Arkansas members

[V8Killer25]

I need a fmic with all piping for about 200?

 

[greanbeans]

pretty much just gonna get out of the dsm game for a little bit so i need this gone and im gonna sell it for what i paid for it also. comes with everything i bought for it and everything it came with minus some things that i sold to buy new parts for it just message me or text me if your interested in it. need it gone asap clean and clear title in my name and i could probably bring it to you for some more money for gas.

might be willing to part it out if the price is good on the parts just let me know what ya might want

98 talon awd part out - DSM Classifieds
heres the link to my partout ad

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

Yeah I wish mine was even sellable. Buy I just have to much into it yo back out now I guess... urgh if it would just ####ing work!"!!!

 

[greanbeans]

i know how much is in mine and im gonna take a huge loss cause it doesnt run but oh well i need money for other things

 

[V8Killer25]

Dang everybody leaving changed my mind.

 

[greanbeans]

not leaving just taking a break i guess. and i have a fmic and piping if you have a 14b or 16g with a j pipe style output. its pretty big also

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

So what's the deal with the car?

 

[V8Killer25]

not leaving just taking a break i guess. and i have a fmic and piping if you have a 14b or 16g with a j pipe style output. its pretty big also

how much?

 

[greanbeans]

So what's the deal with the car?

if you want it just offer i need about 2k for it to make me happy and it has more then that in parts so just offer on it. im keeping the fmic thats on it right now but will include a bigger one with it. id rather sale local then move it out of state

how much?

um 200 minus bov with bov id say 250 or so

ill sell a complete engine for cheap has h beam rods arp 2000 rod bolts arp head studs 272 cams titanium springs retainers and everything have a brand new in box timing set that i bought for it also thats included

nevermind shell is sold

 

[DSML7dropkick]

Damn man hate to see you go but you got to do what you got to what you got to do.

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

Good luck man. Hope to see ya soon

 

[greanbeans]

I'll be back and I'll probably be driving a first gen talon but you never know

guess i cant sell the shell oh well anyone want a 7 bolt engine and a awd sheptrans

ok guys im gonna sell the whole car to anyone who wants it for 2k first come first serve i need to move this thing

 

[cabot2g]

This car has me so frustrated. I actually had the car running when I first tried starting it. It was running great. I went to install a coolent gauge and ended up removing the coolent temp sensor for the ecu.

The car started running rough and rich, realized that the sensor I pulled caused the problem. I replaced the sensor and expected the car would return to running as it should.

It didnt get better, it was still running rich and rough.

I finally got the wide band installed and installed the socketed ecu with link. Thinking I would be able to get it to start and log what was actually going on.

Now I cant even get the car to start. It turns over hits one lick and thats it. Its almost acting like its firing out of order. It fires and then stalls as it trys to turn over. I am stumped, just stopped tonight before I end up messing something up.

***************************************************************

Update:

I go to ECMLink and look on the Wiki. It states... "A blown sensor ground trace will be evident in datalogs. It will result in -40F intake and coolant temp readings, 100% TPS, an unusually high Baro reading (like 37 inHg) and O2 voltages greater than 1V. The car will also most likely not even start. Note that with the V3 application, you may see as low as -74F on the intake and coolant temp readings. "

Im getting a -74 F coolent, the intake temp was about right so I dont know if this what I have or not. I really hope I didnt blow the ground trace in the ECU.


I feel its something simple that Im missing. I want to get it going and out of the garage.

Going to get new spark plugs tomorrow, these have fowled a couple times. I have cleaned them up but Im thinking at least with new plugs I can be assured its not plugs. When I pulled the plugs and checked them ... 1,3, and 4 were wet. Plug 2 was dry and fouled with carbon.
I will change the plugs and try starting again and check to see how they look after trying to start.


I did notice on my data capture that the coolent temp was showing as -74 F
I have a feeling this is part of the problem but I dont know how to correct it.

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

Ok. Going to do a compression test. How do I figure ratios?

 

[DSMReviver]

Bob try posting your log in general forum. I am not really familiar with link either and hopefully some one will able to help out. You are definitely running rich there and hope you arnt flooding your engine. This looks like how my car was running with bigger fuel pump and big injectors with no regulator at the first start up. Mine was so flooded with fuel in the oil pan that I had to change the oil a couple of times before we can control the fuel. We had to idle it with stock 450's and even that it was way to rich. And watch out for the oil in the pan because you don't want the fuel to thin out the oil. It will start eating out the bearings when that happens.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

What year ECU is it? 95-96?

If so, not only do you need to set the Invert CAS option in Link, you need to change your firing order from 4-1-2-3 to 2-3-1-4. If you don't do this, IF it ever starts it will sound like a tractor.

If you need any help with Link, give me a call tomorrow. 870-476-3029. I'm off all day. If you have internet available on your laptop then I can actually even remote in and take control of the program and adjust everything for you. Might have to walk you through adjusting your Throttle body, also.

Hope it helps.

 

[cabot2g]

What year ECU is it? 95-96?

If so, not only do you need to set the Invert CAS option in Link, you need to change your firing order from 4-1-2-3 to 2-3-1-4. If you don't do this, IF it ever starts it will sound like a tractor.

If you need any help with Link, give me a call tomorrow. 870-476-3029. I'm off all day. If you have internet available on your laptop then I can actually even remote in and take control of the program and adjust everything for you. Might have to walk you through adjusting your Throttle body, also.

Hope it helps.

The receipt from ECMLink says it is a 95-97 2G DSM. It is the gold colored metal case. Im going to rewire the wires going to the cop. I had a feeling it was off when I frist tried to start it with the new ecu.

Also I am still stumped with the coolent temp... I looked at the 99 ecm and all the tracks looks good and the other sensors seem to be working.
I need to find what pins is for the coolent sensor and check for continuity and resistance. May have a bad connection or wire still, thats all I can think of.

Ill give you a call and I do have wifi for the laptop in the garage.

 

[DSML7dropkick]

A pinched wire to the cts might explain the reading on the new sensor. trace the wires back from the cts and make sure its not it. new plugs are a good idea but if still at -74 wont take long to refoul the new plugs. gas kills plugs fast and easy especially if its not running.

 

[boosteclipse]

Bobby, you have a 95 ecu, do as Alex said and swap the firing order and select the non 95/96 cas in link. You may still have issues with the coolant sensor.

 

[cabot2g]

When I get home I am going to switch the cop wiring. I still think I have a issue with either the ECT or the plug. I found the specs and will check the sensor and the wiring from the ecu to the plug.

********************************************************************************
Update:

Switched the pins to the power transistor and the car started right up.

Im still having issues with the coolant sensor. Its still showing -74 F so I know thats what is causing the car to run rough but at least I got it started.

Now I just need to find out what is wrong with the ECT...

Also how do I check the CEL?
When I first truned the key on it came on for about 6 seconds and went off. Started the car and now its staying on.

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

When I get home I am going to switch the cop wiring. I still think I have a issue with either the ECT or the plug. I found the specs and will check the sensor and the wiring from the ecu to the plug.

********************************************************************************
Update:

Switched the pins to the power transistor and the car started right up.

Im still having issues with the coolant sensor. Its still showing -74 F so I know thats what is causing the car to run rough but at least I got it started.

Now I just need to find out what is wrong with the ECT...

Also how do I check the CEL?
When I first truned the key on it came on for about 6 seconds and went off. Started the car and now its staying on.

Your CEL is sopposed to stay on for about 5-6 seconds. That's how.mine is. I think it means your ECU is doing the checks. Does your boost gauge go from vacuum to 0 ? But I would swap the firing order as ale said. But I don't k.ow shit about.link

 

[cabot2g]

The CEL did go off untill I started the car... now it stays on.

I rewired the car and its running now. Still having issues with the ETC sensor. Its still showing -74 F

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

The CEL did go off untill I started the car... now it stays on.

I rewired the car and its running now. Still having issues with the ETC sensor. Its still showing -74 F

I don't know if its possible to just rewire your coolant temp.into your ecu? Pr am aftermarket?

Sorry my phone is ###. Gramar issues.

 

[cabot2g]

Was able to drive the car today. Its running ok, I still have to get the tuning better. Im getting knock retard when making a small pull. Still cant get the ECT to work, I am going to switch it out this weekend and see if that fixed it.

Also going to get a good log tomorrow to post up for help. I know it has lot to go but its good to hear it run.

 

[DSML7dropkick]

Was able to drive the car today. Its running ok, I still have to get the tuning better. Im getting knock retard when making a small pull. Still cant get the ECT to work, I am going to switch it out this weekend and see if that fixed it.

Also going to get a good log tomorrow to post up for help. I know it has lot to go but its good to hear it run.

I have a snap on scan tool. If you need me too I could come by and scan it. Just hook it up with a little gas money and it's all good.