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All I want is power from 4000rpm to 7000rpm

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NOOB1GDUDE

Proven Member
88
3
Oct 3, 2016
MT Gilead, North Carolina
Hi was woundering what turbo would give me a power band that starts at 4K to 7k. I will be buying mods soon and was thinking about fp green with vrs fmic,1120 fic injectors,255 fuel pump,fpr,crush bov,Ecmlink with speed density and what psi would I be able to boost on an all stock motor. As in stock studs mani pretty much the long block. Some of the mods are already on the car. Check my profile. Thanks to all who responds to this thread.
 
It definitely is cheaper. I paid 650$ for my flywheel clutch combo. As far as my understand goes, there has been 2 different versionsof the 68hta.

Version one is essentially a 20 compressor wheel stuffed into a 16g (rated for 47 lbs per min) and was built using an existing Mitsubishi 16g assembly

Version 2, which is the one sold now, is a turbo built completely around non genuine Mitsubishi components and uses a larger 8cm exhausting housing instead of the the 7cm found in version one. Result is, slower spool for a trade of 51lbs per min.

Im going to agree with hope on this one. Getting your 14b converted to a 20g will net you around 44-45lbs per minute and will be cheaper. Spool and power will be around what you want and cost will be cheaper.

Just don't know how reliable the hybrid turbos will last as its gonna be driven daily.
 
So it's been decided fp green! But how much psi will my stock long block hold? Plus the green will give me room to grow am I rite? The lag is ok as I do not intend to do digs. I know than why a awd? So I won't break loose on the road with the power. Thanks for all the replies and info will update profile once all part installed and dyno. As to the clutch thang how are the 2100 act feel on the petals is it like stock or so. I'm still yet to look up the south bend one.
 
The life expentency of any turbo will come down to a few factors:

#1: how you drive the car. If you beat the piss out if it, no turbo is going to last.

#2: type of oil used. Fp has an oil recommendation guide that should be religiously followed. Using any other oil can lead to premature wear of the turbo components . It has been proven so.

Boost level and tune also have an effect. The 68hta's are essentially hybrid turbos just made from a reputable company. But to me, you sound dead set on the 68hta. Not a bad turbo at all, just saying getting a turbo from Justin has been proven to work just as good as being new
 
I would look into the South Bend clutches as some have a very soft pedal feel (I'm currently running one and it's very light). I think 2100 may be too weak for a green. The good thing about the down-firing turbos is you don't have to deal with that stupid j-pipe and the issues involved.
 
Clutch wise, I run a ACT 2100 with Lightweigh flywheel and a 6Puck Sprung disc all ACT. Wicked hard clutch pedal, brutal dailying but amazing for hard driving. I have put 15k hard miles on it at over 300whp and she sung everytime. Listen to those guys for the clutch if they say soft pedal. Worth it for a daily. BTW I ran a 20g/hybrid td05 and loved it, spool exactly where you want it, held 26psi all day long. Only ran 500miles with it. It is for sale. So let me know if interested. 20g/16g TDO5 with Ported FP Exhaust housing 8cm 32mm.
 
Look into southbend, i run a southbend 2700#pp and it is not stiff at all and will hold power all day!
I am about to go hx35 soon with my 2g and Im not worried about the clutch at all!

I did a lot of reading before I got my clutch, it was right for my goals with room to grow.
 
+1 for Justin. He's a local here in Pittsburgh and can build you a turbo to have the power band and HP you want. I use the same parts he does to build turbos. i built a td05h 20g that makes 450 on pump gas and 538 on e85. Message him on here about building you a turbo to fit your application!
 
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