Another Clutch thread, ACT vs Southbend, sprung/unsprung...

[GSLENK]

Seems like im starting to overpower my oem clutch with 3k miles on it. Ill drive slow through the winter and get ready for a clutch install this spring. I plan on getting: clutch, pressure plate, fork/ball, TOB (mitsu), and possibly flywheel (not aluminum)

I did a lot of reading and came across the act spring failure thread, has me scared of springs so I have a few questions that i would like cleared up.

BTW my car for now is essentially stock 92, AWD. I will eventually like to run a hx35 (maybe throw in a 16g until then...) once i get a lot more starting mods, but i probably wont see that turbo for a year or 2 while im building up for it... So maybe I should go with a lighter clutch for 2 years and switch in due time?

-SPRUNG/ UNSPRUNG?
Its doesnt seem like those springs do much, I dont care if dirveability is reduced slightly. I DO CARE IF ITS GOING TO RAPE MY TRANSMISSION! I dont care for clutches that spit out springs also. I know dumping the clutch = break sh!t, I wont be doing that. So for longetivity is it Sprung (easier on components) or Unsprung (no risk of failure from spitting springs)

-Pressure vs Friction:
Hypothetically which is better more frinction disc, with less pressure, or more pressure and less friction or more pressure, more friction? Am I correct of these trade offs? ie. More pressure = crank bearing wear, more friction = more surface wear? Whats a good compromise? Iguess im in the rang of 2100 and 2600...

-Long lasting materials?

I have narrowed a few options:

Clutches:
-SOUTHBEND TZ/FE seems like this will last the longest, drive smoothest, and hold power nicely.
-SBC Sprung kevlar (alternative to SB TZ/FE)
-ACT UNSPPRUNG street disc, or 6puck (dont want springs springing around... would this be too harsh on anything? ie, trans/driveline?)

Pressure Plates:
Cant go wrong in this area? seems like no one has anything bad to say, just get something with my desired pressure rating and call it a day? maybe do some brand matching? I want to stay as light as possible, like 2100 so I dont premature kill my thrust bearings, or should I not be worried (stock 6 bolt)?
End up going either act 2100/2600 or Southbend SS

Flywheel:
With only 25k on the factory flywheel, should I just resurface? I was also thinking of possibly going the ACT street light. general consensus seems to be dont go aluminum, especially for long/hard runs...

And at the marginal cost, I might as well do Fork, Pivot ball, TOB while im in there, anything else?

My ideal setup so far would be Southbend tz/fe, SS PP, and factory resurface Flywheel. I think this would give me the most reliability/performance for the cost.

My cheap setup would be ACT 2600 kit with UNSPRUNG street disc, anything wrong with that? TIA

 

[bmoha7321]

Same as what Kurt's did. I have a picture floating around somewhere of my streetdisc looking exactly like Kurt's does.
I don't have a problem with ACT 2600 and unsprung 4 or 6 puck. Like I said previously you can slip a 4 puck with an ACT 2600 and it is nice and smooth. If you drive it hard or abuse it it will cause problems. But so will a sprung friction disc is you drive it badly.
I have heard it is harder to slip a 6 puck than it is to slip a 4 puck. I cannot confirm that myself as I have only driven the 4 puck. I was going to say unsprung 4 or 6 puck but really it doesn't matter if it is unsprung or sprung you can slip a 4 puck.
I see a sprung friction disc as a liability like balance shafts and balance shaft belt.

 

[____Kurt____]

Thanks guys for the compliments on the new twin disk, it is definitely sexy. I haven't driven with it yet so I'm not 100% sure of how it is drive-ability wise.
That blown sprung clutch was the clutch out of my fwd laser. I was driving it normally when I went to shift to 3rd and it would go into gear. Pulled the trans and that's what was there.
As for my AWD laser, I still have the clutch that I bought it with and haven't had *major* problems with it yet. It's an ACT 2600 sprung. I have had some issues tho with slippage and clutch peddel feel, but the peddel could be a number of other things.
My friend just dropped 600+ on a act 2600 setup and currently has a 2100 in his car and the only problems is clutch slippage.
Good luck with whatever choice you go with.

 

[GSLENK]

ok well ill have to wait until the spring... Ill keep my boost turned down till then. Then i will update with my choice and how it goes. Anyone, feel free to add input on Unsprung street discs. that is what Im most interested in learning about... thanks

 

[92nolatist]

Kurt, what friend dumped 600 on a 2600?

I dumped over 600 on a southbend ss x with a tz kevlar disk, plus new flywheel, clutch master and slave, ss clutch line, arp flywheel bolts and oem tob. Havent installed it yet due to I need to build my trans first.

OH, its a sprung disk BTW

 

[Hitmachine101]

heres my 2 cents
I run a act 2100 with a stock mitsu disk, a resurfaced stock flywheel and mitsu TOB

couldnt be happier with my choice, i did the 500 mile brake in period and even engine braked which i never ever do just to break that thing in

im awd and for a 14b with 17psi and a good tune im having no issues,

yes stay away from the act sprung disk, go south bend for the disk if your going sprung

id go in two stages, if your awd then even if you dd the car and keeping boost low your not going to see more than 60k miles if you are good at driving a 5speed

so in 2 years your halfway to that mark anyways


then once you hit the holset turbo get a heaver set up -- you dont have to worry about the crank walk with the 6 bolt

tripple disk kit might be extreme for the holset but take a look at it when you get there