Backfire/Sputter/Loss of power (not a boost leak)

[CorrupTTalon]

i just need help determining whether this is coil, VAF, or something else. i dont have much money to spend on parts and want to buy the right part the first time

i did a resistance test on the coil and VAF and the readings from the coil were weird and the vaf was low i guess - im not sure because i didnt use a hair dryer, instead my finger to warm the sensor

what happens is from start up (it usually takes two turn overs to get it goin) the idle is rough. if i let it warm up and take it for a spin it will go in and out of sputtering and loss of power. meaning i could have it WOT and it will have zero power then all of the sudden it kicks in and rights itself and takes off!

after a warm-up-spin and another few mins of idle, it will finally right itself and be fine for the rest of the duration of driving - meaning the idle will be rough (a low "blup blup blup") and after a while the idle will rise quickly like i just started it and then fall to 900k at a smooth idle - until i shut it off next, then its the same thing all over again.

ALSO if im driving and the car is doing this, if i push the clutch in and turn the car off and then turn it back on while driving, the problem goes away for at least 20 seconds. could this be an ECU issue?

any ideas or suggestions, i am all ears - thanks

 

[JLindback]

Here this link should help you being you have a 93. Im having a hard time getting codes pulled myself though with my ohmmeter. I dont have a sweeping on so its hard to tell when they are long sweeps or short ones.



http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/electrical/code.html

 

[Majikterror]

I'm having a similar problem, but mine I believe is my alternator. I'm doing a Saturn Alternator and Battery Relocate this weekend. I will post my results. I also ordered a AFPR so I will update after that. Mine started as a Fuel Pressure Solenoid code. Now I just have a Purge Solenoid code. Just curious do you still have original battery cables? Because I know mine is shot but my car still drives. The voltage drops to 12 volts when I slow down and then slowly bumps back up after a few seconds. Don't know if that is normal or not but regardless I'm upgrading the Alternator and all the wires. And I will have a confirmation after the AFPR makes it way here, because I have a 255 Wally no rewire or AFPR which I have been told is real bad.

@skater thanks for the info

@5start me too. i dont think its our ignition system, specifically plugs/wires, i believe it has to do with our fuel or electrical.

this actually didnt start happening until i touched my alternator main lead to the frame of my car - blowing my alt fuse. everything went to shit after that. have you done anything like that? or experienced anything before these symptoms occurred?

and thanks, there will be no T'ing.

i do have codes. even though ive never thrown a CEL. pretty lame.

P0141 oxygen sensor heater circuit bank one sensor two
P1500 means this alternator output signal is not working properly or a bad ECU
P1105 Fuel Pressure Solenoid.
P1104 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid.
P0135 oxygen sensor heater circuit bank one sensor one

Mitsubishi OBD-II Trouble Codes

im just going to run through them and fix what i can.

anyone know how to check fi an ECU is "good"? i want to check mine and one from a salvage yard

 

[Majikterror]

In process of relocating the battery I noticed my o2 wire laying on my manifold. It was torched through the jacket and there is wire exposed. I will post back after it is replaced. I didn't do the alternator swap but I will when I get a hold of the CS harness. I'm going to be setting my TPS as well because it is not showing 100 at WOT.

 

[sighless]

i fixed mine this morning.. turned out to be a fuel pump re-wire kit got it running how it should.