Anyone considered changing out clutch/brake pedal assemblies?

[Ludachris]

With the clutch pedal assembly being as difficult as it is to get to under the dash I started wondering if it wouldn't be better to swap out the whole clutch/brake pedal assembly for something better. When I was at SEMA this last year I found a couple options from Tilton:

http://tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=9&m=b

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http://tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=8&m=b#

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Tilton also has hanging versions of these setups but after looking under the dash it appears that the steering column would get in the way:
http://tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=4&m=b

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The coolest part of any of these units is that the brake pedal will have 2 reservoirs for front/rear brake balance. You can change this brake balance in the car with the turn of a knob while on the track. You can also mount the reservoirs anywhere you want for accessibility.

What do you guys think in terms of functionality? Would it be worth exploring? It just seems to me that it would be a major improvement upon the stock setup. Of course, it all depends on price, but even if it's expensive it would be nice to know it's an option.

 

[Elvenhome21]

I am going to be doing that to my GSX in the next couple weeks. The top 2 sets of pedals can be floor mounted or hanging (you just unbolt the master and flip it). Personally I have dealt with both style in a race car. I prefer hanging brake/clutch with a floor swing throttle pedal. Plus wilwood make the "hanging" style a 7:1 ratio instead of 6:1 like the floor, but they do interchange.

Depending on how much room is on the other side of the firewall I might go with the bottom style so the engine compartment has as much room as possible.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/17_Race-Brake-Pedals.html

And yes the benefits of a aftermarket masters are tremendous with being able to adjust bias with the turn of a knob.

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[mavisky]

I've looked into it before, but never got around to doing anything about it.

 

[Ludachris]

I would rather do a hanging pedal as well but there doesn't appear to be enough room with the steering column right where it would be mounted. Have you looked under the dash to see how it would mount Jason?

 

[Phil1320]

Guys--I have some friends up here that are into road racing hardcore and do have tilton pedal set-ups in WRX's, EVO's, and even in some old school sport compacts. These are Extreme set-ups though with driver seat moved back, extended steering columns and such. If you guys do any fancy footwork it's great set up, but, if your brakes are working fine and you can do what you need to I wouldn't bother. How hardcore are you I guess is the question....


Phil1320

 

[RusherRacing]

Well i am going to go against the grain here and say i prefer the floor mounted pedals. I if I have an option I choose the one that will ultimatily provide the lower CG. I would also build in a heal stop into a custom mounting plate. I believe I have some pictures on my laptop at home. If I get a chance tonight I will post them up.

What is the reason for the change? More volume? Diameter? Stroke?

So we can help give recommendations.

Chris have you thought about just changing to a 3000gt VR4 master cylinder?

Works great with my TCE setup.

 

[Ludachris]

My reasoning for looking into this is to have an overall better setup for track events. The factory clutch pedal assembly design seems to be pretty bad. It's difficult to get to for maintenance. We all know it needs to be welded so it doesn't wear out over time. I'd like to have brake bias adjustment. The parts from the factory aren't as high quality as the Tilton parts I'm sure. Basically, I would like to use a system that is used widely in racing.

Here's my thinking - we see people doing crazy things to achieve fast E/T's all the time in the DSM world, especially when it comes to turbo setups. Why not try something different with a pedal assembly? It doesn't look like it would be that tough and I don't think it's outrageously expensive. Maybe it won't be a popular mod but it would be nice to know that it's available for those who want to do it. I'm always looking to improve my car all around. I think that my brake system should receive as much attention as my turbo setup and my engine.

 

[RusherRacing]

I think that my brake system should receive as much attention as my turbo setup and my engine.

I agree! The biggest benefit I see is having the front and rear brakes on separate hydraulic systems. Also by changing the master cylinders you can change the pedal feel.

Also I couldn't find those pictures of the brake assembly on my laptop. I might have to dig through my old CD's, and also get the calculations.

 

[RusherRacing]

Most of the time I find that others have better writeups than I could have written myself so here is a wonderful and very indepth article on master cylinders.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/PedalSetup-DualMaster-Guide.pdf

 

[Flash]

I want to bring this thread back from the dead. I was interested in the installation procedure for the Tilton floor mount pedals in terms of going into a street car. The instructions out there are for a race car that doesn't have all the crap that comes on a street car. So I'm wondering what to do with going from 1 master cylinder + brake booster to 2 master cylinders for the front and rear. Also, how do you determine the size of the master cylinder for the clutch? Will I have to bend new brake lines under the car and remove the stock proportioning value and delete everything I had for my ABS and stock brakes in general?
BTW, what would pedal feel like without the brake booster but with dual master cylinders?

 

[Ludachris]

I want to bring this thread back from the dead. I was interested in the installation procedure for the Tilton floor mount pedals in terms of going into a street car. The instructions out there are for a race car that doesn't have all the crap that comes on a street car. So I'm wondering what to do with going from 1 master cylinder + brake booster to 2 master cylinders for the front and rear. Also, how do you determine the size of the master cylinder for the clutch? Will I have to bend new brake lines under the car and remove the stock proportioning value and delete everything I had for my ABS and stock brakes in general?
BTW, what would pedal feel like without the brake booster but with dual master cylinders?

I believe you'd have to delete the factory ABS and proportioning valve. Not sure how the pedal would feel, but I don't think it would be all that much different so long as you got the right size master cylinder(s). I want to say that Tilton has an equation to help you figure out what you'd need. I'm thinking you'd have to run "some" new lines, but probably not all of them. Though it would be nice to run all new lines.

 

[Flash]

I had Brent grab me a stock proportioning valve and cut off some brake hard line fittings at a junk yard so I can determine the type of fitting I need. Goodridge has a huge section of fittings that will work with OEM hard lines, it's just a matter of finding the right one.
I have noticed a lot of race cars will run SS braided lines in the cabin to the pedal. So that makes some things a little easier if I determine I have to get pedals.

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[underradar92]

FWIW, Grant, if you are making new lines, parts store 3/16 brake tubing fits in the stock 10mm threaded fittings.

Which also means you can use stock fittings on one end and inch sized ferrules on the MC ends, no adapting is neccesary.