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that i cant, tickets were nearly impossible to get this year... actually for anyone who wants to go next year, there is a slight trick you can do... you are able to volunteer some of your time, and get full access to comic con for free...
 
No, the blood drive thing is seperate... its usually like helping booths and minimalistic things like keeping order and such, nothing really taxing, and then you get the rest of your time off at the event

but the blood drive is still there, i'll be giving blood this year
 
Everyone that knows about SD can't wait to make the switch until its done and then they can't figure out how to tune their car, myself included when I first went SD. Bryan, I think you had SD before if I'm not mistaken, but even so it would be a good idea for both of you to dig around ECMLink Wiki and make sure you feel comfortable making the switch. Its a lot different then tuning a MAF because there is so much more resolution to the tune. Below is some RR, if you haven't read it yet.
Have fun at ComiCon, I'm not a fan of any of that stuff but it would still be cool to make it out there. Maybe next year... Nice "patriotic" picture there Chris, who took it? ;)

:dsm:
 
i already made the switch, just havnt had time to get the IAT in, and yes i had a Megasquirt in my GT, so ive got the hang of playing with speedy density. it takes a carefull eye to be able to catch some things with this stuff.

on a cold night i had the AFR's leaned out to 11.1:1 ( stay a little rich untill i get the IAT in ) at 16 psi.

the fuel trims are a little wacked out at the low point but the mid and high are around -2%

only thing i really havnt figured out is, under SD do the fuel sliders modify final calcs also or do they become ignored ( IE: read only from VE table )

and for cruising/idle AFR's is that the Max/min oct map just for Target AFR's or what?

its fairly easy to tune these cars with SD, just drive around with it in locked open loop and start whittling away at the cells to get the afr's near correct( easy to do when you have a friend driving the car in different gears on the highway/streets while i tune )

the above doesnt really apply for idle. imo that is easiest to let the ecu take care of it in closed loop while you adjust the cells to get the fuel trims as close to 0 as possible
 
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Yeah, its a pretty cool patriotic picture, should say made in america next to it, the one who took it was this guy I know who helps me out from time to time, pretty cool guy I think
 
gufi said:
only thing i really havnt figured out is, under SD do the fuel sliders modify final calcs also or do they become ignored ( IE: read only from VE table )

and for cruising/idle AFR's is that the Max/min oct map just for Target AFR's or what?
Click to expand...
The fuel sliders will modify final AFR's in open loop at that given RPM, it has nothing to do with the load. If you subtract -2% across the board then you'll lean out the entire RPM band rather than at a given RPM/Load on a OLMaxOct map. The idea of getting your VE map tuned to perfection is so you only have to make changes to your OLMaxOct map to tune AFR's. Basically, you put a banana in and you get a banana out whereas if your VE map is all fvcked up you put a banana in and you get a apple back. If your SD VE map is tuned correctly whatever AFR you type in in your OLMaxOct map is what you'll see on your WB at WOT.

For cruising/idle AFR's neither the OLMax/MinOct maps are used, unless of course you get locked in open loop. Some, even I've been considering it, just lock their ECU in open loop and forget about the narrowband altogether.

:dsm:
 
I just love learning new things about these cars, they are always hiding some in the background that make you go :hmm:
 
corey:shhh: your giving away my secrets to success. you are killing me as if it wasnt public enough you got to go and post it out in the open in numerous places.:notgood:
 
did some reading and asked some questions... it looks like i need to seriously revamp my max oct map to match up with e-85 and how it likes to play.

seems link uses a odd implementation so that its backward compatable with maf and SD at the same time instead of just flat out switching over.
 
bryan I sent you a few cheat sheets to help with your switch over they are the methods I use when tuning my car and many other cars. it will help you if you understand excel.
 
Just got back from lunch, he should be happy to see this

got his bung welded for 20 bucks today, but decided to get it welded upside down on accident... damn good welds though - You win some, and you lose some
 
Can anybody help me out with some cooling problems? I'm finishing up putting the car back together and the radiator fan decides not to kick on and causes the car to overheat.

Is there any way to test the fan (and it's connections) besides getting the car hot? Thermostat has been replaced.

Also what's the proper way to drain the coolant?
 
Visual or with a multimeter? The radiator fan and power window fuse, IIRC, are both 30A fuses. If your power windows work pop out that fuse and put it in place of the power window fuse, see if they still work. You can also turn on your A/C full blast and see if the driver side fan kicks on, as it should since its the A/C fan.

If the A/C (driver side) fan works and the passenger side fan never kicks on at 210* (when it should) then more than likely that fan for whatever reason went bad. I have a hard time believing that BOTH fans just up and went though, thats why I still think its your 30A fuse. Stranger things have happened...

:dsm:
 
like a possible gummy bear under my passenger seat keeping it from staying put under hard pulls and brake
 
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