ARP's/headgasket - stock motor

[unplugme71]

I have 185k miles on the car and I'd like to get over 200k with it. I've done all the maintenance so far other than timing belt/waterpump.

I'm at the point where if I'm going to change out the timing belt/water pump, I want to replace the headgasket and go with ARP studs for my 2G.

If I go with an OEM headgasket, do I need to take the head and/or block to the machine shop and get it so its straight? Or can I just clean out the holes for the studs in the block and install the headgasket/bolts without doing any machining?

Also, what do I torque the ARP studs to?

 

[TSITurbo95]

If your hg is still good, than just install the arp's and call it quits. 80ft pounds in 3 steps.

 

[unplugme71]

well it hasn't given me issues, but I feel its worth changing it out since I'm going to have the head off the motor anyway.

 

[e85_4g63]

If your using a MLS gasket this time around, you'll need to have the mating surfaces machined to a smooth finish (ask your machinist if they can do a 40 R.A. finish or better, if they can't, run... ). If your not using an MLS gasket, you can get "zip wheels" from a Matco dealer. They look like 2" disc's with little rubber fingers on them (sorry for the lack of a better description). Those will clean up the block and head surfaces well enough (wipe them with a chemical cleaner and a lint free cloth) to install a standard head gasket with no issue's. Don't forget to blow the head bolt threaded area's out with compressed air or you could get a false reading with the torque wrench.

 

[unplugme71]

If your using a MLS gasket this time around, you'll need to have the mating surfaces machined to a smooth finish (ask your machinist if they can do a 40 R.A. finish or better, if they can't, run... ). If your not using an MLS gasket, you can get "zip wheels" from a Matco dealer. They look like 2" disc's with little rubber fingers on them (sorry for the lack of a better description). Those will clean up the block and head surfaces well enough (wipe them with a chemical cleaner and a lint free cloth) to install a standard head gasket with no issue's. Don't forget to blow the head bolt threaded area's out with compressed air or you could get a false reading with the torque wrench.

I just use a thread tool to re-thread them the same size. it helps clean it out as well.

I have a Matco tool with a wheel brush on it, but it doesn't have rubber fingers... I use it to clean up wheel hubs mostly.

 

[92GSXtacy]

Make sure to check the torque on your ARP's after a few heat cycles also.

 

[unplugme71]

thanks for the tip!

 

[gofer]

Just because your head gasket isn't blown doesn't mean that your head doesn't need to be machined. Cleaning up the gasket material and bolting everything back up isn't the right way of doing things if you want your motor to last. Read this (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html) link, if you don't have the means to check your head to see if its warped you need to take it to a machine shop and have them check it. Odds are with just under 200k miles on it that your DSM, at one point and time, has overheated which will warp it.

I suggest getting a OE Mitsu composite headgasket and torquing your ARP studs to 85-90 ft/lbs using the provided ARP molylube, of course doing it in three steps.