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Are there any guys out here interested in a job?

I have a postiton open as a GSE Technician working on industrial equipment at the Little Rock airport. If any local guys interested send me a PM with a number and I can give you a call and discuss the details.

Text me about the pay/hours and ill spread the word at work. Many people are part-time Air Force and may want it.
 
Well...the death of an engine. 0 compression in cylinder 3, pulling it soon, if the block is ok I am rebuilding to sustain 30 psi dd....Will be a long project LOL
 
So I realise why I couldnt get my new u joint to work turns out one of the needle bearing fell and was just smashing against the end cap:notgood: so in a fit of annoyed rage I dropped the 300 on the jnz full rebuild kit for the drive shaft with the torque solutions carrier bearing mounts while I wait on that im gonna get this driveshaft cleaned up pretty! Also take apart the transfer case to give it an updated gasket seal then clean it and paint. Amazing how every little break in this project has turned into a full on detail LOL

After spending the weekend under the car I can see the subframe being next after bushing install.
 

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hey guys I have some parts for sale. I have .....

2G stock exhaust manifold with un-cut heat shield-OBO-
2G stock turbo flange-OBO-... I can't remember what the correct part name is
28" braided oil/ brake line-$30- had this made to run my 14b but ended up not using it. never seen oil or anything.
Turbo oil restrictor with gasket and copper washer-OBO-
14b compressor housing-OBO- This will come with the circlips and the compressor wheel- Wheel is no good has bent fins.
1G oil cooler-OBO-
2G stock shifter with base-OBO-
2G stock oil filter housing with bolt-OBO- Nothing wrong with it. I thought there was but ended up being a gasket issue. I bought this before checking the gasket.
2G valve cover gasket unknown brand-OBO-

Hit me up if any one wants anything. Shoot me a price and we can work out the shipping if no one wants to pick up.

I forgot the 2G stock Pistons-OBO- Pulled the from my running 95 GST with
142xxx miles. They do have very small knicks in them from the previose owner popping the timing belt but they are tiny
 

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Seems we're all under our cars the last few days. For the love of the DSM god, don't tell me your subframe is rusted all to hell, I had that happen on a 240sx back when I was drifting all the time... I've found anything to deal with the subframe is a priority job.
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I just finished cleaning, installing new seals and painting the transfer case to go with the sexy transmission. The UICP has been a bi***, more so then getting the trans in and let me tell ya, NOT something I want to do again. I'm happy my drivesaft is new... well, about six years old but only maybe 100 miles after install so it's stupid clean.
 

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Motor getting yanked tomorrow. Thought you guys should know LOL.

Hillala, I like the way your plug wires go over the valve cover. Is it modified like that, or do you just spin the wires upward?
 
The brotherly love discount does not apply to that line. I payed 80 buck to have it made so i have to get the $30 for it.... If it was anything else in the box you could of had it for free.

I don't need it that bad. Put it on the classifieds. I could really come and go with these cars ATM.

Can buy a line cheaper than that, the only difference is, it isn't flexible.
 
I don't need it that bad. Put it on the classifieds. I could really come and go with these cars ATM.

Can buy a line cheaper than that, the only difference is, it isn't flexible.

It is already there trust me. I can't just give it away for what I payed for it. If it never sells I can always use it on a future project. I've had this line over almost a year and it's not hurting me to hang on to it. Thought i would offer it to someone who needs a good quality SS braided line. The length is why it cost me so much.
 
Hillala, I like the way your plug wires go over the valve cover. Is it modified like that, or do you just spin the wires upward?

Thanks man, I just moved the wires upward and they run across the fuel line on some brackets I made, about to relocate the coilpack as well so I guess you can say it's modified, LOL.

They looked like crap bunched together on the valve cover with the stock look and I don't really care for the cover that bolts up. I think it's the best look to go with until I get a coil-plug set.
 
I don't blame ya, man. I have some surface rust under my hood where I had to cut some for my front mount. I'm getting it cleaned up now that i'm getting everything back together.
 
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Can someone tell me why this housing has this notch in the middle. Its the one that came on the turbo. I have a new one coming
 

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Can someone tell me why this housing has this notch in the middle. Its the one that came on the turbo. I have a new one coming

Because it's awesome!!!! No actually IDK on that one. Do you think you will be installing the 16G this weekend? If you are I am already bailing out on you now just to let you know. I got to fly to SDF(louisville KY) to Pick up my new work truck. I leave saturday morning 6 AM and don't get home till around the 10 PM or later mark. Sorry buddy .....

AJ,
I spoke to Harold and I think he might be what I'm looking for. I am waiting on his application to review it but things are looking promising.
 

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[QUOTECan someone tell me why this housing has this notch in the middle. Its the one that came on the turbo. I have a new one coming[/QUOTE]

This is very good thing. It help keep the flap from opening at high boost pressure.

I did exact same thing to my 16g turbine housing.

By cutting a notch between the dividers, it allows the exhaust gas to come in and create a pressure on the other side of the turbine. This helps equalize the pressure between the flapper. With equalize force, it allows the springs in the waste gate to do it job of holding the flap shut better.

Holset, and Borwarner turbos use the same concept in all their internal gated turbos. Nothing new.

Im suprise nobody knows about this concept or has adapt it to their 16g's or other internal gated turbos. Boost spikes is one of the result of not having this done to the turbine housing. I would even open that notch a little bit wider to allow more gas in. Ill post a pic of how mine is done.
 
[QUOTECan someone tell me why this housing has this notch in the middle. Its the one that came on the turbo. I have a new one coming

This is very good thing. It help keep the flap from opening at high boost pressure.

I did exact same thing to my 16g turbine housing.

By cutting a notch between the dividers, it allows the exhaust gas to come in and create a pressure on the other side of the turbine. This helps equalize the pressure between the flapper. With equalize force, it allows the springs in the waste gate to do it job of holding the flap shut better.

Holset, and Borwarner turbos use the same concept in all their internal gated turbos. Nothing new.

Im suprise nobody knows about this concept or has adapt it to their 16g's or other internal gated turbos. Boost spikes is one of the result of not having this done to the turbine housing. I would even open that notch a little bit wider to allow more gas in. Ill post a pic of how mine is done.[/QUOTE]

Well seems like a good thing! The whole thing is covered in cracks BAD so I ordered a whole brand new hotside. Thanks for clearing it up for me!
 
Well. Got my head off and idk why it started running the way it did...head seemed good, head gasket was good and block so far looks in decent condition. Little notch in cylinder 4 but it wouldn't have ran like it did with that. Gonna pull the block now and see if I find anything else wrong. Any input?
 
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