Almost ready to start my fresh motor

[DeNoZZo]

I have come to the point where I am almost ready to start my fresh motor. It's got new seals, honed cylinders, polished crank, acl race bearings, new piston rings, arp main and head studs, and a cometic mls headgasket. I just got the tranny and motor back in, so now it's just a matter of plugging the harness in and hooking everything else up. My questions are what is a good first start procedure? I will be priming the motor with a pump through the oil filter housing. I have 10qts of castrol conventional oil and 2 purolator filters. I have heard to start it , and run it at 2k rpms for 15 minutes. Then shut it off and change the oil and filter. Take the car out for a drive varying engine rpm and putting it at different loads/engine braking. And by that point it should be broken in.

Please tell me if I'm wrong/give me tips.

 

[herewego]

i've built A LOT of stuff, including a few motors, motors from nitro rc cars to 16 cylinder cat motors for haul trucks(big mine dump truck). this is going to be a discussion that builds A LOT of DIFFERENT opinions. mine, happens to be... do not, NOT rap it up at all. let it idle and idle and idle. all of your parts are going to be lapping themselves in, wearing off burrs and sharp edges, last thing you want to do is make it turn faster and risk galling of a cylinder wall from a burr that would have worn off in a little time. also, changing the oil too soon could cause you to have a longer break in period. the tiny flakes and pieces of material mixed with the oil, act as a lapping compound and help the sealing surfaces wear into eachother. so, my end result is to say, let it idle a while. 20-30 minutes at least. another good part of that is, just in case something is not perfect, it doesn't self destruct, you might get a chance to shut it down before serious damage occurs. for at least the first 500 miles, try to keep the rpm's varying every 30 seconds. ex. driving down the freeway at 65, maintain your speed, but go from 4th to 5th so you dont stick it at '2400' rpm for too long. or change your speed a few miles an hour. a 500rpm change should be sufficient. don't go above 1/2 throttle, or over 1/2 your rpm range for 500 miles(try not to) 3/4 of both until 1000. change your oil. give that oil 20-30 miles and you should be good. now, i don't think you have to follow this to a T to get a good sound engine out of it(god knows the petal is too tempting) but stick to it the best you can and it will help a lot.

 

[DeNoZZo]

i've built A LOT of stuff, including a few motors, motors from nitro rc cars to 16 cylinder cat motors for haul trucks(big mine dump truck). this is going to be a discussion that builds A LOT of DIFFERENT opinions. mine, happens to be... do not, NOT rap it up at all. let it idle and idle and idle. all of your parts are going to be lapping themselves in, wearing off burrs and sharp edges, last thing you want to do is make it turn faster and risk galling of a cylinder wall from a burr that would have worn off in a little time. also, changing the oil too soon could cause you to have a longer break in period. the tiny flakes and pieces of material mixed with the oil, act as a lapping compound and help the sealing surfaces wear into eachother. so, my end result is to say, let it idle a while. 20-30 minutes at least. another good part of that is, just in case something is not perfect, it doesn't self destruct, you might get a chance to shut it down before serious damage occurs. for at least the first 500 miles, try to keep the rpm's varying every 30 seconds. ex. driving down the freeway at 65, maintain your speed, but go from 4th to 5th so you dont stick it at '2400' rpm for too long. or change your speed a few miles an hour. a 500rpm change should be sufficient. don't go above 1/2 throttle, or over 1/2 your rpm range for 500 miles(try not to) 3/4 of both until 1000. change your oil. give that oil 20-30 miles and you should be good. now, i don't think you have to follow this to a T to get a good sound engine out of it(god knows the petal is too tempting) but stick to it the best you can and it will help a lot.

Won't letting it idle not seat the rings properly? I thought it had to be raised. And cant idle glaze the cylinder walls during break in?

 

[LiquidX]

Leting it idle to operating temp is a good thing and take it out for a drive. Some say to drive it like you plan on driving it and others say to take it easy.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...break-breaking-motor-break-merged-10-6-a.html

 

[Bluefire16]

Search, there are SO many threads about this. I cant find it atm, but there is a good write up on how a "good and proper way" to break a engine is. I dont remember it all, but the guy says to beat on the car...take it out and run it hard just like the guy above me stated. Break it in like your going to drive it, and i have heard over and over its good to beat on it at first so help seat the rings in as well.

 

[herewego]

well, as i stated, there are going to be a lot of different opinions. everyone learns from someone that already as a way of doing it, blah blah blah, i guess the best thing to do is, read all you can, make your best choice and run with it. i've had em last a long time the way i stated, and i also had a motorcycle that went 4 years without a top end and all it saw from birth was wide open throttle... best of luck!