ARP head torqueing

[Jlb8434]

ok guys the other night at the track i blew my head gasket. now i've taken apart the motor and the head is off. the ARP studs are installed but i need the torquring syquince for the nuts. any help is needed. thx.

 

[KentStateTsi]

torque them in a star pattern in 3 steps...30...60..then 100ft lbs

 

[espinelli]

I think 100ft lbs seems high. There should be a torque spec sheet that came with your ARP studs. Torque to the specified spec ARP recommends and be sure to use the arp lube as well.

 

[TSIfreek]

100 is way to much for head studs with ARP lube. 80 ft lbs is the final torque that is correct. Start in the CENTER and work from the front of the car to the back in a star pattern. 25 50 80 FT LBS. Torqure all to 25 then 50 then 80 with ARP moly lube.

 

[98spydert]

The sequence is the same as stock. Look in your shop manual.

 

[espinelli]

Yeah. But the wording for this procedure in the shop manual can be confusing.

 

[98spydert]

Yeah, now that I think of it I just used the picture and skipped the words

9 3 1 5 7

8 6 2 4 10

That should be the sequence if I remember correctly. 3 steps like the others said ~25 then ~50 and 70-80lbs with the supplied moly lube, ~90lbs if you're using 30 wieght oil for some reason instead of the moly lube.

 

[Nos~4G63]

ARP recommends 80, I did 85. Be sure to use a 12point 14mm to tighten the nuts.

 

[TSIfreek]

You will not gain anything by torqing it harder than recomended besides distored cylinder walls :thumbdown

 

[Jlb8434]

thanks guys, i think i got it. and the motor was build by my buddy thats in Japan right now and he installed the studs. I just blew the head gasket the other day and need the torqueing pattern ffor the nuts. and yea dumb me it's in the book. so thanks for all your help. this forum rocks when it comes to helping out with problems.

 

[KentStateTsi]

if the block was torque plate honed 100ft lbs is acceptable....100ft lbs+stock composite gasket=$

 

[eclipsegsx9797]

30-60-87 or 90

 

[92redman]

ok guys the other night at the track i blew my head gasket. now i've taken apart the motor and the head is off. the ARP studs are installed but i need the torquring syquince for the nuts. any help is needed. thx.

Since you had to ask what the proper sequence for torqueing is, I assume you didn't use the proper detorqueing sequence since it is the exact opposite. If you don't remove bolts/nuts in the proper sequence and in steps, just like with installation, you risk warping the head and causing more sealing problems.

 

[Boostin'X']

Make sure you either take a wire wheel to take the coating off or torque them to say 100ft lbs. If you don't you will end up getting head float at higher boost levels. The coating they put on the studs gives false readings.

 

[unior]

Make sure you either take a wire wheel to take the coating off or torque them to say 100ft lbs. If you don't you will end up getting head float at higher boost levels. The coating they put on the studs gives false readings.

anyone wanna add to that statement? why in the world would arp send those things coated if we're supposed to remove the coating?

 

[set3422]

Make sure the longer thread side goes to the block and the shorter thread (with hex key on it) goes over the head.

ok guys the other night at the track i blew my head gasket. now i've taken apart the motor and the head is off. the ARP studs are installed but i need the torquring syquince for the nuts. any help is needed. thx.

 

[NewB2dsm]

anyone wanna add to that statement? why in the world would arp send those things coated if we're supposed to remove the coating?

wire wheel the threads its true.

Also the stock specs for the torque on those head bolts are 65-72ft lbs. I knowt his b/c i looked it up sunday afternoon when helping putting a head back on the car.

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

You don't want to wire wheel anything other than your hands so you can stop posting that garbage. Drop the studs in, and torque them to the specs provided above. Good idea to go to a metal head gasket to, if you need ARP studs, you probably need either a mitsu multi layer or a Cometic.. or HKS ($$$).

 

[Boostin'X']

And that is the direct reason that I stopped posting on DSMTuners. When you can't figure out why you keep getting head float, don't come pissing an moaning to me. Go ask any shop that works on DSMs and they will all tell you the same thing wire wheel the threads, if you don't want to listen to me or NewB2DSMs then thats fine by me.

 

[NewB2dsm]

You don't want to wire wheel anything other than your hands so you can stop posting that garbage. Drop the studs in, and torque them to the specs provided above. Good idea to go to a metal head gasket to, if you need ARP studs, you probably need either a mitsu multi layer or a Cometic.. or HKS ($$$).

wow.. just wow.

 

[Boostin'X']

it's also amazing that the fact that if he drops a metal h/g in there that it will just blow again seeing that the deck and head surfaces arn't completely flat.

If your doing this with the head still in the car just go with an oem headgasket, numerous people have run 11s and 12s with a oem h/g plus it will seal a lot better than a metal one if you dont have the surfaces milled. But what do I know, I guess I should just go get that wire wheel and use it on my hands....

 

[Enraged78]

The exact amount that the nuts need to be torqued on the studs is listed on the back of the ARP box. They have a list, and the size corresponds to the particular application. In addition, the ARP studs should have come with ARP moly-lube, which significantly reduces the amount of torque that the threads absorb when applying the nut. As a result, it takes less torque to fasten an ARP stud/nut than a stock bolt. Be sure to use an allen key on the top of the stud to make sure it is fully inserted into the head. There is only one allen key, and it goes up. Do NOT over torque the studs, as they only need to be snug.

The sequence that 98spydert posted is correct. Inside-out is the rule of thumb.

Using a wire wheel on the studs is not necessary, and my machinist advised against it.

Read the instructions that came with the studs.

Matt.

 

[Boostin'X']

Even though that my cometic h/g doesn't come with instructions doesn't mean that I shouldn't have to prep the block. I have a few machinest that say otherwise about the wire wheels, and they have a tendency to build motors that see 40psi on a regular occasion. Call up Speed Design and see what they have to say, call up DarkStarImports in Missouri and see what they have to say. I didn't wire wheel my arps and the first time I ran 21psi, I got head float, took me awhile to figure out what it was, but took a wheel to it and solved the problem. Now I run 30psi without a problem, with the exception of bad valvestem seals, but we know how that goes.

 

[92awddsm]

Well, the only coating arp puts on their studs is cosmoline, which is just a really thick oil that can be removed with any basic solvent. A wire wheel can roll the peaks of the threads and compromise clamping force. If you read the instuctions the first time, you would have seen where they said clean all parts in a mild solvent before reassembly. I would reccomend a retorque after you have heated the car fully(cometic or any mls gasket especially). Head studs are just like any other bolt(rod, mains, etc) and will stretch slightly after torqued and which is probably why some of you have "head float". I never wire brushed my threads and ran up to 25psi on a fel-pro gasket with no failure to either.

PS- I also suggest spraying both sides of the cometic gasket with spay copper coat. This will help the gasket seal around the water holes on the block and head

 

[ldstang50]

ARP has specific instructions as to how my torque you torque their headbolts down to. When using their moly lube you are to go to 75ft/lbs and go in the sequence the shop manual tells you to go in. Usually starting in the center then workign out by going back and forth. If you do not use their moly lube you torque the head studs down to 85ft/lbs. Torqueing them down too much will more than likely warp your head. Also have an alan wrench to screw the headstuds into the block. Only get them hand tight. Once you feel them snug up thats it.
You said you blew your hg correct, so you are obviously pulling the head off. I recommend putting the head studs on with the head off instead of pulling out the bolts and dropping the headstuds in. Then slide the head over. Make sure you have your headgasket back on before you put your head on! Not trying to be a smart ass, but its something that might slip your mind after you get your head studs set.