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AWD clutch replacement.

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slowgsr

15+ Year Contributor
862
9
Dec 17, 2007
hamilton, ON_Canada
Hi, im just curious.. I searched, i am looking for some specific information.

I have found when doing an AWD clutch, which shouldn't be TOO hard, I have a hoist and air tools in my garage, but however have never done any work on Talon's before.

Heres my questions as things i have read from searching various threads.

1) I notice people talking about reinforcing their clutch pedal assembly before it breaks, but i cant seem to figure out what exactly is involved in doing so.

2) Running stainless braded line for the clutch lines, better pedal feel im guessing? Any details on this, if there is a kit i can purchase etc, more info on it.

3) Checking the 'Step Height' (free height?) of the pressure plate? What exactly this involves, im guessing it will be fine since im replacing the flywheel and not having machining done to my stocker, correct?

The car is a 90 awd tsi, and the clutch kit is a act 2600 6puck sprung and i will be using their streetlite flywheel as well.

Anything else i should inspect well the car is apart? Rear main seal maybe? Just curious since again i have NO experience working with talons!.

The vfaq.com has come in very handy, and should take care of me well, im just curious if theres anything else i should consider well i have the engine assembly apart this much.
 
Be sure to use the OEM throw out bearing . I would also replace the slave cylinder . New fluid obviously . New clutch fork , pivot/fulcrum . Stainless lines help with the pressure as they do not give or expand like the stock rubber hoses do .

I don't believe #3 will matter as you are replacing the pressure plate itself with the 2600 .
 
so i should replace the...
clutch fork
pivot/fulcrum
Would it be OK to inspect them? Or should be be replaced regardless of wear.

Also, are you saying i should replace the throwout bearing with an OEM one? And scrap the one that comes in the kit.. Just curious.

Also as far as the slave cylinder, is there an upgrade available (aftermarket) or should i just go with OEM, or is any aftermarket acceptable? Im guessing OEM is better quality like on every other part, just more expensive, i have no problem paying for OEM from the dealer though.

With the stainless line, is there a kit, or just put something together myself?
 
You could get by with reusing the fork and pivot/fulcrum . But why when they are not very expensive . Plus you will have it apart anyway .
Also everything I had ever read about the TOB is to use OEM . Same as the slave cylinder . The stainless hoses will be premade . You can get these through the vendors onsite here .
 
Slowboyracing.com has a stainless clutch line that goes from the master to the slave.
 
Here is a link for the SS clutch line:
Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Drivetrain :: Clutch Lines :: 1G Goodridge Stainless Steel Clutch Line

Do you have any idea when the last clutch job was done? Any idea when the master/slave cylinders were replaced?

If you answer "no" to either of these questions, this is what I'd replace:
-master and slave cylinders
-clutch fork
-throw out bearing and retaining clip
-fulcrum (pivot) ball
-fluid

There is no such thing as an 'upgraded' or 'aftermarket' slave cylinder.

Get all OEM parts. I believe ACT has fixed their tob problem (they used to include metal sleeved ones), but I would still get an OEM one and install it. While you have everything taken apart, why not replace everything? Yes, you can inspect most things, but just do it once and done. That'd suck if something went wrong after you got it all put back together just because you didn't get a new fork or something.
 

That link would be helpful if he was a 2g :rolleyes:

And it's not suggested to replace the whole clutch line (at least in a 2g - I'm not sure how a 1g is setup). The line you want to replace connects, at one end, to the slave cylinder, and at the other, to the hard line coming from the master cylinder. The reason is it gets rid of the accumulator as this is a restriction. There's no reason to replace the hard line as long as it's working fine.
 
Just a quick question (not trying to hijack the thread) but where do you get new clutch forks from? About to do my cluch install as well.

Any place that sells OEM parts. The part number is MD770506.

This is the place I've found that has the cheapest parts:
OEM Mitsubishi Parts

You can also get it from:
Slowboy - Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: OEM Parts :: Drivetrain :: OEM Clutch Fork
ExtremePSI - EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Clutch Release Fork : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
JNZ Tuning - JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts
 
My bad, they must've changed the description since the last time I looked at it. It used to be for only 2g's.

They are the only place I have found that has it for the 1g so I expected a response like that anyway. I was just trying to be funny with the :rolleyes:
 
-Get your flywheel stepped to spec (.608"-.613")
-throw away the aftermarket TOB and get an OEM one
-new fulcrum ball
-check your slave (pull the boot and see if there is liquid inside; if so, replace slave)
-check your master (see if there is fluid leaking from the rod seal; if so, replace master)
-ss lines are awesome, especially when you eliminate that dumb accumulator
-use moly lube on your new parts
-torque to spec + in star pattern
-inspect rear main seal and oil galley plug while you have the flywheel off. It's a PITA (trust me, I just redid it) to pull the trans off when/if those sumbitches start leaking. Plus it takes 10 min to swap it with the flywheel off anyway.
-MAKE SURE you have the two trans dowel pins in place, or else you risk destroying your clutch assembly.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151358418-post78.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151358422-post80.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151358423-post81.html
 
i concur just finished mine today. luckily for me everything broke on me. both my cv axles had ripped boots, my driver side axle was stick in my hub so the only remedy that worked was a torch and an air hammer (a 25 ton press didnt work!) so i had to get a new hub, then the parts store couldnt get me the right drivers side axle so on the 3rd (didnt have the ABS teeth) i just used it since my ABS doesnt work anyways. took me 4 days to complete b/c crap just kept braking. well chalk one up to experience. have fun
 
my friend came over earlier.. and we decided to just pull the whole drivetrain out, since i have other things i need to do to the block etc.

took us about 4hours with hand tools, neither of us ever working on talons before, he is however a mechanic.. so that was helpful, we didnt brake anything, no problems everything went super smooth, we just lifted the car up over the engine once it was loose (i have a hoist in my garage), much easier then using a picker.

anyways, i will get to the actual clutch install soon but it seems i know what im up against atleast, but im sure more questions will arise.

thankyou everyone.
 
ok.. I made a list of things i need to purchase/inspect.

get a OEM TOB, Clutch fork, Fulcrum ball and slave since its leaking.

The master looks ok, and i have yet to inspect the rear main and the oil gallery plug, i ordered that line from slowboy that replaces the rubber line, not the whole hardline since i dont think its all that important to do, and nothing wrong with it.

How does that sound, should i be good to go? I have a manual and will TQ everything properly, and grease it etc.

As far as getting my ACT flywheel stepped, is it really important, i mean, if i just check the step height myself and its within spec theres really no reason to do anything else to it, and i cant see why it wouldnt be within spec since its new.

Now i just need to figure out what i have to do to replace that timingbelt and water pump since the engines out....
 
If the slave is leaking I would replace the master also. When you replace just the slave it will increase the pressure in the system slightly since it won't be leaking any more. If you don't replace the master and it is old it will likely start leaking from the increased pressure.
 
I'd say definitely replace the fork/ball and master/slave and put in the SS braided line. Be sure to re-install all the bolts (ALL OF THEM!) in the proper place with the dowel pins. Be careful, a simple clutch change can end up being a world of hurt.

Read this through TWICE:
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Read this response that I posted to somebody's questions about clutch disengagement. It lists links covering worn clutch pedal fixes.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151202185-post7.html

Let me just say: REMOVE THE CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY AND REINFORCE IT!!! You may say "it's not worn now" or "I don't want to go through the trouble". The truth is, it WILL wear out, and having a 2600 will only accelerate it. Do yourself a favor and avoid WEEKS of frustration and just fix the pedal now.

Good luck!
 
thanks, i will look into the pedal assembly and what i need to do to reinforce it, i have a mig welder in my garage and other metal working tools, and im cwb certified in the flat position, so im no stranger to welding, so i should beable to fix it up!

Thankyou everyone!!
 
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