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alternator charging issues

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98talonfwd

Probationary Member
7
0
Sep 18, 2013
jackson, New Jersey
Hey guys im not a new member here at all my old login seems too not work no longer due to a email account issue.. Ive been a member here since 2007 and im a need of some help.. I'm located in central Jersey right down the road from good ol Dogbox racing.. Heres my issue...

I have a bunch of talons, 4 too be exact, a 4g63 swapped colt and a spyder eclipse..but my only eclipse has started to give me issues.

Its a 1999 eclipse non turbo 4g64 platform, car is bone stock.. besides the battery relocation i just preformed. I did not label my battery cables, tossed a battery in, tryed starting it, and then realized the battery was in backwards... Worst move i ever made.. I blew the alternator fuse that has been since replaced..

My issue now is after the car runs and reaches operating tempature it stalls out and studders.. Basically when the alternator is connected it charges the battery at a usual 13.8 volts but the car wont run.. Now for the weird part,, when i disconnect the alternator from the battery itself or anywhere such as fuse box the car runs fine reading 12 volts as the battery dies down cause its not being charged.. Whats going on here i swapped in every single sensor and ecm from my other cars.. I got nothing..

PLEASE HELP

By the way i wish i had my old log in ID this would be so much easier. thanks

Dean

Anybody at all got a idea of my issue.. I would love the help.. if any more details are needed I'm here to offer

Anyone know what's going on here
 
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why dont you just swap out the alternator, sounds like the voltage regulator is tripping out, i mixed up my terminals before it destroyed my battery and blew at least 12 fuses
 
Thanks so much for a reply . I really appreciate the help.. I swapped the alternator out for the one off my 2g talon..I got the same result.. Do you recommend I purchase a brand alternator.

Thanks
Dean
 
Sounds like a alt issue still even though its new, or a wiring issue. There isn't much too it power wire, ground, altenator, or wiring issue at the altenator itself. Or a bad battery.
 
Thanks a lot guys for the replies.. This weekend I'll toss a new battery in with new alternator. Just hoping the main harness and fusebox harness is fine.. I'll update this weekend with some results.. I greatly appreciate the advice... everyone at my welding shop ain't a help..

Thanks again
Dean
 
Before expending in the alternator and battery, check the wiring from the alternator to the battery, If you swap your known good working alternator and had the same results, then it might be something between the alternator and the battery, so It should be the wire between the alternator or a cell in the battery.

You should check that before buying those 2 parts.
 
Yea I say go with a new battery and alternator and make sure bone of your wires have corrosion on them replace any bad fuses and you should be good
 
Thanks again guys.. I actually checked the conntunity between the alternator and fuse box and between the fuse box and battery seems i have no shorts.. I even went ahead and swapped the fusebox harness out for a spare i haf to make sure there was no shorts.. Same result.. Is it possible i damaged the battery, but it works and charges to its full potential.. Tonite a new battery will go in first

I even wired a 4 guage wire straight from the alternator to the battery post to bypass the fuse box, soon as i touch that battery with the wire, car dies..

Thanks
Dean
 
if the battery is starting the car and every thing works fine until you hook up the alt then battery is good does the car stall out as soon as you hook up the battery wire for alt or the plug for the alt?
 
Yea the car pretty much sounds like its leaning out/misfiring, this only happens after the car is warmed up.. Forgot to add that.. I checked all sensors, using ohms and volt test.. Soon as i touch the battery with the alternator wire it dies.. I must say it free revs fine after 2000 rpm.. Iac is ok.. This is driving me crazy i swapped the ecm same result.. The ignition all checked good..

Any more info needed to diagnose this issue please ask..

Dean
 
For one reason, I'm thinking that alternator is shorting out.

Turn the car ON, with the alternator wire disconnected, once is ON, check the current on the alternator wire and see what you find, check how many volts is throwing and check if that's positive, I being thinking that is grounding and instead throwing positive, It is throwing negative, so saying that, once the negative touches the battery (+), it stalls.

Edit,

Can you do a video and post it here so we can see what exactly is doing, a video will tell more and we might see something that you are not seeing.
 
That sounds like a good idea.. tomorrow after I get out of the shop I'll post a video from when I start the car cold too after the issue starts..

UPDATE... New battery, cars runs the same..

Should I start measuring the volts and continuity at the pins at the ecu in the mean time before I post a video
 
I doubt the ECU has anything to do with this.

Let's see this for a moment,

The Alternator wires (2 white wires), they hook up to the fuse box, from the fuse box goes to the battery, now, where do you connect the wires?, from the alternator straight to the battery or to the fuse box.

Have you give gas to the car while touching the battery with the alternator wires and see if the car keep up?.
We need more information on how you are doing it, also you should check under the fuse box and see if there are signs of barn peaces of some sore of.

At least post some pics of the fuse box, wires, or the engine bay.
 
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