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All-Motor Challenge

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99rs

15+ Year Contributor
95
2
Feb 4, 2004
Mount Joy, Pennsylvania
Found this on team-2g.com


The all motor primer. (It's all in here.)

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If there is one thing that bugs me, it's when DSMers jump on the "turbo is better" bandwagon and rip up anyone who says they want information about going all motor with their 2GNT. Even so, the more I think about it, it seems there are a lot of people out there who aren't aware of just how hard it is to even come close to approaching the speed and power of a turbo DSM without using any power adders. I figured I would lay it all out there for those people who wanted help in deciding which route they wanted to take.

THE BASICS.

All motor = 100% motor power. This means NO TURBO and NO NITROUS. Can you build a decent motor and spray to make some nice power? You bet your ass, you can, but just don't go bragging about how you're "all motor" because, if you spray, you're no longer relying on the motor for all your power. That's why nitrous is considered a "power adder."

THE COST.

The most valuable modification you can do to your car to make it faster is 100% free. It's called practice. Power is nothing without control and chances are, you'd be lucky to break into the 14s in a Dodge Viper if you'd never driven one before. The more trips you make to the track to nail that launch and trim your 60ft time, the better your mods will do you in the long run. In the mean time, I'll point you to my National DSM Registry (NDSMR) profile in my sig and tell you it's set me back more than $5,000. To put that into perspective for you, a basic bottom end rebuild with the forged bits to handle a lot of boost will run under $2,000 and you can get a brand new HRC Stage 2 turbosystem with the FMIC option for under $3,000. $5,000 translates into less than 200hp all motor or better than 300 with a turbo kit.

THE POINT.

If you want to be serious about pushing the limits of all motor tuning on a 2GNT platform, by all means, welcome to the club. We're glad to have you among us. If you thought the camraderie among DSMers was good, you should see the shenanigans we all motor nuts get ourselves into. Just keep this information in mind when you're shopping for parts. The most expensive or the flashiest brand names are not going to do you right. Remember, I've got over $5,000 into my engine and I'm running a $60 used header, a $30 eBay intake, and a $30 GST exhaust. Once you get into the engine (and you will have to get into the engine either way, if you want to make serious power), things get pricey. You have to be smart with your money when you go this route or it will eat you alive.

So, I know this is long, but I have a reputation for being long-winded, so kiss my ass. Take from this what you will. The way I see it, anyone can order a turbo kit from Bill Hahn, Jr. and run a 14 second quarter, but how many people can do that all motor? Right now, not a single, documented case. That's what I'm after. With the advent of the Megasquirt for the 2GNT platform and new ideas being introduced every day, I don't see why we shouldn't have all motor DSMs in the 14s, but it's not an easy path to follow.

I guess the point is this: The most important thing to remember about working on your DSM is that it's supposed to be fun. If you don't want to be the fastest, most powerful, stock displacement, all motor DSM in the country, then go ahead and spend $500 on that name brand header. Pick up the matching $500 cat back while you're at it. Just be sure to have as much fun as you can. This means be sure you keep your goals reasonable. If more than 200hp is something you HAVE TO have, then even I would suggest you research buying a ready-made turbosystem from HRC or piecing together your own, custom set up. Be sure you know WHAT makes you happy - the power and speed? Or the challenge of new territory.





I'd like to see how many people we can get to try this.
 
we were building an all motor 98 RT Neon... 2.4L 12.5:1 and ITB's... my buddy decided to sell the car and the motor project stopped... we finished the ITBs and ended up selling them on ebay... That thing would have been amazing... custom cut Crane 0028 cams... the idle would have been crazy! Damn, we should have finished that
 
I agree im trying to take my car to the limits without boosting it i havent even taken my car to the track at all but i still got alot of work to do. I'm not trying to say all motor is better but it really comes down to the driver my talon with me driving beat my buddys turbo eclipse both 5 speed so right there shows its the driver more than it is the car.:talon: :thumb:
 
Its a nice post actually. I don't like bashing the N/T guys, so I am backing you guys up with the all motor idea. I don't mind seeing the N/T guys in the 14's. I actually saw a Neon R/T 98 I believe it was pull a 14.9 at 91 mph, he had slicks though. I still found it impressive for something thats naturally aspirated. Put some 13:1 Compression Pistons in there, get the displacement up to 2.4L some cams timing gears and so on, I think you can get into the 14's no problem. Once you start gutting the car down, you will start to see low 14's maybe even high 13's, the Honda guys can do it, so can we DSMers.
 
Yes I agree with the low 14's maybe the high 13's. This doesn't need to happen right now, I am talking over the years and maybe have a write up of parts for future dsmers.
 
Lets start a list of people that are interested:

1. Gary (99rs)
 
I think one of the things the author of the article was trying to do was emphasize driver skill. I strongly agree with him; most people could safely assume a less experienced driver would stand little chance against a very experienced one.

I can't remember exactly where I read it (I think either in Turbo or Import Tuner Magazine), but there are more and more races where the cars are all basically the same - the only determination as to who will win the race is driver skill.

Personally, I think this adds tremendously to the sport of a race. Anybody can have a 500+hp beast built if they have enough money, but few can build that car themselves, and even less can drive it to its potential.

While I am still a proponent of boost, I think my views on the subject are aligned with the author's in that having more all-motor competitions could level the playing field while adding to the sport.
 
VelocitàPaola said:
I think one of the things the author of the article was trying to do was emphasize driver skill.
Meh. It was a side point for the kiddies who think that you can just slap a big turbo on the car and run tens. I was more after showing the broad strokes of the all motor route.
 
I think I am going to keep it simple and just stick with the basic bolt-ons.

cai, headres, cat-back, plugs and wires, udp, drop in cams and cam gears, tb, lowering springs, sway bars, strut braces, struts ect.

I want to try out autox and see how that goes. If I like it I will keep the mods going.
 
99rs said:
dr1665, how do oyu like your setup?
I love it. In fact, once the Galant gets here, I'll be stepping up to Crower 3 cams and giving them a shot. I might even step up to a 3" exhaust and see what that does, since the car is going to become mostly top end. I don't plan to spend much time with the engine below 4000rpm this year.

Your plan sounds pretty good. I'd only get one header if I were you, but otherwise, it looks sound.

Another good read if you're thinking about all motor or just want more information about rebuilding the 420A.
 
so if I go with the 13.1 cr I should not get the long rods?
 
should i leave the fuel system alone or what can i do there?
 
99rs said:
should i leave the fuel system alone or what can i do there?
You seriously need to do more of your own research. Don't just post a question, then post another, then post another. If you read that last link I posted, it goes into pretty much everything you would ever want to consider for a rebuild and what to look for. Show us you're really interested in this, man.

Let me put it to you this way - the only thing left to do on my engine, mechanically, at this time, is cam gears. That's it. Everything else you can do to the engine has been done (save those things you do one or the other, such as milling the head vs. new pistons). I am still running a completely stock fuel system right down to the injectors. Up until about a week ago, I had a completely stock ignition system as well. Now I have a Screamin' Demon coil, Crane wires and some random spark plugs.

I have a Megasquirt and a wideband, but they're not even completely installed, so they do nothing. Once I start winding the engine beyond stock redline, I'll be watching the wbO2 to see if the stock injectors can keep up. If they can't they'll be replaced then.

Unless you're going turbo or nitrous, you can pretty much get away with stock fuel and ignition systems.

Finally, long rod does not increase compression ratio. It just allows more time at TDC for combustion to take place before travelling back down in the cylinder. It also offers a more favorable rod ratio.
 
Nice write up I still love my turbo but. I would like to see how this goes. More props to you. I'm all about taking a car that runs 16's to 14's wither its n/t or turboed. I used to be N/A with nitrous. So I this idea have past my mind before. But now I have turbo and I plan to build. but you also need to look at it this way we have 420a's we all get beef from the 4g63 guys:nono: lets not hate on each other but help one another. I seen alot of post about fuel upgrades, high com. ratio pistons and rods but no one mentioned that are heads suck. Have you ever looked at the intake and exhaust ports? There is room for major improvement. Going the N/A root or turboed you well need to port and polish and cams at least. I think you could gain 30 hp from head work alone. That's my 2 cents.:dsm:
 
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I second that on the head work, not so much about the cams, cause I think are stock cams have a decent duatation period. But I definatly wouldn't argue with a set of stage 2 cams from Crower or Crane.

I think that NT 420a's looking for some good hands on experience and a cost effective mod that will net a lot of power, is to dissassemble your head and intake mani and TB, and take it to a machine shop and have them port and polish the whole thing and hook up a 3 or 5 angle valvegrind. Bore the TB to 55mm (57 if possible) and then put your head and intake maini back on slap on a K&N intake and some good headers (with exhaust) and boom, your car wil scream. It'd probaly sound a lot better too.

I tell ya, I'm considering getting another car for a daily driver, and another NT eclipse probably wouldn't be a bad choice with those few mods I just listed. I'd take it.
 
You've got the right idea, Rand. That's pretty much what I've done and it does sound sweet, but I'll tell you, the average Joe isn't going to like his car sounding like mine does at WOT between 4000 and 6000rpm. I have a 33" long glasspack in place of my cat and a modest GST axleback installed right now and the rasp is always right there. It doesn't go away once the engine warms up. It just settles into that 4000-6000rpm range. Maybe my Greddy Evo cat back will help a bit.

Even so, I can't wait to finally finish my MSnS install so I can wind her out as far as a set of tuned Crower 3s will pull me. Hell. I might even throw in an exhaust cut out to scare ricers from time to time.
 
Yeah the EVO 2 exahust will shut up any rasp you got going, and I bet you could even get rid of the glass pack in place of the cat.
I loved the sound of my EVO 2 exhaust back in the day, to bad it was an east coast car and was rusted to s##t when I went to put my header (headers, LOL) on.

And I definatly want to see a write up after your all motor beast is complete.
 
I agree with the view of building a dsm motor to its limits, without turbo, nitrous, etc.. and i have respect for people who go down that road. Its all about where you want to take your car. IMO, turbo makes the car faster, and offers the most HP for your dollar. You can build a motor all day, but if im boosted and youre not ( this can be broad statement) chances are I'll win. Simply put, boost can make a car faster then all motor.
 
99rs said:
Yes I agree with the low 14's maybe the high 13's. This doesn't need to happen right now, I am talking over the years and maybe have a write up of parts for future dsmers.

Baby steps guys baby steps. I don't know if this is really possible considering the 2gnt has been out for over 10 years now and people have yet to get into the 14's all motor. But keep working for it, and you will keep getting closer. I think alot of us start out with the "I'm gonna make the baddest all motor on this side of town" mentality when we first start modding our 2gnt. I know I was like that, and I encourage that thought. It would be really something to achieve a nice goal like that, and be the first one to do it. But in the end, the boost bug bites a lot of us. Im a victom.

dr1665 said:
Finally, long rod does not increase compression ratio. It just allows more time at TDC for combustion to take place before travelling back down in the cylinder. It also offers a more favorable rod ratio.

beat me to it.
 
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