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Another clutch engagement problem

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selmerguy

15+ Year Contributor
1,811
23
Nov 14, 2004
Killeen, Texas
Man I have searched and worked on thie problem and am still in the same boat. I installed a 91 tranny and tcase in my 92 talon. Also I installed a act flywheel and xtd stage 4 clutch with sprung disk. I have bleed the piss out of the clutch and adjusted the pedal to the point where the bolt came out of the c bracket. When the clutch pedal is pressed the slave moves the fork but just not enough to male the clutch engage. I have searched on here but most threads dont have a conclusion as to what fixed the problem. It looks like there is more room for the clutch fork to move but the slave just dosent push it that far. I have heard of the slave extended rod mod. Should I try that?

As of now I can shift with the car off but when I turn it on no shifting. If I leave it in gear, press the clutch and start the car the car wants to roll foward. I am stuck and really want to get my ebay project brok in and to the track.
 
Shimming the pivot ball is how I fixed the problem. I got the extended rod first, and it didn't solve the problem. Once I shimmed the pivot ball, problem solved.

I also upgraded to SS clutch line which resulted in a more consistant pedal response.
 
Update: I Bled the crap out of it again with no improvement. I changed out the slave with another and it didnt help either. Took the gromet boot off the fork aqnd had my wife hold the clutch and it appears that the fork is touching the tranny body. I guess I doo have to take the tranny out and shim that stupid thing. I love dsm's.
 
Also can I shim the thing to much? Would there be a problem if it had to much throw?

Two things come to mind,
1)There are only so many threads on the pivot ball, so you want to leave enough thread contact for it to seat well.
2)Depending on the step/thickness of your flywheel and thickness of you disk (basically your whole clutch set up), you can have it shimmed too much where it will be like you are riding the clutch pedal. I had this situation, but I just replaced the long slave cyl rod that I was using with the stock one.
 
I would just hate to rip the tranny off put one head bold washer on there put it back on and then need to do it again. So do you think I should go with one or two head bolt washers?
 
Shimming the pivot ball is a ghetto fix. Sure it works, but it's not the RIGHT way to fix the problem if this is the case. If you need to shim it then chances are it's because it's gotten worn over time and the top of the ball is no longer at the original height. How about you just replace the worn part instead of adding something else that will just end up wearing down your current one even more. It's not even 10 bux for a new pivot ball from the dealer.

Another possibility, which is directly related to a worn pivot ball is the clutch fork itself getting worn or even bent. If this was the case shimming the pivot ball is once again only going to make it wear even faster or put more stress on where the fork is bent. Your going to have to drop the tranny to do any of the above listed things. So do it once and do it right. It'll be cheaper in the long run.
 
^^^^

i agree.

i have the same problem all day long.

i have to shift into reverse every morning using 2 hands!

140K on my trans with 4 different clutches in its lifetime (2 being ACT 2600) I think the fork and pivot are done.

for you as a gift:

Clutch fork: MD770506
Pivot Ball: MD769102
Throw Out Bearing: MD749990
Throw out Release Clip: MD706158
 
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