The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Another leaking turbo but this one is NEW!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

r6speed

20+ Year Contributor
267
9
Feb 1, 2006
Eugene, Oregon
Some of you might remember a while back I put on a new 16G and had some help from you guys. My last problem was oil leaking onto the downpipe and smoking like crazy. I saw some oil by the oil return line going into the oil pan and jumped to the conclusion that was it so now about a month later I finally got the gasket and changed it out. Its not leaking at all but something was still leaking! So I got to looking more and sure enough its coming out of the turbo right where it seals with the clamp from compressor housing. The turbo is brand new yes its a POS turbo from ebay and I know I'm about to get a lot of crap for that but I have never even taken a turbo apart...can I replace that gasket? Should I try to tighten the clamp around it? Should I stop using full synthetic and try some normal oil and see if the thick oil stops the leak? I got lots of ideas and don't know which way to go but I can tell you I'm sick of dumping out brand new oil this was the 5th time I dumped 4 quarts of synthetic oil! Getting spendy here, thanks in advance for the help
 
save your money and buy a real turbo... problem solved. seriously tho. its worth it.

some ppl are lucky with these turbos.. some are not.. i was a lucky one and got a hell of a lot outta my ebay turbo. now i saved the money to buy REAL turbos. it is worth it not having to worry when crap like that is gonna happen.
 
I figured I would get some grief over that however the advice I am looking for is is this seal replacable and if so where do I get one. I know the "real" turbos are better but this car has been sitting only started once a month for almost 2 years now, everything else is done this is the final step, the car still has 45K miles on it, and I WANT TO DRIVE IT! But I'm out of money I can't afford a "real" one. Also is a "real" one going to bolt up to the way its setup now? Is everything the same size and in the same location? Thanks again

EDIT: No shaft play at all
 
I figured I would get some grief over that however the advice I am looking for is is this seal replacable and if so where do I get one.

They aren't suggesting to buy a better turbo to give you grief. :)

The fact is that if you replace the seal (rebuild the turbo), it may run for 5 minutes and it may run for 2 years. If you want to risk it, go for it. But since you say it's the "final step" and the car only has 45k on it, why risk that on a POS turbo that's already failed once?

You can find a decent used MHI 16g or similar turbo for probably not much more (if any) than you'll spend to repair the ebay one you have.
 
Alright, in a thread a long long time ago when the first gt turbos were falling apart I could of swore I saw that these CHRAs used garrett style components and not mitsubishi... I could of dreamed it or I could be right, but either way it was a long time ago so take the info with a grain of salt. On the other hand you may want to look into your oil pressure being the culprit as you wouldn't want to blow a "real" turbo if your current problem isn't just a turbo failure.
 
You might have a lot of crank case pressure.

What is your motor's compression? (Just to quickly rule that out)

I'm only saying that because even if you have a new turbo, if you have high crankcase pressure, oil will still be blown out of new seals.
 
Well the compression I think was 150 or real close as for blowing the seal that could be a possibility because when I first hooked it up i used #4 braided line just started the car didn't drive it, then I was told if I use 4 with a mitsubishi it will pop the seal as soon as you start it, but I didn't think that happened cause I never spooled the turbo really and I quickly reduced it down to a 3 line right before it goes into the turbo to make sure it didn't do that. Do you think that starting it with a 4 line would really do that though? I'm in high hopes that the SSautochrome ebay store I bought it from with just exchange it, I emailed them this morning and havent heard back yet so we will see, but it is a Big 16G so if I buy a used big 16g just the turbo will it just bolt right in place and everything will fit? Thats my worry is all the money I spent modifying things to work, I don't want to do that again! Thanks!!
 
What did you "modify" to get this turbo to work ? Oil/Water Lines and your charge pipe ? If thats all you had to do than you shouldnt have much trouble getting a new one to fit
 
yes oil lines water lines the J pipe the BOV line tapped into the J pipe I had to change the oil feed line going into the turbo from a straight adapter to a banjo bolt with crushed washers like stock which is better anyways but most worried about that J pipe that was not fun and it BARELY fits any bigger or movement it won't fit.
 
No a huge return line blowing the turbo seals is a load of horseshit. Is your pcv valve working correctly? I would suggest dumping that pcv valve for a catch can setup if your into swapping tubros by now.
 
No I didn't say it was from the return oil line I said I think it was from my oil pump I started with a number 4 line just started it and then changed to number 3 but was told number 4 could "pop" the seal instantly...didn't really beleave it but now I kinda do. They won't take the turbo back in exchange nor will they give me a deal on a new one so at this point if I can try anything else I am up for trying cause I can't afford a 500 dollar good turbo at the moment it will sit for another few weeks.

Still think a catch can?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top