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Any DSM'ers around the Lake County area in Illinois....

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And 1 quick pic of the Races Saturday Night
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Just put em on now, try it again... I have more, give me a sec.
 

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hurry up and put them up... sucks we missed it... when we all going to greatlakes........
 
eclouston said:
Heres the thing I havent done any adjustments to the turbo it is all still set to stock, no boost adjustment valve nothing.
Stock exhaust too so theirs plenty of back pressure, should not have any kind of boost creep.

The thing I am not really sure about is the arm on the wastegate actuator is adjustable and has a nut on it with the arm being threaded.

I am also thinking it may be from the low vacuum Jason mentioned. It didn't go above 13 psi at an idle.

The reason why it seems like fuel cut maybe my afpr didnt raise the pressure in the fuel rail, not to mention the nut on top wasn't tight on the o-ring.

I am going to make a boost leak tester tommarow after work. Wouldn't mind a link to a how to on that either .

So how is the wastegate actuator hooked up if you don't have either the BCS or a MBC?
Is there a hose directly from the J-pipe to the actuator?

If the arm in the actuator is adjustable that will give you some control over where it opens but it should be consistant.

I don't follow the vacuum part. Normal vacuum at idle is about 18 in hg vacuum which is about -8.8 psi but none of the gauges typically read in psi on the vacuum side.

You can check the AFPR by applying pressure yourself to the reference port nipple and watch the fuel pressure change while the pump is running.

Boost leak tester: (I used a quick connect for my compressor rather than a valve stem. That makes it easier to do one person testing but harder to see how well it holds pressure)

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

and the first part of this talks about leak testing

http://www.ca.dsm.org/faq/tb-shaftseals.html

Steve
 
steve said:
So how is the wastegate actuator hooked up if you don't have either the BCS or a MBC?
Is there a hose directly from the J-pipe to the actuator?

If the arm in the actuator is adjustable that will give you some control over where it opens but it should be consistant.

I don't follow the vacuum part. Normal vacuum at idle is about 18 in hg vacuum which is about -8.8 psi but none of the gauges typically read in psi on the vacuum side.

You can check the AFPR by applying pressure yourself to the reference port nipple and watch the fuel pressure change while the pump is running.

Boost leak tester: (I used a quick connect for my compressor rather than a valve stem. That makes it easier to do one person testing but harder to see how well it holds pressure)

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

and the first part of this talks about leak testing

http://www.ca.dsm.org/faq/tb-shaftseals.html

Steve

He has his BCS still, its all stock under his hood except for the bolt ons, no MBC, and I believe his vacuum when the motor was warm was around 15.
 
DANG! Who's sexy ass car is this?

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And I swear that guy in the maroon polo with the black 2g should be makin pornos (the straight kind)...or at least some kind of movies
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LOL ya funny...btw your car is really all show and no go, its slow as hell.....:sneaky: ;)
 
My car is done now... pain in the you know what to size up the new belts.... runs good now... got the safc hooked back up now I just need to tune it.... So when r we all going to the track... and when is the bbq and stuff........ chop chop slacker:)
 
robs90tsi said:
He has his BCS still, its all stock under his hood except for the bolt ons, no MBC, and I believe his vacuum when the motor was warm was around 15.

Untill the system is pressure tested it's hard to say what's going on. Too many possibilities.
Normally 15 in hg vacuum at idle would be a bad thing on a car with stock cams.

Steve
 
steve said:
Untill the system is pressure tested it's hard to say what's going on. Too many possibilities.
Normally 15 in hg vacuum at idle would be a bad thing on a car with stock cams.

Steve

Right. ... that's about where mine is at on 272's.

Pressure testing should be the first thing done on Eric's car. The car seems like it has never been touched...and by that I mean it's clean.:thumb:


rksudrick said:
So when r we all going to the track... and when is the bbq and stuff........ chop chop slacker:)

When I can get a car as fast as yours.:sneaky:

BBQ? Sure! WHEN? WHERE?

I can set something, but I'm not sure how everyones schedule is.
 
as long as there is a little notice I'm sure we can get a good turn out.... I was thinking a forest preserve somewhere...... I'll you in the next day or so and we'll figure something out...
 
Ha, -15hg is a bad idle vacuum? Damn, at 700-750rpm at idle I'm at about -10hg...Jeez

Wow, I didn't realize you guys were doing the rediculous group dsm + owner photos...Shiiitt, I miss everything...Seriously, you guys just left when I got there...

Nice pics, hopefully we can all get together soon; again...I have a vid downloading right now at Streetfire.net I can link to you guys once it's done...Just a edit of some small footage cruising around throughout Saturday...
 
What happened to Jingx284 (Jason)????????? What did he do wrong, it takes something pretty bad to get banned completely, can someone fill us in???????
 
hey, look what jason made for me:thumb: He was hoping to have them done in time for speedquest, but oh well. You'll see it our cars at the next meet.

PS DONT COPY COPYCATS!..You know who you are.

EAT SLEEP DSM :rocks:

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Man that does kinda suck about Jason Maybe a modrataor can fill us in??.. He is always very helpful for me I cant realy see a reason for him being baned.

Anyways heres the deal again on my car.. I did a boost leek test and the stock inter cooler is pissing out air prety good at like 20 psi and doesnt start autable leaking till about 10 psi. The vacume I have at an idle is about 13 hg. Not real sure what that suposed to be. But nether of thes seem to be my real issue the car still boosts like crazy up to 20 psi then I get fuel cut or knock or both. I did use steves sugestion about runing a vacume line from the turbo out strait to the waste gate acuator with the same result as befor.. I also adjusted the arm on the acuator to the wastegat so teir was almost no tension holding the wastegate shut with the same result as befor.. Then I put fix a flat in the valve stem of my boost leak tester and all my proublems went away.. Fyi last sentence is a a joke..I still have these proublems..
 
It's not clear where your stock intercooler is leaking from. It's real common for them to leak from corrosion in the aluminum piping where the stock hoses clamp. Road salt attacks aluminum. If that's the case real welding is the best repair but JB Weld works in a pinch.
Until the boost leaks are gone you can't start tuning the car, so asking about A/F ratios isn't going to help.

I don't understand why the boost is going so high but with the intake leaking it just going to make the problem worse.

Steve
 
Sounds like time for some hard piping to the i/c ;)...2.5"...mmmm

You are running an evoIII 16g, the most notorious creeping turbo's of all...Are you sure you aren't getting "boost creep" instead of "boost spiking'
 
This was just a thought but could the stock exhaust have so much back pressure that the wastegate wouldnt open causing me to have this boost proublem..Its kinda crapy outside otherwise I would have checked this ..I allready have cut out the section of flex in my down pipe becouse it was leaking and I wanted to see if the exhaust wasnt part of my proublem when it turned out to be my ecu..but I repaired the cut out section with a peice of flex pipe that I could prety easly remove to allow the 2 inch down pipe to flow without the cat and muffler.
 
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