Autocross Setup help

[96DsmTunr]

Ok... after three years the car will be back from the frame shop and completely fixed. So far this is my mod list on my 96 Eclipse GSX. It has brand new Oem transmission, clutch, axels, control arms and has been straightened to oem specifications.

Suspension: Tein Type Flex with EDFC (lowered 1.5 inches), camber adjusters, Toyo Proxes 4 with aftermarket rims that are same size as oem, Rm swaybars, Megan front and rear tower braces.
Power: Apexi N1 exhaust and downpipe, HKS ssqv bov, Apexi power intake, Dejon Tool upper intercooler pipes, NGK spark plugs, Fluidyne radiator, Greddy radiator cap, and MSD 8.5 ignition wires.
Electrics: Autometer oil temp and oil pressure gauges. These have been removed due to terrible install by a "import race" shop... no one cares about quality anymore. I have the gauges and everything needed to install them I just trying to decide how I want them installed. I would rather not tap into the oil pan so I’m debating going the Greddy oil filter adapter route.

Summer is around the corner and I wanted some input on what I should do next. I am looking into a roll cage and finishing on a weight reduction (mainly removing the ac because it does not work even though everything is brand new). I will be removing carpet and all that and laying down dynomat in the rear to dampen exhaust sound. Also I have a vented VIS cf hood and 99 bumpers that need to be installed and painted. Thanks for any input.

 

[Anschutz_93]

Big FMIC and a FP28.

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

What class will you be running in? I believe the downpipe moves you into SM, in which case you will get your ass handed to you by damn near fully prepped race cars. This is all fine if you plan on just running against the clock to improve your time. Thats where I'm at (secretly I compare my times to stock evo's, sti's, and c6's!).

If you've never autocrossed before, view the AUTOCROSS INTRODUCTION tutorial on this page!!!

Here's a good website for some info on autocrossing a 2g:
Autocross.dsm.org

Your best aid will be seat time. Go on practice days (if you have them in your region) so you can get a lot of laps to work out your suspension settings and learn your car. When you feel comfortable, experiment with left foot braking and brake boosting (though that is hard on the car, so use it at your own risk).

 

[360glitch]

What class will you be running in? I believe the downpipe moves you into SM, in which case you will get your ass handed to you by damn near fully prepped race cars. This is all fine if you plan on just running against the clock to improve your time. Thats where I'm at (secretly I compare my times to stock evo's, sti's, and c6's!).

If you've never autocrossed before, view the AUTOCROSS INTRODUCTION tutorial on this page!!!

Here's a good website for some info on autocrossing a 2g:
Autocross.dsm.org

Your best aid will be seat time. Go on practice days (if you have them in your region) so you can get a lot of laps to work out your suspension settings and learn your car. When you feel comfortable, experiment with left foot braking and brake boosting (though that is hard on the car, so use it at your own risk).

Downpipe is legal in Street Prepared (class before Street Mod), but the BOV is not, nor would be the carbon fiber hood. Like TurboAWDfanatic said, your best bet is to decide what class you want to run in and then build the car as best as you can to those specs. That's if you're really wanting to be competitive and win. If you're just looking to have fun, screw what class you're in just get out there and drive. If you are wanting to come out on top though it would probably be a good bit easier for you to go back to an OEM BOV and run in the street prepared class. A buddy of mine and myself bought our TSi strictly for autocross and we are currently building it up for SP. We'll run SM one day but we have a long way to go before the car is ready for that.

 

[96DsmTunr]

I just want to go out and get some seat time and have some fun. I'm looking to build another car in about a year when I'm out of grad school. Thanks for the websites, I'll check them out and go from there.
I also forgot to mention I have all new slotted cross drilled rotors, pads, and calipers all around. What turbo should I be looking at that has good spool but will give me a decent power band? I was looking at a T28 or big 16g. I will also have dsmlink put on in the next few months due to my real bad mpg problem I can't seem to fix.

 

[snowborder714]

I think either the T28 or 16g (any variety) would be a good autox turbo. I run a small 16g and it was a bit much when I went and autox'd. It caused me a good bit of wheel spin (FWD ), but it definitely got up and went when I punched the gas. Anything bigger will have too much lag.

 

[96DsmTunr]

I was thinking of going with the FP Big t28. This car wont be for power or anything like that. I'll be building a drifting rx7 or supra in a year, so I'm not looking to spend a ton more money on this project but I still want a fun awd for weekend autocross.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

From what you say,
1) Lower intercooler pipes and possibly a Supra sidemount IC.
2) Boost leak test (that may solve part of your MPG problem)
3) Manual boost controller and up the boost a tad
4) Different tires. Those proxes 4 are good, but they have softer sidewalls then other ones that you can get for cheap. Such as Falken RT-615's
5) You also might want to think about getting some wider wheels. Some inexpensive ones would be: Rota, Stock Evo 8/9 ones, FD RX7 wheels, and also select Enkei's like the RPF1's. They are all cheap, some lighter then others, and are wider to give you better grip.
6) For better turn in, I suggest a Road/Race Front Lower Stress Bar (Seen here). On our heavy front ends, it really helps with making the response a little more crisp.
7) Brakes. What do you have now? If nothing, get some SS brake lines, some good track pads, and then if you really want/need them a set of slotted rotors. Match all those up with some good brake fluid and you'll be stopping fast.

Other then that, get some aggressive camber going on tear it up. Good luck .

 

[kanderson]

(secretly I compare my times to stock evo's, sti's, and c6's!).

Haha, that's where i'm at too, my bov and ebc throw me into OSPO (street prepared over 2.5 liters)

I agree with all these suggestions, I have a t28, and I am going to get falken rt615's this season, they are great performance for the price. Remember about modifying the driver as well...

 

[96DsmTunr]

I have a -1.2 camber in the front and -.6 in the rear right now I believe. As for the tires I got the proxes 4s for all around use so ill look into the Falkens when I get my light weight rims. I was thinkin of going with something by Gramlight. As for the rotors, I already have slotted cross drilled with a higher performance hawk pads. As for fluid I'm not sure what I am using. What is a good fluid to use and which pads to buy?

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Right now, I am on ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. But I have a few cans of Motul 600 sitting around for when I plan on roadracing the car this summer. I've had good experience with the ATE and I believe the Motul will hold up even further.

As for pads. It's hard to do for Auto X. You want a pad thats going to clamp hard to slow you down, but then you need something that warms up fast. So it's really up to you. Right now I am running a set of Porterfield R4-S all around but I will warn you, they take a few minutes to heat up. I've overshot many a times a turn at the end of my block when running late on my way to work . Tops brands would be: Hawk, Porterfield, EBC and probably a few others I can't think of at the moment. It all comes down to the compound of them. The compound determines how long they will last, what kind of stopping force they have, how hot they need to be for operating temp and so on and so forth. It's all about personal preference and driving style.

 

[kanderson]

Good post. ATE super blue and hawk pads for me too.

 

[96DsmTunr]

I have hawk pads i just dont know which ones so ill look into that thanks.