are my 1/4 miles times normal

[915GsT]

just want to see where i stand here, i went to the track with high hopes and left very disappointed.

97 gst (spyder)
mods include evo 9 injectors and fuel pump
apexi safc
k/n filter
fmic
aftermarket bov
kyb struts and eibach springs (2inch drop)
ngk bpr7s
new spark plug wires
a/f aem uego monitor
xs boost controller (set at 11 lbs but spikes momenteraly to 14 and then drops)
boost gauge
2 1/2 - 3" dp to 3" cat back (thermal exhaust)

now i did run with full interior and 17 inch rims, and like i mentioned at 11 lbs (still on t25) i spike for like a second to 14 but then it goes back down to 11.
i have it set there because the shop that tuned my car recommended i didnt push it too much on this turbo.

well i took it out to the the track and these are the results.

1/4 =16.1
total speed 86.87
60 foot was 2.564

am i doing something wrong here or are these times normal for the mods i have????

if someone can please clarify id appreciate it...

Thanks in advance !

 

[rock1t]

Practice on your 60's, try lowering your tire pressure to ~20-25psi
2.2s will put you solidly in the 15s.
Get a wideband, tune your a/fs to around 10.6-11:1 on pump, factory is very rich at ~9.5:1
Since you have a boost controller, try and get it to spike ~17-18psi and dropoff from there
As said don't expect much from the T2small, but 14s are certainly attainable with limited work.

don't lower your tire pressure. you are not running slicks, and you should be driving around the water box. you can chirp your tires while pulling up to the line, but when you run street tires, there is no need.

Practice on your 60's, try lowering your tire pressure to ~20-25psi
2.2s will put you solidly in the 15s.
Get a wideband, tune your a/fs to around 10.6-11:1 on pump, factory is very rich at ~9.5:1
Since you have a boost controller, try and get it to spike ~17-18psi and dropoff from there
As said don't expect much from the T2small, but 14s are certainly attainable with limited work.

don't lower your tire pressure. you are not running slicks, and you should be driving around the water box. you can chirp your tires while pulling up to the line, but when you run street tires, there is no need.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

don't lower your tire pressure. you are not running slicks, and you should be driving around the water box. you can chirp your tires while pulling up to the line, but when you run street tires, there is no need.



don't lower your tire pressure. you are not running slicks, and you should be driving around the water box. you can chirp your tires while pulling up to the line, but when you run street tires, there is no need.

Try lowering your tire pressure. No you are not using slicks. No you do not want to go into the water box. No you do not need to do a burnout. But lowering your tire pressure, even on street tires, can give you traction off the line which will help your 60', which will help your ET.

 

[daren_p]

Spyders were the heaviest model & when people are posting up times, remember he's fwd & that will play a large role. Yes, that time can be improved, alot of the time, the driver mod makes the biggest difference. I've seen guys with new 911 Turbo porsche's, which should run 11-12's no problem, click off 14-15 second passes.

Most important part of the track is that first 60ft, working on your launch will net you the biggest improvement. General rule is whatever you drop off your 60ft will double at the other end. So if you went 16.0 with a 2.5 60ft, the same car will run a 15.4 with a 2.2 60ft. With street tires & practice, 2.2-2.3 60ft's shouldn't be a problem.

Having better boost control & making sure the car's tuned descently will also make a nice improvement.

 

[rock1t]

Try lowering your tire pressure. No you are not using slicks. No you do not want to go into the water box. No you do not need to do a burnout. But lowering your tire pressure, even on street tires, can give you traction off the line which will help your 60', which will help your ET.

so you are saying full blown drag radial cars, go through the water box, do a big narly burnout, then launch with low tire pressure?

no.

when you watch drag radial cars go through the box, they are heating up their tires to get the pressure in them and also clean them off.

the more air in the tire, the more rubber is being put to the ground. you don't want to crawl through mud or sand here.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

so you are saying full blown drag radial cars, go through the water box, do a big narly burnout, then launch with low tire pressure?
no.

when you watch drag radial cars go through the box, they are heating up their tires to get the pressure in them and also clean them off.

the more air in the tire, the more rubber is being put to the ground. you don't want to crawl through mud or sand here.

Yes! Have you ever watched a drag car launch? The tires wrinkle and grab the pavement. Do you think that’s because they are full of air? No. They run very low pressure.

We are talking about regular street tires here but the same concept applies. The less pressure, the more grip and less spin.

I'm not saying to run 8 psi. Drop it down a little at a time. Say you run 32 psi on the street, lower it to 30 and see if you can improve you 60'. Then try 28 and so forth and so on. Make small changes in your tire pressure but keep everything else the same (launch rpm, shift points) so you can see how the pressure is effecting your time.

 

[Zdrummer15]

Yes! Have you ever watched a drag car launch? The tires wrinkle and grab the pavement. Do you think that’s because they are full of air? No. They run very low pressure.

We are talking about regular street tires here but the same concept applies. The less pressure, the more grip and less spin.

I'm not saying to run 8 psi. Drop it down a little at a time. Say you run 32 psi on the street, lower it to 30 and see if you can improve you 60'. Then try 28 and so forth and so on. Make small changes in your tire pressure but keep everything else the same (launch rpm, shift points) so you can see how the pressure is effecting your time.

I have to agree. If you lower your tire pressure a little bit, you should be able to hook better. Many people do this.

 

[fatalreaction]

Yes! Have you ever watched a drag car launch? The tires wrinkle and grab the pavement. Do you think that's because they are full of air? No. They run very low pressure.

We are talking about regular street tires here but the same concept applies. The less pressure, the more grip and less spin.

I'm not saying to run 8 psi. Drop it down a little at a time. Say you run 32 psi on the street, lower it to 30 and see if you can improve you 60'. Then try 28 and so forth and so on. Make small changes in your tire pressure but keep everything else the same (launch rpm, shift points) so you can see how the pressure is effecting your time.

agreed, Back in the day with polyglass tires they would air them up because the tires had unpredictable sidewalls and too hard of a compound. Today with Radial tires the sidewalls are a lot more uniform and the compounds are alot better. In reality you need to find a good compromise of pressure and traction. In my dads Camaro he would run about 20 PSI on the track and 30 on the street. The big thing is trial and error really, you can go through the water box n smoke em off if you want but chances are your just gonna trap water in your treads and lose traction, the added heat is nice ### it softens the tire a lil bit and gets solid traction but the water has the opposite effect.. best bet is going on a pretty warm day, Lowering your pressure a bit, im betting your best pressure will be at about 23 lbs... BUT definitely keep tryin different things...

 

[915GsT]

well i checked for vac leaks... since i got the car the vac has always been at about 12-14 around there.... should that be higher?

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Post a video of you racing so we can point out your faults and help you out brotha!

 

[jrohner]

the more air in the tire, the more rubber is being put to the ground.

backwards. Less air means the tires squat, meaning much more rubber on the ground. I ran 22/18 psi in my GSX last time. I'd probably start out with 25/40 in a FWD and go from there.

 

[toofast82]

don't lower your tire pressure. you are not running slicks, and you should be driving around the water box. you can chirp your tires while pulling up to the line, but when you run street tires, there is no need.
.

I've made some runs in the srt with varying tire pressure. Hit a 2.06 60' on around 19psi. Went around the water box and just pulled right up to the line, no pre-run tire spinning. 60's were all above 2.2 with anything above 25psi.
Anything lower than 18psi or so I think would have diminishing returns on the top end of the track.

My old Gs-T would "G-Tech" better times by at least .2sec with lower tire pressure.

Also when I had a 5.0 Mustang, dropping the pressure some on the street tires helped significantly as well at the track.

I choose to keep my burnout down to none or very little because I don't feel like buying tires frequently, so I haven't done extensive testing on those results, .

 

[blkgst97]

well i checked for vac leaks... since i got the car the vac has always been at about 12-14 around there.... should that be higher?

If you are sure you have no vacuum leaks, check to see your timing belt is off one tooth. That could cause a low reading.

 

[HareyCarey]

Lower tire pressure=more traction but it has a vice, it affects your top end. Fwd cars(from what I have seen)do better as far as overall time if they don't have a super aggressive launch. Let me be clear before someone tries to crucify me on this: If you launch at a decent rpm range and don't just slam the pedal down, you will have better traction with a fwd car. Don't baby it per se but ease into the throttle instead of just stabbing it wide open from the get. I think this is especially important in a fwd.

 

[toofast82]

Lower tire pressure=more traction but it has a vice, it affects your top end. Fwd cars(from what I have seen)do better as far as overall time if they don't have a super aggressive launch. Let me be clear before someone tries to crucify me on this: If you launch at a decent rpm range and don't just slam the pedal down, you will have better traction with a fwd car. Don't baby it per se but ease into the throttle instead of just stabbing it wide open from the get. I think this is especially important in a fwd.

I agree.
Watch 97% of the Honduh kids at the track and do the exact opposite

On street tires and fwd:
I pop the clutch at ~2500rpm, but keep my foot at the same position on the throttle. I let it come out of the dig a little, then there is a fine point of time that you then need to increase the throttle to make it work or not
Basically what you said and i've had the same success with similar approach on rwd v8s on street tires

 

[915GsT]

okay so could my idle issue be the cause of this? maybe indirectly related... when i hit boost after the spike i really dont loose it... then in again it is only set at 11 for that ### ass turbo... (no pun intended to the ### community... i dont have money for a lawyer...)

i will post a vid next time i record during the day, the vid i got is kinda dark, me against a mustang gt a new one... who i did beat... times said 16.3 for him and 16.1 for me....

i hate to take sides here but, i use to run g force drag radials and yes i felt and saw better results at 25 psi....

 

[rock1t]

I've made some runs in the srt with varying tire pressure. Hit a 2.06 60' on around 19psi. Went around the water box and just pulled right up to the line, no pre-run tire spinning. 60's were all above 2.2 with anything above 25psi.
Anything lower than 18psi or so I think would have diminishing returns on the top end of the track.

My old Gs-T would "G-Tech" better times by at least .2sec with lower tire pressure.

Also when I had a 5.0 Mustang, dropping the pressure some on the street tires helped significantly as well at the track.

I choose to keep my burnout down to none or very little because I don't feel like buying tires frequently, so I haven't done extensive testing on those results, .

umm.. to much alcohol for me and shouldn't be trying to give you tips for staying on a road course or auto cross.

 

[dsm-onster]

Not sure about how a FMIC has anything to do with reducing max performance with a t25. One of my dsms is a 5speed with a 13g, yes different wheels and covers; but damn near same flow/spool/response on both ends of the charger to a t25.

Builds 10 psi in a neutral free rev:
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Video demonstrating how quiet (restricted) the exhaust is and the size of the FMIC. Plus a good shot showing you that it is a td04 13g:

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No ball/spring MBC (known to aid spool), stock intake pipe:
<a href="http://s484.photobucket.com/albums/rr203/wheelhop_photos/1991%20Laser%20nt%20to%20turbo/?action=view&current=IMG_2037.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr203/wheelhop_photos/1991%20Laser%20nt%20to%20turbo/IMG_2037.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Point is that small turbos handle decent sized FMIC cores just fine. Spool speed is not different from my actual experience. In fact, free revving spool shows you there's no loss in spool with this setup; of which is nothing more than good restoration/maintenance, stock timing, stock 7.8CR, 2" hardpiping throughout WITH ZERO LEAKS (see good maintenance), stock down pipe, stock flywheel, stock intake pipe with STOCK AIR FILTER replacement (no k&n/wix/etc), 2.5" exhaust with a baffled muffler, and a semi-large FMIC (22" X 9" X 2.5" mishimoto core). I don't even have a ball/spring manual boost controller to keep the gate shut until my desired boost threshold is seen. Just nipple to actuator. It hit's just as hard as with the Sidemount. Peters off up top slightly less infact (likely from cooler charge from the higher speeds vs. a stock IC).

BTW, this car is a blast to drive. 1) Slightly smaller tire diameter w/ light 14" rims (good for lowering tire pressure at track time). 2) Fast spooling turbo. 3) Good larger intercooler to keep ACTs down with smooth transitions in the piping. 4) Stripper model (no power anything, no spare/jack). 5) Fwd. 6) N/t transmission: interesting/beneficial gear ratios with a small turbo setup (though not very durable, but I'm running stockish torque, and it's held just fine). This is what the fwd from the factory should have had. Give the bigger turbo to the awd cars with more weight drivetrain loss and premium 16" wheels.

 

[blackhawkgsx]

just want to see where i stand here, i went to the track with high hopes and left very disappointed.

97 gst (spyder)
mods include evo 9 injectors and fuel pump
apexi safc
k/n filter
fmic
aftermarket bov
kyb struts and eibach springs (2inch drop)
ngk bpr7s
new spark plug wires
a/f aem uego monitor
xs boost controller (set at 11 lbs but spikes momenteraly to 14 and then drops)
boost gauge
2 1/2 - 3" dp to 3" cat back (thermal exhaust)

now i did run with full interior and 17 inch rims, and like i mentioned at 11 lbs (still on t25) i spike for like a second to 14 but then it goes back down to 11.
i have it set there because the shop that tuned my car recommended i didnt push it too much on this turbo.

well i took it out to the the track and these are the results.

1/4 =16.1
total speed 86.87
60 foot was 2.564

am i doing something wrong here or are these times normal for the mods i have????

if someone can please clarify id appreciate it...

Thanks in advance !

Why are you using the bpr7s some one correct me if i am wrong but aren't they a step colder for higher boost? I would used the bpr6s in your case.And if you have those fuel mods the run more boost like 14-16 ish. when i had my t-25 i ran 14.6 until it gave up then moved to the 16g. but i had the smic,wally255,mbc,aem wideband, stock inj,3 " exhaust ...etc

 

[dsm-onster]

Yes. I went 13.4 with the 14b in a fwd with stock fuel/stock ic/225s/bpr6s/2.5" crushbent exhaust/15-16psi/logger.

The 6s are PLENTY for any turbo smaller than a 14b.