Anti-lock light and no cruise control

[jimmybosox]

OK, so after 4+ months with the car just sitting, the 6 bolt swap is done. Ever since then, the anti-lock light has been on and the cruise control turns on but won't engage.

Three shops (including the Chrysler dealer, no Mitsu dealer nearby) have plugged into the system with their computers, but cannot access that system to diagnose the problem. The Chrysler dealer even suggested that the wires had been cut.

Called the shop that built the new motor (Showdown Motorsports in OH) and the guy says the 6 bolt swap would not be the cause. He said that a separate computer controls the anti-lock braking system and suggested that I get a new one from a junk yard and swap it out.

Does this sound right to anyone?

Any other ideas to try?

If I do need to replace the computer that controls the ABS, what is it called? Where do I get one? Are they interchangeable between 1G and 2G or do I need one specific to 1997?

Thanks in advance.

 

[poonman]

ok here you go, also just try to change the ABS Relay first.

 

[jimmybosox]

Thank you for those diagrams. They look like they can be very helpful. Gonna take me awhile to decipher them, but it's a start. Thanks again.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

You do have a cruise box and cruise cable right?

There are vac lines on the cruise control box, make sure they are not ripped. I had a situation with a DSM where cruise would turn on (light), but not work, it was a simple fix, the vac line was ripped.

 

[jimmybosox]

OK, two shops, one of them being the Chrysler dealer, have hooked up their computers and cannot access the ABS system to diagnose the problem.

The shop it is at now wants to pull the ECU for testing and then possible rebuild/replacement. The testing alone is $185.

When I heard this, I contacted Jeff at dsmchips and gave him the lowdown. He feels that it is unlikely that the ecu is the problem. According to most people here, Jeff is an expert on the ecu for our cars, so I believe him. He thinks that it's probably the transmission speed sensor. Either that sensor is broken or the connection is bad. He thinks that would knock out both the ABS and the cruise control.

Just looking for confirmation from anyone here who may have had this problem before. I've called the shop (on vacation for 10 days, go figure) and left a message for them not to go forward with any ecu work.

The anti-lock light was on and the cruise didn't work when I picked up the car after I had the 6 bolt swap completed with a new clutch installed. I read in the forums that the speed sensor can get knocked out during clutch work (or that the mechanic could forget to hook it back up).

I guess, maybe I'm just finding it hard to believe that the shop that installed the new motor and clutch wouldn't know to double check the speed sensor, especially since they knew about the anti-lock light and the fact that the cruise wouldn't work.

Anybody want to chime in?

 

[jimmybosox]

I got a used ABS ECU from mitsubishigraveyard.com and had it installed. Anti-lock light is still on. The shop said that their diagnostic computer still cannot communicate with the ABS system. I read a thread yesterday that said that the ABS ECUs were changed from Bosch to Nippondenso at some point during production of the 97s and that the two types may not be interchangeable. Wish I would have read that earlier. The original ABS ECU for my car is a Nippondenso. I don't recall what type the replacement was. I have another ABS ECU coming from mitsubishigraveyard.com now. I'm hoping it's a Nippondenso so I don't have to call Gary again and request a 3rd one.

Anyway, before I swapped out the ABS ECU again, I was hoping to find the connectors for the wheel speed sensors. I want to disconnect them, clean them and re-connect. The shop said they tested all the sensors and had identified the ECU as the issue, but I want to be sure. Can anyone tell me where the connectors are located? My Chilton Manual shows the wires snaking up from the wheels, but doesn't show where the connectors are. I could eventually jack the car up and follow the wires from the wheel up to find the connectors, but if someone knows already where I can find them, I would appreciate it.

I guess my next course of action is to have the transmission speed sensor replaced. As suggested previously. Anybody know the part number for that or where I can get a replacement? Next would be to replace the wheel speed sensors I guess. Again, any part numbers or replacement vendors would be appreciated.

 

[jimmybosox]

To add to this story (a bit off topic, but bear with), since I got the car back, I have occasionally had trouble starting it. Driving me nuts since there's no rhyme or reason to it.

One time I had just driven it for an hour and shut it off for 15 minutes to drop a friend off at home and when I came back out, it wouldn't start. 1 other time I drove it to the mall for lunch and when I came out, it wouldn't start. My friend was looking under the hood while I tried cranking it. I finally gave up and he shut the hood...then...viola, it starts just fine. I must have had a brain freeze at the time because I didn't think until today that it could be an electrical short. The fact that the dropping/shutting of the hood solved the problem should have been a clue, but I'm dense.

Anyway, I get a new set of Accel Thundersport 300+ wires today (clearance at Checker $19.99 who-hoo) and new NGK BPR7ES plugs to install. When I removed the plug well cover I see what looks like evidence of arcing on the underside (see pics below...my cover is powdercoated black). I didn't see anyplace on the old plug wires where the rubber was worn or any exposed metal. The wires can't arc right through the jacket can they?

I also discovered that the shop replaced my original NGK BPR7ES's with Autolite 63's gapped to .035 instead of between .028-.031. They had told me when I picked up the car that they replaced the plugs because mine had fouled due to several starts without getting up to full operating temp. I never thought that they'd replace them with something else...and gap them wrong. Looks like I won't be hitting that shop again.

 

[Spades]

One time I had just driven it for an hour and shut it off for 15 minutes to drop a friend off at home and when I came back out, it wouldn't start. 1 other time I drove it to the mall for lunch and when I came out, it wouldn't start. My friend was looking under the hood while I tried cranking it. I finally gave up and he shut the hood...then...viola, it starts just fine. I must have had a brain freeze at the time because I didn't think until today that it could be an electrical short. The fact that the dropping/shutting of the hood solved the problem should have been a clue, but I'm dense.

Since you just swapped the engine, check if you have a fuel leak at the inlet and outlet joints of the fuel rail, also check the injector Orings to the fuel rail

 

[jimmybosox]

You do have a cruise box and cruise cable right?

There are vac lines on the cruise control box, make sure they are not ripped. I had a situation with a DSM where cruise would turn on (light), but not work, it was a simple fix, the vac line was ripped.

Where are the vac lines for the cruise control system? The crusie control box mounted to the firewall looks like it has 2 cables coming from it, but I don't see anyplace for vac lines.

How many vac lines are there supposed to be? Where do they run to/from?

 

[Artago]

My ABS light came on just before my transfer case locked up. CHECK YOUR transfer case oil level JUST TO BE SURE. Just my 2 cents.