Anyone know where to find installation instructions to change shocks & springs?

[jrpmp69]

I just bought Tenzo 1.5" Lowering Springs and rear Tokico HP shocks to install on my 98 eclipse GST. I asked my mechanic how much he would charge and its way too much so I was wondering if anybody knows where i might get information on how to install these items properly on my car, so i can do it my self.
I would really appreciate your help.

 

[jtmcinder]

Shop manual ... Haynes manual ... common sense. It's really quite straight-forward.

All you need in terms of new tools is a set of spring compressors ... $20 at Sears. Count on about 30 minutes per corner.

- Jtoby

ps. are you really only upgrading the rear shocks?

 

[Big Bald]

Suspension is always fun...make sure you have some PB blaster readily available. The back consists of one bolt at the bottom and two at the top. The front are a pain in the ass and generally take longer. YOu will need a 14mm socket and open end wrech to get the sway bar off. Then there is a bolt holding the strut in place and one at the bottom...then undo the three at the top and you can remove the front assemblies. You are more then welcome to hit me up on AIM or shoot me a PM or E-mail with any further questions about this.

Jerrome

 

[jrpmp69]

I am only changing the rear shocks for now, but plan to do the front ones at a later time.
I know it probably is going to cost me more this way, but its the only way that i can do it for now.

Originally posted by jtmcinder
Shop manual ... Haynes manual ... common sense. It's really quite straight-forward.

All you need in terms of new tools is a set of spring compressors ... $20 at Sears. Count on about 30 minutes per corner.

- Jtoby

ps. are you really only upgrading the rear shocks?

 

[jtmcinder]

It wasn't a question of cost. It was understeer. When you drop a 2G by 1.5" on springs that aren't that much stiffer than stock, you end up all over your bumpstops (assuming halfway decent tires and/or bumps while cornering). This will cause severe understeer as the front spring rate effectively shoots up to near infinite. Understeer via no suspension travel in a wrong-wheel-drive car is awful. Just awful.

So the issue to me was low-damping front shocks that are quite long combined with softish springs that drop the car 1.5". It's going to handle very poorly. You want to spend money on the front end of the car, not the rear. The rear end of a WWD DSM is just there to keep the tailpipe off the pavement.

- Jtoby

 

[jrpmp69]

I see what your saying now, i would have liked to replace those also, but i was short on cash and my car seems to jump to the side from the rear when i hit a bump so i thought maybe one of my shocks was bad. If i do decide to put on the springs with the original shocks, what do you recommend that i do to avoid all these problems you mentioned? I saw a tech forum explaining how to cut the bump stops to make them work with the stock shock absorbers when lowering the car.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[jtmcinder]

Cutting down the bumpstops delays the problem, but can make it even harder to drive the car. Yes, the spring rates won't start to increase as soon, because you'll be able to roll and bump a bit more before you hit the bumpstops, but when you do hit them, it'll be a nastier shock. The upshot is that you can be mid-corner and all is cool and you're starting to feed in the power when, suddenly, you hit a small road imperfection and the outside front bottoms out and you plough right off the road. In some ways, a car that gives no warning before going off is much worse than a car that consistently handles a little less well.

If you've not yet installed anything, I'd serious consider waiting until you have the money to buy a set of Konis for the front. I don't know if they make Reds for 2Gs, but look for those (instead of the Yellows), because they would better match your Tokikos in the rear. Should be $200 - $250 for the pair. Then install it all at the same time.

The other name for Reds is Specials; the other name for Yellows is Sports. Specials are not adjustable; Sports have rebound adjustment.

- Jtoby

 

[jrpmp69]

Before i purchased the springs, i asked the seller if i would need to replace my shock absorber when installing them on my car and he said that it was not neccesary, but would recommend it, that is why i didnt plan on changing my shocks. But now i see all the problems that come along with that. Do you think i can get the other two Tokico springs instead on the Kini, they seem to cost a lot less. I only paid $138 for the rear shocks, but i could have gotten the whole set for $230.
What would hppen if i just put on the rear springs and shocks? do you think it would look kinda wierd with just the back end lowered?
I really wanted to lower my car today becuase Midnight Mahem is Friday at the track and i wanted to run my car and maybe put it in the show section.

Originally posted by jtmcinder
Cutting down the bumpstops delays the problem, but can make it even harder to drive the car. Yes, the spring rates won't start to increase as soon, because you'll be able to roll and bump a bit more before you hit the bumpstops, but when you do hit them, it'll be a nastier shock. The upshot is that you can be mid-corner and all is cool and you're starting to feed in the power when, suddenly, you hit a small road imperfection and the outside front bottoms out and you plough right off the road. In some ways, a car that gives no warning before going off is much worse than a car that consistently handles a little less well.

If you've not yet installed anything, I'd serious consider waiting until you have the money to buy a set of Konis for the front. I don't know if they make Reds for 2Gs, but look for those (instead of the Yellows), because they would better match your Tokikos in the rear. Should be $200 - $250 for the pair. Then install it all at the same time.

The other name for Reds is Specials; the other name for Yellows is Sports. Specials are not adjustable; Sports have rebound adjustment.

- Jtoby

 

[jtmcinder]

Do not do half of the car. Especially if you're going to a show.

Yes, I suppose you can get Tokikos for the front, but they are as
long as stock, so that isn't going to solve the problem. If show is more important than go, then fine, but the first time you take corner near the limit, be alert.

Konis are worth it, though. Do it right. Do it (only) once.

- Jtoby

 

[jrpmp69]

I'm more into the speed than the show, i just thought i would park my car in the show area while i let it rest for a while and while i watched some other people race. I will definitely check out the Koni's to see where i can get the best deal from. Would a shorter shock be neccessary for the track, i dont hink there is anywhere on the track where you can tank the shocks, is there?
Well, anyways, thank you so much for your help, i really appreciate it.
If you see the Koni's anywhere for a good price, let me know.

Originally posted by jtmcinder
Do not do half of the car. Especially if you're going to a show.

Yes, I suppose you can get Tokikos for the front, but they are as
long as stock, so that isn't going to solve the problem. If show is more important than go, then fine, but the first time you take corner near the limit, be alert.

Konis are worth it, though. Do it right. Do it (only) once.

- Jtoby

 

[Colossus]

For the front:

Step 1: Jack Car up. (Place jack stands under for safety.)

Step 2: Remove Tire

Step 3: Unbolt strut tower bolts in engine bay. 3 per side.

Step 4: Remove upper A-Arm, two bolts inside engine bay. One on either side of strut tower and 1 bolt connected to the upper ball joint.

Step 5: Compress Spring

Step 6: Unbolt torsion bar link.

Step 7: Unbolt Y-Bracket. The strut is bolted to, and sits in this bracket. The bracket is also bolted to the car at the end of the Y.

Step 8: Remove upper plate and rubber gasket from top of spring.

Step 9: Pull assembly towards outside of car and remove strut+spring.

Step 10: Remove Y-Bracket from the strut.


Bolt your Y-Bracket onto the new strut tower, or replace new spring onto strut.
Reinstall in reverse order.