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Another fan wiring thread

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Scrymerr

20+ Year Contributor
1,367
4
Sep 22, 2002
Vacaville, California
Hey, I did some poking around on how to wire up aftermarket fans, but not sure how to do it this way.

I have an AGP t3/t4 kit coming in the mail. This kit will reduce space under the hood, so I bought some slim fans.

RRE told me to use a 1360cfm main fan that comes on when needed, and an 810 CFM driver side fan that should always run while the car is running. I was wondering how to wire up a fan to always be on, and if any of you can make any recommendations to my setup.

Thanks,
 
just hardwire your ac fan to a good (switched) power source. power that comes on when the car is turned on. poke around with the test lite or voltmeter to find one. i forget where i have mine wired i can look if you need someone to find you one quick.
 
Ya, I would really appreciate it if you could tell me where you found the switched power source to use for your AC fan.

The passenger side fan has two settings, correct? hi and low? Does the car switch the passenger side fan on low speed at a certain temp, and then on hi if it gets even hotter?

thanks,

--Dan
 
looks like im using the old BCS hotwire. its part of the harness that splits off into a Y with the other side being the one that runs to the maf. the BSC has two wires red and orange( :dsm: 93 awd) the red one is the one you want. ( the bigger gauge wire) there is a good ground to the left of the air filter that has two existing wires on it you can use that for your fan ground....

as far as the hi low your talkin about im pretty sure thats not the case with our main fans its just on and off as far as i know......but i may be wrong :)
 
oh your 2g i didnt even look sorry OMG . it should be pretty much the same though. location on the harness might be different . use the hotwire off the BSC connector and find a good ground.
 
Scrymerr said:
I was wondering how to wire up a fan to always be on, and if any of you can make any recommendations to my setup.

Thanks,

I think this might be a little unorthodoxed, but when I had my Integra, with an LSvtec engine (the engine ran VERY hot) and to cool the radiator, I just spliced into the positive and negative wires going to the fan, and connected it directly to my 12V battery, and put a toggle switch in the circuit, and mounted the toggle switch in the cabin, next to my e-brake. When ever I got in the car and started driving, I just turned on the toggle switch, and the fan stayed on all the time. Although, I had to make sure I switched off the fan, when I left the car. I noticed the engine temp was a little cooler overall, because the fan was on all the time. (And not just spinning when the ECU decided to turn it on.)

In any case, I'm sure this is unorthodoxed, and it may be better to connect it correctly.
 
UCSLugRacerX said:
I think this might be a little unorthodoxed, but when I had my Integra, with an LSvtec engine (the engine ran VERY hot) and to cool the radiator, I just spliced into the positive and negative wires going to the fan, and connected it directly to my 12V battery, and put a toggle switch in the circuit, and mounted the toggle switch in the cabin, next to my e-brake. When ever I got in the car and started driving, I just turned on the toggle switch, and the fan stayed on all the time. Although, I had to make sure I switched off the fan, when I left the car. I noticed the engine temp was a little cooler overall, because the fan was on all the time. (And not just spinning when the ECU decided to turn it on.)

In any case, I'm sure this is unorthodoxed, and it may be better to connect it correctly.


Yea, thats pretty much what I am shooting for, a fan that will be on all the time while the engine is running. However, I wanna avoid just using a switch, just another thing for me to forget to turn on/off ;)

--Dan
 
Just ground a switch up to pin 20 on the ECU. This will turn both fans on high when the switch is on and you don't have to worry about switching it off when you turn the car off. Also, you can turn the switch off and still retain normal functioning of the fans, ie the ECU will still control them as necessary.
 
:rolleyes:
why wire in a relay when you can use switched power thats already on the car and not in use and right in the spot you need it ??? the ecu controls power to it so when you turn the car on the ecu turns power on to it. and when your turn your car off it will cut that power.. thats what you wanted right?
 
rsr93 said:
:rolleyes:
why wire in a relay when you can use switched power thats already on the car and not in use and right in the spot you need it ??? the ecu controls power to it so when you turn the car on the ecu turns power on to it. and when your turn your car off it will cut that power.. thats what you wanted right?


A fan will pull a good amount of power and should be on a relay just like a fuel pump. i would just find a 12V source that comes on when the car is on. Wire both fans to that with a 30 amp relay for safety. I would also put a switch in so that you still have control if you want, but since you have it on a switched source even if you leave it on by accident it will shut off with the car. Your call.

Michael
:talon: :laser:
 
A fan will pull a good amount of power and should be on a relay just like a fuel pump. i would just find a 12V source that comes on when the car is on. Wire both fans to that with a 30 amp relay for safety. I would also put a switch in so that you still have control if you want, but since you have it on a switched source even if you leave it on by accident it will shut off with the car. Your call.


that is 12v :thumb:
 
boostedinaz said:
A fan will pull a good amount of power and should be on a relay just like a fuel pump. i would just find a 12V source that comes on when the car is on. Wire both fans to that with a 30 amp relay for safety. I would also put a switch in so that you still have control if you want, but since you have it on a switched source even if you leave it on by accident it will shut off with the car. Your call.

Michael
:talon: :laser:

i just figured out this reply with quote LOL

anyways yeah it it 12v "switched" like you need and you can wire in a inline fuse if you must for safety.
 
rsr93 said:
i just figured out this reply with quote LOL

anyways yeah it it 12v "switched" like you need and you can wire in a inline fuse if you must for safety.

You can but I bet you will go through fuses alot. I see no reason not to put a relay on. It is a better option and why not do it right the first time.

The problem isnt the voltage its the amps that the fans will pull. You will over heat the wires and end up blowing fuses.

Michael
:talon: :laser:
 
boostedinaz said:
You can but I bet you will go through fuses alot. I see no reason not to put a relay on. It is a better option and why not do it right the first time.

The problem isnt the voltage its the amps that the fans will pull. You will over heat the wires and end up blowing fuses.

Michael
:talon: :laser:

well ive been using that set up for about 1 1/2 years now and its worked fine for me i do use an inline fuse and havent had one go on me yet. :thumb:

i got the idea from a buddy that taped power there and has had his in place for 4 years now (without a inline fuse on his though) on his lazer with no problems so i was just suggesting this set up. because it has been rock soild for us both. but Scrymerr will do what he thinks is best.
 
boostedinaz said:
You can but I bet you will go through fuses alot. I see no reason not to put a relay on. It is a better option and why not do it right the first time.

The problem isnt the voltage its the amps that the fans will pull. You will over heat the wires and end up blowing fuses.

Michael
:talon: :laser:

i am wired in with 12 gauge wire to a 12v source already switched and a inline fuse.
it is done Right! and there are other right ways to wire in a fan also yes putting a relay with a switch in is an option if you want to control the fans in addition to the key on key off power but he didnt want that.
 
Okay, I'm looking at the 1st generation Haynes manual in the air condition wiring diagram (pg 12-31 for any 1g'ers out there.) Now, from what I see, the condensor fan will only turn on when that the condensor fan motor relay is tripped by the magnet inside of it. So, would connecting pin 1 and 3 together and connecting pin 2 and 4 together work? It would still leave all circuits connected but bypass the magnetic mechanism. You should check your manual for something similar and try it to see if it works. Maybe I'll give it a shot and see what happens.
 
I've always wondered whether you could wire up one fan to run on low speed until the fan thermoswitch tells it to quit - regardless of whether the ignition was on or not - kinda like a honda (I know - I know) - & not run the Battery down on a hot day...

Well if you remove the female spade lug that has the Blue wire with Black stripe from the connector frame under the Radiator Fan Relay - then add a wire to that lug with a 20 Amp fuse - I used an aftermarket mini-fuse (same as stock) block with 14 gauge wire & go straight to the Battery terminal with the other end of that wire. Replace the lug into the connector frame of course - The Radiator fan will then run whenever the Coolant Temperature Switch at the bottom of the radiator closes (on 185F - off 172F) - REGARDLESS of whether the Ignition is on or not. Slight safety hazard as it will cycle a few times after you cut the car off if it's warm outside - but there is a sticker telling you it comes on automatically! This will be a bigger deal in the Summertime here & anywhere South of S.C. IMO. I have the small hole in my Thermostat so the Coolant can flow via convection till it cools.

In addition to the Radiator fan coming on when the car is off & the Temp Switch says the coolant temps are above 185 (my desired "Mod") - IF you have the AC button in BOTH FANS continue to run when you cut the car off & NEVER STOP - unless you let the AC button out. That "feature" could come in handy - but it could run a Battery down too... I told you guys I'm no electrician - Hot SETUP would be to have a 12V Timer in the Jumper that I ran from fan Relay.
 
BUCK said:
Radiator fan coming on when the car is off & the Temp Switch says the coolant temps are above 185 (my desired "Mod") - IF you have the AC button in BOTH FANS continue to run when you cut the car off & NEVER STOP - unless you let the AC button out. That "feature" could come in handy - but it could run a Battery down too... I told you guys I'm no electrician - Hot SETUP would be to have a 12V Timer in the Jumper that I ran from fan Relay.

The problem with this is that the AC power only comes on when the ignition switch is set to ON. Okay, I went and took a quick peak at the wiring diagrams, and I'm not 100% sure on how to handle this situation. The power through the switch is fairly complicated as it goes through the blower switch. But if you disconnect it from the blower switch and put a constant 12v connection to pin 1 of the AC switch, that should give it constant power. the only problem is, that will still cause the AC clutch to come on when you press the button. So just follow the idea that I give below about using the button when the car is set to ON.

But if you'd want to do this when the car is turned on ON, it should be pretty easy to do. With a quick look at the wiring diagram, if you either remove the AC clutch fuse or disconnect the condenser, it should act as a "fan turn-on". This is mainly advantageous for us people who don't have working air conditioning :D.

You're welcome to try these, but I'm too lazy to rip my dash apart to get to the connectors. To make sure that I'm not an idiot and can't read electical diagrams, I'd use a multimeter and test the ideas using a direct battery connection.
 
I would think think that a major problem with running the fan while the engine's off would be the fact that the water pump is no longer spinning, and thus no longer cooling the engine.
 
Untrue - the Coolant continues to circulate thru the open Thermostat via the principle of convection - the Fan hastens the convection & hence hastens the Coolant flow - when Thermostat closes Coolant circulates thru the Thermostat weep hole & thru the Coolant circuits not "valved" by the Thermostat, like the Heater Core & I'm pretty sure the TURBO Coolant Line.

rarson said:
I would think think that a major problem with running the fan while the engine's off would be the fact that the water pump is no longer spinning, and thus no longer cooling the engine.
 
Aikouka said:
The problem with this is that the AC power only comes on when the ignition switch is set to ON. Okay, I went and took a quick peak at the wiring diagrams, and I'm not 100% sure on how to handle this situation. The power through the switch is fairly complicated as it goes through the blower switch. But if you disconnect it from the blower switch and put a constant 12v connection to pin 1 of the AC switch, that should give it constant power. the only problem is, that will still cause the AC clutch to come on when you press the button. So just follow the idea that I give below about using the button when the car is set to ON.

But if you'd want to do this when the car is turned on ON, it should be pretty easy to do. With a quick look at the wiring diagram, if you either remove the AC clutch fuse or disconnect the condenser, it should act as a "fan turn-on". This is mainly advantageous for us people who don't have working air conditioning :D.

You're welcome to try these, but I'm too lazy to rip my dash apart to get to the connectors. To make sure that I'm not an idiot and can't read electical diagrams, I'd use a multimeter and test the ideas using a direct battery connection.

Actually as I said before - If you install the ONE Jumper wire I mentioned the Rad Fan will cycle on & off with the car OFF whenever Coolant temps tell it to...

But with that Jumper installed - if you have the AC & Interior Fan Switch On - & cut the car off - BOTH Rad & AC Fans run till Battery dies.
 
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