forces acting vertically" (near the bottom) very interesting since it pertains specifically to four cylinder engines.

From RPM Machine:
Balancing goes hand-in-hand with performance engine building. Balancing reduces internal loads and vibrations that stress metal and may eventually lead to component failure. But is it worth the time and effort for mild performance applications, everyday passenger car engines or low-buck rebuilds?

From a technical point of view, every engine regardless of the application or its selling price can benefit from balancing. A smoother-running engine is also a more powerful engine. Less energy is wasted by the crank as it thrashes about in its bearings, which translates into a little more usable power at the flywheel. Reducing engine vibration also reduces stress on motor mounts and external accessories, and in big over-the-road trucks, the noise and vibration the driver has to endure mile after mile.

Though all engines are balanced from the factory (some to a better degree than others), the original balance is lost when the pistons, connecting rods or crankshaft are replaced or interchanged with those from other engines. The factory balance job is based on the reciprocating weight of the OE pistons and rods. If any replacements or substitutions are made, there’s no guarantee the new or reconditioned parts will match the weights of the original parts closely enough to retain the original balance. Most aftermarket replacement parts are "balanced" to the average weight of the OEM parts, which may or may not be close enough to maintain a reasonable degree of balance inside the engine. Aftermarket crank kits are even worse and can vary considerably because of variations within engine families.

If the cylinders are worn and a block needs to be bored to oversize, the larger replacement pistons may be heavier than the original ones. Some piston manufacturers take such differences into account when engineering replacement pistons and try to match "average" OE weights. But others do not. Most high performance pistons are designed to be lighter than the OE pistons to reduce reciprocating weight for faster acceleration and higher rpm. Consequently, when pistons and rods are replaced there’s no way of knowing if balance is still within acceptable limits unless you check it.

If you’re building a stock engine for a passenger car or light truck that will spend most of its life loafing along at low rpm, your customer might question the value of balancing such an engine. But if you the customer value durability and smooth operation, the decision to balance should not be to difficult.

On the other hand, if you’re building a performance engine, a stroker engine or an engine that’s expected to turn a lot of rpms or run a lot of miles, balancing is an absolute must. No engine is going to survive long at high rpms if it’s out of balance. And no engine is going to last in a high mileage application if the crank is bending and flexing because of static or dynamic imbalances.

Forces In Action
To better understand the mechanics of balancing, let’s look at the theory behind it. As everybody knows, a rotating object generates "centripetal force." Centripetal force is an actual force or load generated perpendicular to the direction of rotation. Tie a rope to a brick and twirl it around and you’ll feel the pull of centripetal force generated by the "unbalanced" weight of the brick. The faster you spin it, the harder it pulls. In fact, the magnitude of the force increases exponentially with speed. Double the speed and you quadruple the force.


The centripetal force created by a crankshaft imbalance will depend upon the amount of imbalance and distance from the axis of rotation (which is expressed in units of grams, ounces or ounce-inches). A crankshaft with only two ounce-inches of imbalance at 2,000 rpm will be subjected to a force of 14.2 lbs. At 4,000 rpm, the force grows to 56.8 lbs.! Double the speed again to 8,000 rpm and the force becomes 227.2 lbs.

This may not sound like much when you consider the torque loads placed upon the crankshaft by the forces of combustion. But centripetal imbalance is not torque twisting the crank. It is a sideways deflection force that tries to bend the crank with every revolution. Depending on the magnitude of the force, the back and forth flexing can eventually pound out the main bearings or induce stress cracks that can cause the crank to snap.

Centripetal force should not be confused with "centrifugal" force, which is the tendency of an object to continue in a straight trajectory when released while rotating. Let go of the rope while you’re twirling the brick and the brick will fly off in a straight line (we don’t recommend trying this because its difficult to control the trajectory of the brick).

Back to centripetal force. As long as the amount of centripetal force is offset by an equal force in the opposite direction, an object will rotate with no vibration. Tie a brick on each end of a yardstick and you can twirl it like a baton because the weight of one brick balances the other. If we’re talking about a flywheel, the flywheel will spin without wobbling as long as the weight is evenly distributed about the circumference. A heavy spot at any one point, however, will create a vibration because there’s no offsetting weight to balance out the centripetal force.


This brings us to another law of physics. Every object wants to rotate about its own center of gravity. Toss a chunk of irregular shaped metal into the air while giving it a spin and it will automatically rotate about its exact center of gravity. If the chunk of metal happens to be a flywheel, the center of gravity should be the the flywheel’s axis. As long as the center of gravity for the flywheel and the center of rotation on the crankshaft coincide, the flywheel will spin without vibrating.

But if there’s a heavy spot on the flywheel, or if the flywheel isn’t mounted dead center on the crank, the center of gravity and axis of rotation will be misaligned and the resulting imbalance will create a vibration.

Applied Physics
Okay, so how does all this scientific mumbo jumbo translate into the real world dynamics of a spinning crankshaft? A crankshaft, like a flywheel, is a heavy rotating object. What’s more, it also has a bunch of piston and rod assemblies reciprocating back and forth along its axis that greatly complicate the problem of keeping everything in balance.

With inline four and six cylinder engines, and flat horizontally opposed fours and sixes (like Porsche and Subaru), all pistons move back and forth in the same plane and are typically phased 180° apart so crankshaft counterweights are not needed to balance the reciprocating components. Balance can be achieved by carefully weighing all the pistons, rods, wrist pins, rings and bearings, then equalizing them to the lightest weight.

On V6, V8, V10 and V12 engines, it’s a different story because the pistons are moving in different planes. This requires crankshaft counterweights to offset the reciprocating weight of the pistons, rings, wrist pins and upper half of the connecting rods.

Internal or External
With "internally balanced" engines, the counterweights themselves handle the job of offsetting the reciprocating mass of the pistons and rods. "Externally balanced" engines, on the other hand, have additional counterweights on the flywheel and/or harmonic damper to assist the crankshaft in maintaining balance. Some engines have to be externally balanced because there isn’t enough clearance inside the crankcase to handle counterweights of sufficient size to balance the engine. This is true of engines with longer strokes and/or large displacements.

If you’re rebuilding an engine that is internally balanced, the flywheel and damper have no effect on engine balance and can be balanced separately. But with externally balanced engines, the flywheel and damper must be mounted on the crank prior to balancing.

You should find out what type of engine balance you have (internal or external), and be cautious about indexing the position of the flywheel if you have to remove it later for resurfacing. Owners of externally balanced engines should also learn about installing different flywheels or harmonic dampers and how it can upset balance.

Balance Shafts
In recent years, the auto makers have added balance shafts to many four and six cylinder engines to help cancel out crankshaft harmonics. The counter-rotating balance shaft helps offset vibrations in the crank created by the firing sequence of the engine.

On these motors, make sure the balance shaft is correctly "phased" or timed to the rotation of the crank. If the shaft is out of sync, it will amplify rather than diminish engine vibrations.

Balance shafts are not a substitute for normal engine balancing, nor do they reduce the vibration and stress the crankshaft itself experiences as it turns.

Balancing Act
The process of balancing begins by equalizing the reciprocating mass in each of the engine’s cylinders. This is done by weighing each piston on a sensitive digital scale to determine the lightest one in a set. The other pistons are then lightened to match that weight by milling or grinding metal off a non-stressed area such as the wrist pin boss. The degree of precision to which the pistons are balanced will vary from one engine builder to another, and depends to some extent on the application. But generally speaking pistons are balanced to within plus or minus 0.5 grams of one another.

Next the rods are weighed, but only one end at a time. A special support is used so that the big ends of all the rods can be weighed and compared, then the little ends. As with the pistons, weights are equalized by grinding away metal to within 0.5 grams. It’s important to note that the direction of grinding is important. Rods should always be ground in a direction perpendicular to the crankshaft and wrist pin, never parallel. If the grinding scratches are parallel to the crank, they may concentrate stress causing hairline cracks to form.

On V6 and V8 engines, the 60 or 90 degree angle between the cylinder banks requires the use of "bobweights" on the rod journals to simulate the reciprocating mass of the piston and rod assemblies. Inline four and six cylinder crankshafts do not require bobweights. To determine the correct weight for the bobweights, the full weight of a pair of rod bearings and the big end of the connecting rod, plus half the weight of the little end of the rod, piston, rings, wrist pin (and locks if full floating) plus a little oil are added together (100 percent of the rotating weight plus 50 percent of the reciprocating weight). The correct bobweights are then assembled and mounted on the crankshaft rod journals.

The crankshaft is then placed on the balancer and spun to determine the points where metal needs to be added or removed. The balancer indexes the crank and shows the exact position and weight to be added or subtracted. The electronic brain inside the balancer head does the calculations and displays the results. The machines we have use graphical displays that make it easy to see exactly where the corrections are needed.

If the crank is heavy, metal is removed by drilling or grinding the counterweights. Drilling is usually the preferred means of lightening counterweights, and a balancer that allows the crank to be drilled while still on the machine can be a real time saver.


If the crank is too light, which is usually the case on engines with stroker cranks or those that are being converted from externally balanced to internally balanced, heavy metal (a tungsten alloy that is 1.5 times as heavy as lead) is added to the counterweights. This is usually done by drilling the counterweights, then press fitting and welding the heavy metal plugs in place. An alternate technique is to tap the hole and thread a plug into place. Drilling the holes sideways through the counterweights parallel to the crank rather than perpendicular to the crank is a technique many prefer because it prevents the metal from being flung out at high rpm.

After drilling, the crankshaft is again spun on the balancer to determine if additional corrections are required. If the crank is for an externally balanced engine (such as a big block Chevy), the balancing will be done with the flywheel and damper installed. On internally balanced engines, the flywheel and damper can be balanced separately, or installed on the crank and balanced as an assembly once the crank itself has been balanced.

New machinery has been introduced that both simplifies the balancing process and increases the accuracy of the job. Electronic equipment that allows accurate measurement of not only the amount of unbalance force, but also accurately reports the unbalanced vector position is now available to engine rebuilders. Typically, balancing machines have assumed that the unbalance force was equally opposed, so they would require the technician to correct the excessive amounts of unbalance on the excess side to the point of making them equal. Technicians have had to ‘stair-step’ the corrections equally until the final tolerance was attained.

Technology such as that in the Hines HC 500 eliminates this requirement. Software and hardware are combined to allow radical differences to be reported at each end of the crankshaft (including any rotational positioning or vector position of the unbalanced force). Because the position and unbalance amounts are reported correctly the technician can make changes to the crankshaft with confidence that he will not over shoot the correction. In most cases the required cycles of analysis and correction are reduced by 80 to 90 percent.

The unbalance amount and position are imported into a special computer program called "Heavy Metal Analysis" (HMA). This program allows the technician to plot the position and amount of material that will be required to correct the crankshaft. The program lets rebuilders create multiple scenarios based on rotation and radius position, weight amounts and sizes of Mallory – all of which can be simulated without having to cut the first chip.

How Long?
How long does it take to actually balance an engine? A typical Chevy smallblock V8 might take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half depending on how much work is needed and the degree of accuracy you’re trying to achieve. You’re obviously going to spend more time on a motor that’s going into a NASCAR Winston Cup racer than one that’s going into Grandma’s grocery getter.

Though a balancing accuracy of plus or minus one gram is typically good enough for most production street engines, many balancers today can achieve balancing accuracies in the tenths or even hundredths of a gram!

The most time-consuming part of the job is weighing and matching the pistons and rods. A four cylinder engine takes half as much time for this step as a V8. The next most time consuming part is making up the bobweights for a V6 or V8. This step isn’t needed with a straight six or four. The actual setup on the machine takes only a few minutes, and the initial spin and readings take only a couple of minutes more. The time required to perform the necessary weight corrections will depend on the crank (weight removal goes much faster than adding weight). And if you’ve done your work carefully, the final spin will require no further corrections because the balance will be right on the mark.

Most shops charge $150 to $225 to balance a V8. If heavy metal is required, add $40 to $75 per slug. Some shops charge less to balance engines, but these tend to be shops that are trying to compete in the budget rebuild market, not the performance market.

At RPM Machine we charge $185.00 for a standard V/8 and $195.00 for a V/6 (2 more bob weights). This price will take care of balancing a rotating assembly up to 40 grams out of balance. For peformance race engines and stroker assemblies that are farther out than this a price per hour will charged.

For more information or to schedule your engine for balancing please feel free to give us a call at 1-888-732-1595 and we look forward to helping you.

From SAAB:
Engine vibration

Automotive designers are constantly striving to improve the level of comfort in the car for both driver and passengers. Two key factors here are engine vibration and engine noise, both of which are a product of the basic design of the engine. Through combustion, where chemical energy is converted into mechanical energy, gas forces are generated which act on the piston crown. The reciprocating movement of the pistons and connecting rods, combined with the rotation of the crankshaft, generate inertial forces that act on the engine block and cause it to vibrate in various ways. At low engine speeds the gas forces are greater than the inertial forces but at high engine speeds the converse is true. The most significant forces arise periodically once or twice per crankshaft revolution. They are known as first-order and second-order forces. The first-order inertial forces are completely unbalanced since the crankshaft is balanced and the two piston pairs, 1-4 and 2-3, change direction simultaneously when they reach top dead centre and bottom dead centre.

Second-order forces acting vertically

Inertial forces are generated because both descending pistons in a four-cylinder engine travel further at a given crankshaft angle than the two ascending pistons (the lateral movement of the connecting rods accelerates the descending pistons but delays the ascending pistons). The common centre of gravity of the ascending and descending masses therefore varies, giving rise to forces moving upwards and downwards which vary periodically twice per crankshaft revolution and cause the engine to vibrate in a vertical direction.

Second-order forces acting laterally

During the power stroke the piston is pressed against the cylinder wall due to the angle of the connecting rod relative to the cylinder. At higher engine speeds, however, the inertial force is much greater. It can then be said that the crankshaft pulls the piston down and due to the angle of the connecting rod relative to the cylinder the piston is pressed against the cylinder wall, but this time on the opposite side. Regardless of engine speed, the gas and inertial forces acting sideways vary periodically twice per crankshaft revolution and cause the engine to vibrate in a lateral direction.
 
Great information

"Balance shafts are not a substitute for normal engine balancing, nor do they reduce the vibration and stress the crankshaft itself experiences as it turns."

a question that has been brought up many times


I still dont completely understand the concept of second-order forces
 
I posted quotes from that god knows how many times....

Basically DSM engine bottom end for dummys...

1. Dont grind the crank. Its nitrided... Get another crank if its toast....
2. Run aftermarket rods. THEY HAVE ARPS ALREADY and are ALREADY BALANCED.
3. Run wiseco pistons rediculously close in weight.. BALANCED.
4. Remove the SILENT SHAFTS AKA and misnamed as BALANCE SHAFTS..
5. Use a TQ plate with the EXACT same head and main hardware you will run TQ to the correct specs.. OEM to oem tq on caps... or ARP to ARP tq on the caps plus a line hone.. The head bolts should be ARP tq to ARP specs otherwise clean the plexi on your hockey helmet and buy a civic...
6. Run a new harmonic OEM DAMPER at minimum... Again not a balancer.. Dont use a non dampening underdrive. There will be also a 2nd SFI damper option soon...
 
Comment on #4:

Balance shafts are properly called balance shafts. They are counteracting the second order vertical imbalance in a 4-cylinder engine. Hence, they are balancing a vibrational force.

Kevin
 
kiggly said:
Comment on #4:

Balance shafts are properly called balance shafts. They are counteracting the second order vertical imbalance in a 4-cylinder engine. Hence, they are balancing a vibrational force.

Kevin
So they'd be correctly called vibration-countering shafts.
 
Wow, what a thread from ... must balance...to don't bother... to shaving cranks.

Stock 4G63's rev over 7k, and beg for more with a few mods :rocks:

Balancing your internals is like the last candle on the cake. Do it yourself (static) or if your wallet supports it, pay. Otherwise spend your cash on things well established in these forums for HP.

Removing a harmonic balancer? removing or substituting any part without understanding what it's function is... is risky.
 
Ok, this question seems to not be clearly covered; Do i need to bring my ACT2600 pressure plate to the machine shop to have it balanced with the ACT flywheel? Or does ACT balance their PP's well enough that i can skip worrying about it and just bolt it on when engine/tranny assembly time comes before the drop in?
 
kiggly said:
Comment on #4:

Balance shafts are properly called balance shafts. They are counteracting the second order vertical imbalance in a 4-cylinder engine. Hence, they are balancing a vibrational force.

Kevin

Hmm the mitsubishi manuals call them silent shafts..

Anyway anything connected via a floppy rubber belt to the reciprocating assembly has NOTHING to do with matching the component weights of each cylinder to each cylinder nor can it counter any force generated by the assembly before it is transmitted into the block..

the shafts counter balance the secondary imbalance by transmiting a centrifigul force into the block thru their bearings. Since its balanced it also means that the reciprocating assembly is doing the same. So removing the shafts does not eliminate this wear.

Also if a person went with the lighter steel rods and pistons available you could have a reciprocating assembly that produces the same g forces as a 1.8 liter inline which no MFG to my knowledge equips with balance shafts..

ALOT of other manufacturers 2.0s dont have them either..
 
Boosted98gsx said:
Do i need to bring my ACT2600 pressure plate to the machine shop to have it balanced with the ACT flywheel? Or does ACT balance their PP's

If you are paying someone to balance the assembly, by all means bring all the components.

I am confident ACT balances components. I also know mass production can produce mistakes. When budgets are tight... there is pressure to ship parts, mistakes or not.
 
so would me not getting my engine balanced have anything to do with my car having a light knock after the rebuild? i have wiseco 9:1 on eagle rods on a polished crank. motor was built by me, could that be the reason? LOL. i installed the pistons on the rods myself, could i have done something wrong? i had to replace the bearings once like at 1200 miles of the rebuild. what can i do, or how can i find out where the light knock is coming from??? seems like the knock is getting louder and bearings are gonna need replacement again.....HELP PLEASE!
 
BrokenTsi said:
in reality, its not very critical to balance your rotating assembly.

Wiseco pistons come matched extremely closely, usually to within .1 gram.
Eagle rods etc usually come matched to within 1 gram.
Stock crank is extremely well balanced from the factory.

In most cases, these shops will charge you and not touch the items. Call AMS or anyone and ask if they balance a stock crank. Theyll tell you its not worth it.

And you also run the risk of the shops equipment not being calibrated correctly and screwing them up.

So in other words, really not necessary with aftermarket internals.
Finnaly someone that know what they are talking about. As long as the piston and rods are matched into sets the crank dosn't need to be touched....unless you were scinceless enough to wast your money on a knife edged crank. If a light wieght flywheel and crank pully were purchased it dosn't hurt to have them ballanced. In my Machine shop I have a Hines duel palne coputerised ballancer, and I have seen a compleatly purfect ballanced engine get thrown 5 grams out of ballance just from an aftermarket pully and flywheel.

To further explain the differance between the 4, 6, and 8 cyl cranks and ballancing. The rod journals are 180 degrees offset from each other in our motors, in a v6 if a crank has common journals and that's a big if, the rod journals are roughly about 110 degrees off of each other, and finaly in a v8 the rod journals are 90 degrees off of each other. The long and the short of it is a 180 degree offset 4cyl. crank balances it's self.
 
streetraceboi, I would say when your crank was polished it put it out of spec. You may have to go with a new crank enless you like rebuilding quite often.

As far as balancing goes, I allways recomend it if you have what little it cost to do. I will not build a motor thats not balanced,nor would I want to waste the money I spent on my assembley over somthing because I was to tight to pay the $125-$175 to get it balanced. Just my .02:talon:
 
thanks, it sounds like your right. im just thinking you are since you said it may have put it out of spec, maybe just a lil bit, caused the light knock. and if the crank way way out of spec, a louder knock would have come huh? man, it all explains itself....:sosad:
 
sho_tyme_psi said:
streetraceboi, I would say when your crank was polished it put it out of spec. You may have to go with a new crank enless you like rebuilding quite often.
It will not take it out of spec, because each rod journal is 180 degrees off set from the others. Not to mention polishing a crank takes off an amount of meatal that isn't even worth mentioning. If it did you would have to have the crank ground to the corect size and tun .010 under barrings.
 
streetraceboi said:
i installed the pistons on the rods myself, could i have done something wrong? i had to replace the bearings once like at 1200 miles of the rebuild. what can i do, or how can i find out where the light knock is coming from??? seems like the knock is getting louder and bearings are gonna need replacement again.....HELP PLEASE!
I'm sure Precision would have more to add, but are you sure you did not mix up your main caps, install the wrong size bearings, or otherwise err on the build? He's 100% correct on the polishing of the crank having nothing to do with your problem, that is unless the crank was bad to begin with, but hopefully your shop checked that first.

As for engine harmonics, as MNGSX said, the balance shafts/silent shafts do nothing more than cancel out the natural engine vibrations of a 4cyl engine. All 4cyls have this vibration, the shafts just make it more civil for those that want a "refined" sports car. It's been proven for years that balance shafts left in pose more risk of harm to your DSM engine^10 than running without them. Especially so at > stock redlines since those shafts spin at 2x the engine RPM (8K * 2 = 16K RPM OMG ).

The crankshaft pully / harmonic balancer on the other hand serves the purpose of actually dampening engine harmonics from the crank. Without one (like on those cheep billit pulley kits) you have much greater risk of premature bearing wear and fatigue of your rods and crank.

Ahhh what were we talking about again :coy: :dsm:
 
Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my road race motor, after damaging a rod. I would like to know if it worth balancing my crower rods. They weigh as follows: 605g,607g,608g,617g. I don't rev to more than 8000 rpm. I checked them on a digital scale. The big ends are all within 1g of each other. The difference in weight is in the small end.
 
Balancing is mostly hype as was said especially with aftermaket parts that can be very close. And whats the point of balancing with a certain flywheel and clutch.What if you change out the clutch and flywheel then what..you are going to pull your engine apart and rebalance things..?
The factory motors are not balanced as assemblies and they seem to last a long long time.
I took out balance shafts in my 2.4 and bought a fluidampr balancer. The factory balancer is a piece of garbage.Had two go already on me at random miles.
I don't expect much extra vibration but guess find out shortly when it gets fired up in a day or so. I do have energy suspension inserts but just in front and back rollstop mounts.

And I have built lots of v8 engines and not balanced them and they ran forever.
In a full out race engine then maybe its worth it.For the average guy not worth it at all.
Save your money and use it for things that really matter.
 
AL92 said:
Balancing is mostly hype as was said especially with aftermaket parts that can be very close. And whats the point of balancing with a certain flywheel and clutch.What if you change out the clutch and flywheel then what..you are going to pull your engine apart and rebalance things..?

This is not really a reason to not get your engine balanced because you can have each componant individually balanced as the engine is assembled with the flywheel being balanced last, so a new flywheel would not require taking the engine apart, just balancing the new flywheel.
 
You are supposed to balance the entire assembly at once..flywheel,clutch, crank ,rods,etc
Some guys just balance crank and some crank rods and pistons but not flywheel and clutch.
Its all voodoo on most street engines. Pure race 10,000rpm engines well maybe.
I am only spinning my 2.4 to 7500 maybe 8000 tops .I have a way better balancer than the mits one on my engine. I dont have solid motor mounts just energy suspension inserts on the rollstoppers.
I don't expect huge vibs with no balance shafts and can assure you my engine will not blow apart from not being balanced.Mits dont' balance the stock engines and they do ok for 100,000 of thousands of miles it seems. Mits I dont' think also don't use torque plates or align hone the mains but might be wrong about those things.
Whatever its your money guys.I have built tons of v8 engines in the past when had a speed shop with zero problems and never wasted money balancing any of them.
Now some stroker motors might benefit from a bit of it did have a 383 chevy that was a bit bad for vibration once.But don't try to say its going to be the difference from an engine coming apart..not at normal type rpms.
 
Balancing everything as an assembly at once may be true of v-8's, but it is not how our engines are balanced, the previous posts make this clear. Each part is individually balanced as it is added to the assembly, thus returning the assembly to zero for each part, thus not requiring the the engine to be taken apart if a new clutch or flywheel is added sometime in the future. So it is not an argument that should be made for not balancing, the fact is you don't have to take the engine apart to balance a new flywhell, just the new flywhell has to be balanced.

The fact you have built various v-8 without balancing them and without problems is relevant.....how?

As has already been stated, the harder you push your engine the more you will benefit from balancing it. Regardless every engine will run better if balanced, it is merely a question of cost vs. benefit. 4-banger engines like ours see pretty high rpm's so I believe they stand to benefit from balancing significantly and the cost is justified. It is not that much more expensive, as has already been stated, $100-$150.
 
Well if you can get it all done for 100 to 150 bucks then its not too bad.Shops around here seem to be charging a whole lot more than that.
I said it was a good thing on a race engine.Does mits balance their engines at the factory?
Highly doubt it and mine have gone over 150,000 miles with no big problems.And rev to 8000 at least no problems at all.Talking my 92 and 91 dsms.
I thought you did have to balance entire rotation assembly together from what I have read.Maybe was mistaken.
 
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