anyone have problems with aem boost gauge???

[lasershark]

before I talk to AEM I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their uego boost gauge not functioning properly.

It doesn't read anything past 6-7 psi

It reads vacuum and when the turbo starts to spool it just stays at 0 for a bit then starts to move and stops climbing, teetering back and forth between 6-7 psi

I bought it brand new, its hooked up to FPR line properly with only 4 or 5 inches of vacuum line, no boost leaks, and running just wastegate pressure with no bcs.

turbo is fine no shaft play, have vrsf front mount

I know this doesn't mean anything since they suck but even the stock "boost meter" climbs steadily and smooth stopping right around "10 psi"

just wondering if its common to get a bad luck gauge that doesn't work

 

[Soccerguy136]

If you are not running a boost controller, it's possible that you are only boosting 6-7psi. The stock gauge doesn't measure boost, it just makes a calculation so it's relatively inaccurate.

If the vacuum readings are fine and are responding normally then the gauge is probably not broken.

Normally when the AEM gauges stop working, the needing just pretty much stops moving period.

 

[lasershark]

Ok thanks man I'm glad didn't wanna have to deal with all that warranty stuff. I just thought they were gated at 10psi so I figured it should read at least 9-10 psi, and it's the digital gauge by the way.

I know the stock "boost meter" sucks and is inaccurate. and also guesses the approximate boost by gathering info from a few different sensors.

thanks for the feedback, now I'm kinda glad that AEM hasn't gotten back to me

 

[Soccerguy136]

Happy to help.

I have not dealt with the electronic gauges before, but I would still be surprised if it's working normally but just doesn't read past 7 psi. Doesn't seem likely.

Where you have the gauge tapped into can also affect readings.

Don't ever T into the BOV line. The best and most accurate spot according to most, is off the FPR or FPR solenoid line. Some people T into the P port on the Throttle body, but that tends to read lower than the FPR lines.

Vaccum leaks can also lower the boost.

Hope this helps.

 

[curt-s]

I wonder what's so special about the P port that it has less vacuum than any other port. It's the same distance from the vacuum source as any other port, and doesn't branch off to wierd places and run a mile long to lessen the suck. Can anybody confirm this?

Yes, if you have no method of boost control and are running into the wastegate actuator directly off the compressor outlet, then around 7psi can very well be what you get. Every actuator is different, and as springs get old, they lose their firmness and can open earlier. You might even have a itty bitty hole in the diaphragm, who knows. My actuator is hella old, opens around 7psi.

 

[Soccerguy136]

It does see boost/vaccum, but keep in mind that:

1: It's off the throttle body so it is technically a secondary source that may or may not be less accurate than something plugged directly into a primary source (the intake manifold)

2: The opening (entrance) for the port at the throttle body is extremely small. Also, sometimes the Throttle Body gasket is blocking or impeding flow and you wouldn't realize it until you take the TB off.

Some people do use it for their gauges. I am not disputing that. I just feel more comfortable using the intake manifold for any/all boost readings.

When I first bought the car, the PO had used the P port. I personally saw 1-2psi less boost and 1-2in/hg less vaccum (approximate differences as it's been a while) when using that port before I began using the FPR line. The gauge also reacted slower when using the P port as well. Just my personal experience with it.

 

[curt-s]

Yeah, that's how I do it as well. Hmm, I may just be underestimating the pressure drop. Slower reaction, sure, I can definitely see that. I wouldn't anywhere near expect that much of a drop, as I wouldn't have that much of a drop in 3ft of tubing vs 2ft.

 

[Soccerguy136]

It could have also be that when you use the P port you have to loop the line back around to the driver side, where as when you use the FPR lines, it is basically a straight shot?

Perhaps that could account for the differences?

My TB gasket also could have been blocking the port. I didn't really pay attention the last time I removed the gasket.