all the 2g powered by a 14b come in here!

[prophecy7115]

OK i just spent the whole morning searching, i need numbers, i am about to install a 14b in place of my t-25, i just put a fuel pump on my car and the mods in my profile, i estimate i am probably at 184 whp, if i throw on that 14b and at 18 pounds, will i see much of a power gain? like 220? or 230? and is it worth the difference? See my arch rival beats me on the quarter by 1 1/2 cars , will that change with a 14b? I did search, but i need number so if anyone has a 2g on a 14b please help.
IVAN

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

there is a local dsmer here, that has a ported 14b and exhuast housing. he is running 18psi on stock injectors and stock fuel pump. i have no idea how, but it just does.

I've done that plenty of times before myself. There are some naysayers on the board that will swear that its impossible but its not. My timing probably wasn't that great (didn't have a logger at the time) but I didnt blow up my engine doing so. I don't know what was the deal because most of my dsm friends were telling me I was about to blow it up.

 

[illinest]

Some people claim they have a 50hp power gain switching from a t25 to 14b but that depends on a few other things. If they were running there T25 at 15psi which most of them do stock with IC piping like most tuners have and running 91 octane it is going to knock and retard the timing because it is way out of the efficiency range of the turbo, causing knock from the hot air.

I can feel about a 20hp difference switching from 92 to 93 octance on my mostly stock w/ T25, so the 50hp gain by only switching turbos rumor might be a little off. Either way you can run lower octane and boost more

i just bought a 14b and will be swapping soon too

Higher octane fuel is more refined and therefore LESS explosive. I'm not clear on much beyond that as far as racing applications go, and I'm new to DSM tuning, but I know that in my chevy small block the best fuel to use is the lowest octane that runs smooth/ doesn't ping.

I THINK that it's parts clearances and compression ratio that primarily determines your need for higher octane, but I would welcome the input of a more knowledgeable member to set us straight.

If you are using lower octane fuel than the optimum octane for your car, then you WILL gain hp from moving up, but it will be because your car is running better.

 

[speedy13]

A buddy of mine vert4g63, is on a 14b and safc went to the dyno and at 18 he got 250whp

I can vouch for this guy because i used to roll with em back in Florida,But verts got a couple mods and AFC too.The 14b is the best bang for buck for a 2g when your starting out.After intake, exhaust,this is a good mod to do before stepping up to a big turbo.just my .02

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Higher octane fuel is more refined and therefore LESS explosive. I'm not clear on much beyond that as far as racing applications go, and I'm new to DSM tuning, but I know that in my chevy small block the best fuel to use is the lowest octane that runs smooth/ doesn't ping.

I THINK that it's parts clearances and compression ratio that primarily determines your need for higher octane, but I would welcome the input of a more knowledgeable member to set us straight.

If you are using lower octane fuel than the optimum octane for your car, then you WILL gain hp from moving up, but it will be because your car is running better.

Octane is simply an anti knock agent that controls the temperature that the fuel ignites. In a high compression engine you'd want higher octane fuel because it would prevent pre-detonation in the combustion chamber. Low octane and high compression OR high boost will get you knock that can damage engine internals.

 

[2gPressure]

I poop you not there is a huge difference from 92 to 93 octane for me. I drove with 92 for a year and another dsmer owner said it should pull harder and there was something wrong.
I started using 93 and it pulls you back into the seat to 5k, when before it was pretty much the same pull from 3k to redline. It is a decently bigger gain than when I removed my rear seat, spare tire, jack, and 30lbs. of things in the trunk which adds up to 100lbs. and is equal to 10hp, that is my reason for estimating 20hp. maybe it is right on the edge of knocking and retarding the timing

higher octane prevents knock, which when the ecu sees it retards the timing causing loss of power

 

[IMMORTALSPYDER]

Sorry but you're still wrong. Just changing your octane will not give you any substantial hp gains with your mods. Just changing octane doesn't add hp, it allows you to tune your car to make more hp . And losing 100lbs doesn't add 10hp to your car, although it will make you slightly faster since your car weighs less. Not a personal attack on you, but just trying to correct you from spreading misinformation.

 

[2gPressure]

Sorry but you're still wrong. Just changing your octane will not give you any substantial hp gains with your mods. Just changing octane doesn't add hp, it allows you to tune your car to make more hp . And losing 100lbs doesn't add 10hp to your car, although it will make you slightly faster since your car weighs less. Not a personal attack on you, but just trying to correct you from spreading misinformation.

I don't want to spread misinformation either but now your spreading it. I'm saying that removing 100lbs. is equal to adding 10hp. I'm not that retarded, I'll go to a dyno w/ some tuners and say remove the backseat and hood and see how much more power you make, I wouldn't make it out with my balls outside of my mouth.

I don't know what your thinking, pretty much the main thing increasing your octane allows you to do is turn the boost up. If your boost is set to high as in my case (T25 blowing hot air) you will get knock. And increasing the octane on a car that is knocking and RETARDING THE TIMING does increase horsepower.

 

[S_Ranger]

This whole time I thought FWD turbo models came 210 hp bone stock.

 

[doug]

A buddy of mine vert4g63, is on a 14b and safc went to the dyno and at 18 he got 250whp

If you're talking about Brendon, he's vertgst, and I'm pretty sure he was using race gas that day from what I remember.

 

[illinest]

This whole time I thought FWD turbo models came 210 hp bone stock.

Factory rated at the crank yes about 210 depending on model year but when dyno tested at the wheels you will rate somewhat less due to parasitic losses in the drivetrain.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

I don't want to spread misinformation either but now your spreading it. I'm saying that removing 100lbs. is equal to adding 10hp.

Now how is that any different from what IMMORTALSPYDER posted? You just said the exact same thing... TWICE! Read what you posted.

I'm not that retarded, I'll go to a dyno w/ some tuners and say remove the backseat and hood and see how much more power you make, I wouldn't make it out with my balls outside of my mouth.

Now you don't think that 100lbs worth of trunk clutter removed is going to make a difference on a dyno do you? How so? A dyno is measuring torque from the wheels not how fast the whole car is moving.

I don't know what your thinking, pretty much the main thing increasing your octane allows you to do is turn the boost up. If your boost is set to high as in my case (T25 blowing hot air) you will get knock. And increasing the octane on a car that is knocking and RETARDING THE TIMING does increase horsepower.

This just makes ZERO sense. First off why would anybody in example you, whose T25 is "blowing hot air", and whose engine is knocking, simply add a higher octane gas and call it a day? TURN DOWN YOUR BOOST. By the way, cars make more power with ADVANCED timing not RETARDED timing! Look up the word "retarded" in the dictionary... it means "SLOW", as in your car with retarded timing. You are definitely spreading misinformation on here. So cut it out before you get somebody's car fubared.

 

[Spookcorleone]

*Kicks back in his chair, eating pop-corn watching the board fight quietly*

Back on subject I did a 14B install on my 2G along time ago (when I still had a 2G...) never got to see the true benefit of it (over-boosting, needed to port things out so forth) had S-AFC II, 3"Exhaust, 255Walbro, and other stuff, which I can't remember. Would have been a good upgrade if I got that intercooler replaced... OR if my brother didn't slam it into a tree...

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

*Kicks back in his chair, eating pop-corn watching the board fight quietly*

There's no fighting going on here. WTF
If somebody is giving out poisoned candy you have a responsibility to slap it out of their hand. Thats all I did.

 

[jhfgsx9d]

i put a 14B on my FWD auto 1g and it is ballin a$$ fast now..... ! ok im just being dumb.... seriously though the 14B is a good turbo, but for the power gains and cost and time i think i would much rather spend the money on a small 16G or something(they can be had for aroudn 200) i had one on my 90 GSX and it was great, when i would mess up the driveline and have to go back to FWD i could get it to spin tires at 60 on the interstate(this is no lie so dont try the whole BS THING) it was at 16PSI with 680 injectors, fuel pump, and SAFC.... it was tuned really good !! I think the gains wouldnt be worth the efforts just my opinion...

JHF

 

[prophecy7115]

If you're talking about Brendon, he's vertgst, and I'm pretty sure he was using race gas that day from what I remember.

Yea from what i seen, he has a safc and 14b i didnt see anything else special, yea i just met them and miami dsm is a great group of people, i am not a hardcore member but i really like hanging out with them, any way back on subject, i met some guy today that has a 14b on the street and we talked on a red light for a about 2 minutes and told it was well bang for the buck, he pulled about 3 cars on me to about 80mhp, but yea i really cant wait, its just that when i fix somthing somthing else goes wrong , i just founf dout my the bracket the control arm attaches to on the chassis came of WTF , but i got to get it welded get motor mounts and some other things.

 

[eclipx]

i dont even rememeber who posted the original question, but this is to you: you'll feel a bit, but until you open your exhuast you wont feel shit for what that turbo has to offer. with the right mods (ignore all this gas octane BS) a 14b will give you an average gain of about 40hp. i know with my mods im making at least 240 to the wheel. i havent dynoed it, but just comparing to what my friends have run and thier mods.

its not a good idea to go any farther than a 14b w/o supporting fuel mods, probably hurt more than help.


and then again isnt this whole bench racing thing against the rules?

 

[2gPressure]

Now how is that any different from what IMMORTALSPYDER posted? You just said the exact same thing... TWICE! Read what you posted.



Now you don't think that 100lbs worth of trunk clutter removed is going to make a difference on a dyno do you? How so? A dyno is measuring torque from the wheels not how fast the whole car is moving.


This just makes ZERO sense. First off why would anybody in example you, whose T25 is "blowing hot air", and whose engine is knocking, simply add a higher octane gas and call it a day? TURN DOWN YOUR BOOST. By the way, cars make more power with ADVANCED timing not RETARDED timing! Look up the word "retarded" in the dictionary... it means "SLOW", as in your car with retarded timing. You are definitely spreading misinformation on here. So cut it out before you get somebody's car fubared.

Check yourself before you wreck yourself. the 100lbs. is equal to 10 hp in acceleration of the car not on a dyno where it sits still, you and I know that but you just want to tear my hole open so your misinterpreting things.
I can't turn down the boost because it is a regular T25 running around 14 psi because that is what the wastegate/boostcreep allows it to do stock. I would turn it down if I could so that I didn't have to run 93 octane.
Why would I call it a day after increasing octane? because the lower octane knocks and the ecu retards the timing so I lose power. I put in higher octane it doesn't knock and the timing isn't retarded anymore. you could say the ecu is advancing the timing with higher octane that gives more power. you need to reread the things i said.

 

[killakev805]

Check yourself before you wreck yourself. the 100lbs. is equal to 10 hp in acceleration of the car not on a dyno where it sits still, you and I know that but you just want to tear my hole open so your misinterpreting things.
I can't turn down the boost because it is a regular T25 running around 14 psi because that is what the wastegate/boostcreep allows it to do stock. I would turn it down if I could so that I didn't have to run 93 octane.
Why would I call it a day after increasing octane? because the lower octane knocks and the ecu retards the timing so I lose power. I put in higher octane it doesn't knock and the timing isn't retarded anymore. you could say the ecu is advancing the timing with higher octane that gives more power. you need to reread the things i said.

Now you are just creating an even bigger opening for people to flame you. What makes you think your t25 has boost creep? It may spike at first but it can't keep up with anymore than 12psi to redline, so how will it creep? I don't understand why you are having problems with knock on that t25 at 14 psi with 92 octane, but with 93 octane it cures it .
Do you have a logger? If so, I would go log a pull with some 92 octane and then go get some 93 octane and log a pull. Then you can come back here and post up the results, if it in fact does make that much of a difference it will show up in your logs.

 

[TUI2I30]

wow, did he really say that?

You did type it in a manner that could easily be misinterpreted but I was able to make out what you were trying to say. YES, reducing weight CAN 'feel' like more power (if you can feel it at all ) but the fact is that it is not a TRUE power gain. I can also see what you are saying about the octane, and no one is calling you out on anything other than the LARGE number gap you are talking about from 1 octane level. Maybe you just got a bad batch of gas! That is a serious jump! That almost as bad as saying that putting a k&n filter on a stock car made it run low 13's, its just ludicrous. OR, switching to synthetic oil cured my crankwalk! SO, I think YOU need to check YO' SELF!

to the 14b upgrade: if you got it, use it. if you bought it, I would have spent the money on a small 16g. just my 2¢. I had a 14b on my first 1g and it was a nice quick spooling turbo. I wanted a bigger one but I got rid of the car before I ever did.

 

[allgripnoslip]

Watching my boost gauge stay at a steady 16psi to redline where as the t25 would spike to 16 then drop back to 12 I got my 14b for $60 and my install kit for $175 which included complete lower intercooler piping. It has definetly increased power on the top end. 14b's can be very fast with the right supporting mods ( all of them ), like 12's.

 

[DSM BEEYACH]

NO NOTHING NEW TO ADD TO THIS THREAD

Well i thought i'd also just say that the 14B beats the hell out of the T25. I am running one right now. I upgraded from a T25 and its like night and, day even though iam only running 3psi higher than i did on my T25. I can tell you that the 14b has longer pull than a T25. I am running this beeyach @ 17psi with out any fuel mods besides a rewire pump which doesn't do shit on a stock fuel setup if you ask me. Anyway my knock did not change at all its to a minimum running 93 octane. I did port my 14B but, i cant say that it did any thing since i never ran it stock. Iam not having any heatsoak problems since iam running all hard pluming which does help some. Any way good luck to you on your 14B setup and, i hope you upgrade your blow off if you haven't already.

 

[redfury]

wow, did he really say that?

You did type it in a manner that could easily be misinterpreted but I was able to make out what you were trying to say. YES, reducing weight CAN 'feel' like more power (if you can feel it at all ) but the fact is that it is not a TRUE power gain. I can also see what you are saying about the octane, and no one is calling you out on anything other than the LARGE number gap you are talking about from 1 octane level. Maybe you just got a bad batch of gas! That is a serious jump! That almost as bad as saying that putting a k&n filter on a stock car made it run low 13's, its just ludicrous. OR, switching to synthetic oil cured my crankwalk! SO, I think YOU need to check YO' SELF!

to the 14b upgrade: if you got it, use it. if you bought it, I would have spent the money on a small 16g. just my 2¢. I had a 14b on my first 1g and it was a nice quick spooling turbo. I wanted a bigger one but I got rid of the car before I ever did.

Why waste $400 on a S16G when comparable performance can be had with a $100 14B ? If your going to waste that money on a S16G might as well spend a hundred more and get a EVO 3 16G.

 

[S_Ranger]

I'm being tugged back and fowarth between the 14b, small 16g, and the evo 3 16g.

 

[TUI2I30]

Why waste $400 on a S16G when comparable performance can be had with a $100 14B ? If your going to waste that money on a S16G might as well spend a hundred more and get a EVO 3 16G.

true, you might as well spend the extra and get a bigger one. I don't think spending $400 is a waste, I can get a t3/t4 turbo for a little more than that! It really comes down to whats available and what your budget is. If you have only $100 and can pick up a 14b, do it. OR save it and get a better turbo.

Click here first before you blast me!

Bolt-on for $649.

 

[doug]

I'm being tugged back and fowarth between the 14b, small 16g, and the evo 3 16g.

Unless money is an issue, there should be no confusion-- the Evo III 16G owns the other two.