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Who needs rims? I have a set of konig illusions new in their boxes. Black with blue accents, 17" in dsm pattern. I bought them from a friend that decided against a project. Cost him $600, I would like $325.

The ridiculously pretty ones that your brother tool the time to show off when I picked up the Talon? Haha. Toss them up with some pictures and I bet they go rather quick.
 
Wow so I finally pulled the head off in the garage this afternoon with the garage door closes and the gases that game out if the bolt holes is crazy awful smelling. I didn't notice it at first but the landlord knocked in the door and thought there was a natural gas leak LOL. They even called the gas company and he could smell it when he steppe outta the truck. Anyone els remember this smell? It's been so long since I pulled the head.

My wife is gonna be pissed when she gets home and smell the house LOL.

This is perfectly normal. Every head that I have removed which had been in a running vehicle for some time produced this smell with every head bolt as they were released of pressure. I would assume it has to do with the air stuck during the initial install becoming foul after thousands of heat cycles over the years and/or other moisture that gets trapped. I've never thought to ask what, exactly, causes it but know that it is normal.
 
This is perfectly normal. Every head that I have removed which had been in a running vehicle for some time produced this smell with every head bolt as they were released of pressure. I would assume it has to do with the air stuck during the initial install becoming foul after thousands of heat cycles over the years and/or other moisture that gets trapped. I've never thought to ask what, exactly, causes it but know that it is normal.

That's good to hear, this is what I was thinking was probably happening.

I'm working on tearing down the head, where do you guys recommend going for some 3G lifters? I have 1g in the head currently.

Hope is to hydro test the valves and check the head deck today before I rip it all apart and start the port and polish.
 
That's good to hear, this is what I was thinking was probably happening.

I'm working on tearing down the head, where do you guys recommend going for some 3G lifters? I have 1g in the head currently.

Hope is to hydro test the valves and check the head deck today before I rip it all apart and start the port and polish.

The best place, honestly, is to locate them from the classifieds here or over at the ECMtuning forums. I've always gotten mine here and there for a great price and in good condition from both sources.

We can catch up some time. I'm still learning these cars myself.

Hey~ Bring a 6 pack and a dry erase board and I'll share what I know while trying not to draw too many silly pictures in the process. I still haven't made my way down there. A meet is required once it gets warm.
 
Ill try and bring that stuff this weekend to ya bobby. Just gotta tear my dodge apart and fix some oil leaks
 
I agree a meet is in order. There are more and more people on this thread. We just have to find a comfortable middle meeting spot. I think either the heber springs area or maybe at the newport track. I got the approval from the wife for my last remaining items needed to finish my build so hopefully I can get it done by mid febuary. Maybe someone can help me with a part I'm needing. I am in need of the little metal sleave that goes in between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. Anyone have one lying around. I do have the cash for shipping and for the part. I had mine but am unable to locate it. I am going to try and get my oil feed line for the turbo today as well. I have found a place here close to the airport that makes lines and we do business with them all time. Being that I have to drop a cylinder off to them today I will take my turbo and the fitting with me so they can make me a line.
 
I agree a meet is in order. There are more and more people on this thread. We just have to find a comfortable middle meeting spot. I think either the heber springs area or maybe at the newport track. I got the approval from the wife for my last remaining items needed to finish my build so hopefully I can get it done by mid febuary. Maybe someone can help me with a part I'm needing. I am in need of the little metal sleave that goes in between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. Anyone have one lying around. I do have the cash for shipping and for the part. I had mine but am unable to locate it. I am going to try and get my oil feed line for the turbo today as well. I have found a place here close to the airport that makes lines and we do business with them all time. Being that I have to drop a cylinder off to them today I will take my turbo and the fitting with me so they can make me a line.

My weekends are open now so no worries with Saturdays.

By sleeve you mean that 2-3 inch tall metal ring that goes between the two? That was installed by factory to assist in keeping the stock gasket between the turbo and manifold from blowing prematurely. Most aftermarket gaskets eliminate the need for such a thing. To be honest I've only had one in any of my cars and it was cracked in half. Some say it's useful, some say it's not. I personally never use it and just go with a multi-layer aluminum gasket with copper spray. Never deal with a leak.
 
What's this talk about a track? Meet in a boat on the River with a keg and some rifles.

Kidding, that's far too Southern for my taste. A track meet would be fine. :) I should have the Talon on her on weight this weekend and running within the next 1-2 weeks. ExtremePSI is sending me the correct bolt as well as the additional copper washers for my OFH and Oil Cooler as we speak so I'll be able to get everything installed next week.

One thing I've been dealing with is my fear of the small amount of metal shavings that will flow from the head through the engine. With every rebuild there are always bits of metal that run through - thus is why people change their oil/filter so frequently. I will be doing this due to drilling out the head, but it makes me nervous every time. I'm thinking about getting a screen and hand pumping a gallon of oil through the OFH and using the turbo feed line (bolted to the head but not to the turbo, of course as I will be keeping it out of this phase completely) and cycling the oil through the system, out of the line in the head, and into a filtered pan. Then I will repeat the process a few times. I believe this should be the more careful method to eliminate any large shavings in the head that may be present before starting the vehicle.

Once I get to the point of starting it, I will be running it for about 10 miles, performing an oil/filter change. Then 50. Then going on from there I will perform regular changes. I would originally going to douse everything in diesel but I don't feel like pulling my expertly installed oil pan. :p IE - Removing that RTV. Thoughts?
 
Is there any way you could use a high powered drill when you prime the oil pump and running the shit out of it that way? Maybe run a beached weight through it at first doing it like that so maybe it will catch alot of the nasty?

Heavier weight oil***
 
Yes I am talking about said ring. I have a felpro turbo gasket kit that I installed to the t-25 when I installed the new mani about a year ago. I didn't use the ring the first time and had a leak so I reinstalled the ring but I didn't use copper spray so that might have been why it leaked. I will try it without the ring and some copper spray and see how well it works. Sounds like a good idea on hand pumping in oil to remove metal shavings plus the several oil changes. I just put my order in on my oil feed line and should be able to get it on monday or tuesday. I'll go ahead and put everything together and just wait for the line. As far as a boat is concerned if we met at Heber and everybody pitched in 30-40 bucks each we could get a barge. i think a days rental for a barge is around 250-300 plus fuel but I'm not 100% sure on the rental price.
 
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Is there any way you could use a high powered drill when you prime the oil pump and running the shit out of it that way? Maybe run a beached weight through it at first doing it like that so maybe it will catch alot of the nasty?

Heavier weight oil***

The engine has been assembled and as such I will not disassemble the timing due to laziness so that knocks out the possibility of using the oil pump. The method that I'm used to using is to remove the nipple for the brake booster on the back of the intake manifold and screw it into the port that the Oil Pressure Sending Unit uses on the bottom of the OFH. From here I can get a hand pump and pump oil from the OHF up through the engine and to the head - pushing anything in the way through it and out of oil feed line. This will also wash anything from the head down into the pan where I can also drain and screen. Doing this a few times will hopefully result in a clean engine. I'm sure the first few miles of driving will also result in any residual amounts being picked up by the filter.

Yes I am talking about said ring. I have a felpro turbo gasket kit that I installed to the t-25 when I installed the new mani about a year ago. I didn't use the ring the first time and had a leak so I reinstalled the ring but I didn't use copper spray so that might have been why it leaked. I will try it without the ring and some copper spray and see how well it works. Sounds like a good idea on hand pumping in oil to remove metal shavings plus the several oil changes. I just put my order in on my oil feed line and should be able to get it on monday or tuesday. I'll go ahead and put everything together and just wait for the line. As far as a boat is concerned if we met at Heber and everybody pitched in 30-40 bucks each we could get a barge. i think a days rental for a barge is around 250-300 plus fuel but I'm not 100% sure on the rental price.

I almost always have a leak if I don't use copper spray. I believe it may do with the condition of the surface of the turbo flange and the manifold flanges not agreeing on an even surface, but either way I've always sanded down each surface, applied a liberal amount of copper spray, torqued it down, and let it dry for a while before firing it up. Good results every time - and I've ran 32psi on such a setup and saw no leaks.

As for a boat, I don't think a group of gear heads like ourselves belong on a boat together. Haha. If we can get jet-skis.. now..
 
Pulled the head and too my surprise the cylinders still have the cross hatch in them. I think it was a fresh rebuild and was not even broke in when the car was wrecked

.
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