B&M Command flow AFPR?

[Bostedquest]

any hear of or use it?
says adjustable from 25-60 PSi...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ry=43951&item=7936345017&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

I am only looking at it because of the brand B&M...

 

[daren_p]

Not one that I would recommend just based on the fact that its not a true adjustable fpr. Its just bolts on top of you factory fpr, making it adjustable. The problem with this is that it still uses the factory return line, which is to small if your running an upgraded fuel pump & also the b&m unit only allows you to increase the fuel pressure, you are not able to decrease it. If your looking for a good adjustable fpr go with an aeromotive unit

 

[1fast97gsx]

I am only looking at it because of the brand B&M...

What is your reason for changing the fpr in the first place?

 

[Bostedquest]

What is your reason for changing the fpr in the first place?

well, I am going to a T4E, SAFC 255 HP, and larger injectors... I am tring to hit all the big items now while I have the cash to do so...

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

well, I am going to a T4E, SAFC 255 HP, and larger injectors... I am tring to hit all the big items now while I have the cash to do so...

No you don't want it. Get a real one such as an aeromotive.

 

[eclipse93b]

i have it and it works fine for me, i just got a 3000gt fp. i dont plan on running rediculous hp but i am getting ready for a evo3 setup w/ fmic and the works. you can decrease fp down to the stock levels, and you can adjust up from there. if your on a budget it works fine. just my .02cents

kyle-

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

The problem with this is that it still uses the factory return line, which is to small if your running an upgraded fuel pump

That is untrue. The stock return line is just fine for any pump that you actually mount INSIDE the gas tank. The B&M unit isn't good for the reason you stated though. Can't turnthe pressure DOWN.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

i have a PTE 50, denso 660s, walboro 190, b&m fpr mod, safc2 and the usual supporting mods.. would i have to lower my fp? i got B&M when i was still runnign a big16g and stock injectors.. but stil had the walboro 190.. this let me "cheat" without the injectors and run sufficient boost without any problems..

 

[1fast97gsx]

I'm actually using the b&m with my current setup and having no problems. I see no need to turn the pressure down unless you have the 255 hp pump. I have the lp.

 

[DSM90AWD]

I'm actually using the b&m with my current setup and having no problems. I see no need to turn the pressure down unless you have the 255 hp pump. I have the lp.

Stock my 1G ran 37psi base pressure. As injectors are normally rated at 3bar (43psi) so 550s would flow more like 480s :thumbdown so don't see the logic of wanting to turn fuel pressure down any further.

The real issue is not with the B&M, but with the internal diaphram of the stock FPR (like a turbo wastegate) which is too small to flow all the extra fuel the SupraTT and 255HP pumps put out causing it to backup and elevate the pressure (like boost creep in my analogy).

FYI.. I run the 190lph with Denso660s and the B&M set to 43psi base and have no probs running 21psi on the street with my 50-trim

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

DSM90AWD, 1fast97gsx.. thanks for making me feel better bout owning the B&M.. i didnt think anybody with 50trim setups or better ran these..

im really just guessing however on the fp rate because i dont even have the gauge with it..

 

[daren_p]

I'm actually using the b&m with my current setup and having no problems. I see no need to turn the pressure down unless you have the 255 hp pump. I have the lp.

You might have to turn down your fuel pressure below stock if you were running large injectors with an SAFC, since you would have to enter such a -tve value on the safc to compensate for the large injectors you would end up getting alot of timing advance, sometimes too much advance & you would have to lower your fuel pressure to compensate. Don't know how many people have this problem but it is a possibility (I have dsmlink & dont have to worry about this).

 

[daren_p]

That is untrue. The stock return line is just fine for any pump that you actually mount INSIDE the gas tank. The B&M unit isn't good for the reason you stated though. Can't turnthe pressure DOWN.

Maybe on 1g's the regulator return is big enough but most 2g's with an in tank pump larger then 190lph have a problem with the fpr not being able to keep up. I guess we need to know if its a 1g or 2g & what size pump he has. I guess what he uses to tune with would come into play as well.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Maybe on 1g's the regulator return is big enough but most 2g's with an in tank pump larger then 190lph have a problem with the fpr not being able to keep up. I guess we need to know if its a 1g or 2g & what size pump he has. I guess what he uses to tune with would come into play as well.

The return line isn't the proble, it's the diaphragm size inside the stock fpr. The CAS bolt-on AFPR uses the stock line for both 1G and 2G.

 

[daren_p]

The return line isn't the proble, it's the diaphragm size inside the stock fpr. The CAS bolt-on AFPR uses the stock line for both 1G and 2G.

Sorry, I didn't mean the return line itself, I ment the regulator wasn't able to return enough fuel.

 

[Bostedquest]

Maybe on 1g's the regulator return is big enough but most 2g's with an in tank pump larger then 190lph have a problem with the fpr not being able to keep up. I guess we need to know if its a 1g or 2g & what size pump he has. I guess what he uses to tune with would come into play as well.

Well I was thinking the 255, but after I see many people running similar to my designed set up maybe the 190 is it.
1Ga Talon (Literally JUST got put in my back yard a few minutes ago) Parts going on... T4E/T3 turbo, 24/12/3 FMIC, SAFC2, was thinking 650's, but may start lower, or run the stock 450's at a higher base PSI for now. Will tackle the CORRECT Cyclone install when I get the motor in this week. 2.5" O2 DP transitioned to 3" exhaust. 2.5" hard pipes.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Well I was thinking the 255, but after I see many people running similar to my designed set up maybe the 190 is it.
1Ga Talon (Literally JUST got put in my back yard a few minutes ago) Parts going on... T4E/T3 turbo, 24/12/3 FMIC, SAFC2, was thinking 650's, but may start lower, or run the stock 450's at a higher base PSI for now. Will tackle the CORRECT Cyclone install when I get the motor in this week. 2.5" O2 DP transitioned to 3" exhaust. 2.5" hard pipes.

What size t3/t4 and how much boost you plan on running? The 450's won't be able to keep up with much boost. The 190lph pump has gone 11's, but I sure as hell wouldn't wanna try it. The 255HP is the way to go. Spend the $150 and get a bolt on regulator.

 

[Bostedquest]

What size t3/t4 and how much boost you plan on running? The 450's won't be able to keep up with much boost. The 190lph pump has gone 11's, but I sure as hell wouldn't wanna try it. The 255HP is the way to go. Spend the $150 and get a bolt on regulator.

T4E(57 trim) T3(48 trim) Until summer it would not see anything above 12 PSi. As this summer I am hoping to get a wreaked AWD shell and do the conversion, then once that is going togeather, without a doubt go big injectors and the 255.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

T4E(57 trim) T3(48 trim) Until summer it would not see anything above 12 PSi. As this summer I am hoping to get a wreaked AWD shell and do the conversion, then once that is going togeather, without a doubt go big injectors and the 255.

I'll assume you mean a 57 trim compressor wheel with a .48 a/r turbine housing. Make sure you get an external gate with a 12psi spring then.

 

[Bostedquest]

I'll assume you mean a 57 trim compressor wheel with a .48 a/r turbine housing. Make sure you get an external gate with a 12psi spring then.

way ahead of you... ajustable 35 MM with a 11 bar spring... no creep here...

 

[daren_p]

way ahead of you... ajustable 35 MM with a 11 bar spring... no creep here...

Hmmm, do the wg springs ur talkin about have a special codeing for the spring pressure? If not your going to run a 11 bar spring? Hmm about 162 psi of boost, think ur gonna need more then a 255 pump

 

[Bostedquest]

Hmmm, do the wg springs ur talkin about have a special codeing for the spring pressure? If not your going to run a 11 bar spring? Hmm about 162 psi of boost, think ur gonna need more then a 255 pump

You missed the "Adjustable" part...
It has 11 PSi worth of seat presure until the desired PSi is reached, then opens...
It has 2 feeds, one to manifold pressure, the other to the boost controller. When the two numbers match, or if the manifold pressure is higher it opens. At least that is the way it was explained on how it operates to me.

Edit. yeah 11 PSi... just too many things thring to deal with and crossing a few things...

 

[dsmchips]

it still uses the factory return line, which is to small if your running an upgraded fuel pump

The problem with the POS B&M regulator is NOT the return fuel line, and its NOT the diaphragm, its the size of the orifice in the stock regulator, which the B&M does NOT replace. To get out of the regulator to the return fuel line, the fuel has to get through a tiny ~.050" orifice, which just CANNOT bypass enough fuel with bigger pumps. The way you can tell whether or not your pump is overrunning your FPR is simple: watch the fuel pressure, and reconnect the vacuum line to the FPR. If it does NOT drop 8-9 psi, the FPR is getting overrun. With most larger pumps, like the 255 or Supra, the fuel pressure will typically stay the same, line on or off, which means that you are going to run too rich at lower rpm's. The Walbro 190 and Denso 165 pumps will do it to a somewhat lesser extent, but they can still overrun the stock FPR, especially if you've done the rewire.
Do it right: get the FullThrottleSpeed AFPR, or the SARD on eBay, an Essex (SX) like I have, or an Aeromotive. Proper fuel pressure control will make all your tuning much easier.

 

[Bostedquest]

The problem with the POS B&M regulator is NOT the return fuel line, and its NOT the diaphragm, its the size of the orifice in the stock regulator, which the B&M does NOT replace. To get out of the regulator to the return fuel line, the fuel has to get through a tiny ~.050" orifice, which just CANNOT bypass enough fuel with bigger pumps. The way you can tell whether or not your pump is overrunning your FPR is simple: watch the fuel pressure, and reconnect the vacuum line to the FPR. If it does NOT drop 8-9 psi, the FPR is getting overrun. With most larger pumps, like the 255 or Supra, the fuel pressure will typically stay the same, line on or off, which means that you are going to run too rich at lower rpm's. The Walbro 190 and Denso 165 pumps will do it to a somewhat lesser extent, but they can still overrun the stock FPR, especially if you've done the rewire.
Do it right: get the FullThrottleSpeed AFPR, or the SARD on eBay, an Essex (SX) like I have, or an Aeromotive. Proper fuel pressure control will make all your tuning much easier.

Well what if I run the external AN fittings off the fuel rail? totally eliminating the stocker?
Also a question for you DSMchip... is it possible to chip a non chipped ECM?