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arp head studs install 1x1 method question

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eclipse012

15+ Year Contributor
183
10
Apr 17, 2008
canada, AB, Canada
I tried searching this but could not find anything come up on this. So for anyone that has done the arp head stud remove / replace 1x1 method while the head is still on the block, is it really needed to drain your oil and coolant for two days or so prior to swapping out the head studs? I was recommended by someone lately to drain the fluids out of my engine so I wouldn't get any oil or coolant creeping into, or by the head gasket. I'm kinda like, why is this complicated? Half the people that do this method don't even clean the threads out before installing the new arp's LOL
 
Lol I did mine without issue on a 200k+ motor!! Wouldn't worry bout it bro. Once the cars off all the oil is drained out of the head anyway. Just make sure to torque and back off and torque again like instructions say and use arp lube. And check torque again after one heat cycle (recommended).
 
Lol I did mine without issue on a 200k+ motor!! Wouldn't worry bout it bro. Once the cars off all the oil is drained out of the head anyway. Just make sure to torque and back off and torque again like instructions say and use arp lube. And check torque again after one heat cycle (recommended).

Did you bottom your studs out, then back them off 1/2 a turn? Or did you just bottom them out? Just was reading some more about what people have said through google search. It seems to be another head butting issue between two opinions.
 
I would do it in the torque sequence as well.

I replaced my gasket and timing belt but because I had to. Recent timing belt replacement?

Timing belt is on the list of maintenance for me to do as well, but I will do that at a different time. My head gasket is fine. I got a leaking valve cover gasket so its a perfect time to install the arp's I had ordered earlier on. I also plan on getting my valve cover powder coated while doing this to help spruce up the engine bay a bit more
 
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