The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ARP stud question, working on car tonight need help asap!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

krummel45

20+ Year Contributor
231
0
Apr 23, 2003
Tampa, Florida
I was wondering if ARP studs need to be torqued down more foot pounds than what the stock numbers are?

thanks
 
Check out the instructions that came with your arp studs, 80 ft lbs with ARP moly lube.

DONOT use conventional motor oil, arp moly lube only. (should of came in the box)

I would torque to 90 ft lbs personally however if you plan to run high boost.

Make sure you chase and clean all the threads prior to installing the studs.
 
I bought the car from someone else and had to tear it down so i dont have the instructions.


I need the numbers for the head and the crank.

Also i plan to run high boost.

thanks
 
Originally posted by krummel45
I bought the car from someone else and had to tear it down so i dont have the instructions.


I need the numbers for the head and the crank.

Also i plan to run high boost.

thanks

Ok for the arp head studs they recommend 80 ft lbs when using ARP moly lube. This is assuming you cleaned and chased all threads in the block. I cant stress enought to make sure you use ARP moly lube, if you dont your torque will be off and you will more that likely blow a headgasket.

For the ARP main studs clean and chase all threads also. Install the studs into the block HAND TIGHT only using ARP moly lube on the threads. 60ft lbs with arp moly lube.

The head studs are HAND tight only also.
Hope that helps.

Oh and also remember to torque everytying in steps. 20,40,60,80 for the head studs for example.
 
Originally posted by krummel45
Sorry i know this is a dumb question but you said that the head studs are 80ft lbs but you also say that it needs to be hand tight. What do you mean by hand tight?

Put the studs in hand tight into the block, then torque the nuts.
 
arp doesn't list steps to take. I just hand tightened them into the block and then followed the stock torque sequence. I however didn't go in steps, I just went to 80, 80, 80 and so on. Am I going to have problems because of this? Arp doesn't say to use steps ...
 
Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
arp doesn't list steps to take. I just hand tightened them into the block and then followed the stock torque sequence. I however didn't go in steps, I just went to 80, 80, 80 and so on. Am I going to have problems because of this? Arp doesn't say to use steps ...

No they dont, thats just common practice when doing a headgasket. I dotn know if you will have problems or not. The main reason for the steps is so you dont warp the head.
 
I dont mean to hijack your thread but i have a ?, everytime i tightened down the arp headstuds in the block by hand and when i pulled my head again:thumbdown Some of the studs were tight while others were moving freely.

any thoughts?
 
Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
would it be recommeneded I undo them and retorque them or just leave it how it is? ... the car hasn't been started yet.

I dont think that would make a difference, Im pretty sure the biggest reason for it is to avoid twisting the head around. But if you warped your head its already done.
 
Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
would it really hurt to hand tighten them and then turn them a little more ( just a tad ) with an allen key just so they are all snug in the block??

Thats what I did, I got them just barely snug with an allen wrench just to make sure they were all even.
 
Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
ok thanks for the quick help. Hopefully my head isn't warped all out of whack OMG

You did follow the sequence in the book, and if the head and block were both decked you more than likely wont have anything to worry about.
 
yea both were decked ... the sequence was followed as far as the order, but I didn't do it in intervals. I did the first one and went to 80 .. then the second and went to 80 and so on. Hopefully it's ok.
 
i'm going to be installing my head studs when they arrive. I have a mitsu ml hg too, which side do u put the arp lube on the block side of the studs, or the nut side on top the head.

so let me get this right.

hand tighten the studs in

then step torque them to the proper torque specs

use the arp lube only

What about the "clean and chase threads" what does that mean????
how do i do that?
 
What side of the stud do you put in the block? The side with more threads or the side with less threads?

And cleaning and chasing means to get a tap of the proper size and retap the holes to make the threads perfect. Then clean the holes out very good. You don't want any moisture or grime in there because it can affect the torque on the studs.
 
Originally posted by FASTSPOOLINGST
i'm going to be installing my head studs when they arrive. I have a mitsu ml hg too, which side do u put the arp lube on the block side of the studs, or the nut side on top the head.

so let me get this right.

hand tighten the studs in

then step torque them to the proper torque specs

use the arp lube only

What about the "clean and chase threads" what does that mean????
how do i do that?

You put the arp lube on the threads goind into the block, Then after the head is on there, but lube on all the washers and the inside of the nuts on the threads.
You can just use your old head bolts, degreaser, and an air hose to clean and chase those threads well. Do it many times and be sure to blow all the water out of them after you rinse the degreaser off.
 
Originally posted by eclipsefwd
What side of the stud do you put in the block? The side with more threads or the side with less threads?

And cleaning and chasing means to get a tap of the proper size and retap the holes to make the threads perfect. Then clean the holes out very good. You don't want any moisture or grime in there because it can affect the torque on the studs.

The end with the allen key in it doesnt go into the block. The other end does.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top