2G Alignments and eccentric toe bolt

[dgdsm]

So after chewing through rear tires for about 5 years, I have now started to do my own alignments. I'm using two methods, the toe plate method and a laser level method I found on YouTube. I might also do a string alignment sometime. Both the front and the rear are now within specs (0.06 inch toe-out) and it's driving straighter than it has in a few years. We'll see how it holds up. According to a frame/ alignment shop I took it to a few years ago, any alignment work done on it wouldn't hold because of worn-out bushings. I think I have now what I need to replace bushings, or just entire control arms one by one. I don't know about subframe bushings.

There is though currently an odd thing: The rear eccentric toe bolt is 180 degrees out from the mating mark (see image). It's the same on the other side. Turning the bolt so that the marks are lined up in the right orientation doesn't leave the toe where it needs to be (outside adjustable range). Could it possibly have been installed incorrectly by a previous owner? Should I take it out and reinstall it, or replace it? Or just leave it?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Looks to be installed correctly. Worn out bushings are never good but getting it aligned should still save your tires. Not sure what you mean by the eccentric bolt being out 180*

https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-2g-fwd-rear-toe-arm-eccentric-bolt-kit?variant=41131305417&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhs79BRD0ARIsAC6XpaU7GPTmaQZv2Q726gTWQ4RctM2IbshNF2iqRhh8FZThd_3hYP536g8aAsMAEALw_wcB

 

[dgdsm]

Not sure what you mean by the eccentric bolt being out 180*

When I look at the diagrams from the FSM, it looks like there is only one mating mark at the bottom, so the expected position would leave all those notches on the right side and closer to the bottom than the top (hope that makes sense). But it may just be at one end of the adjustable range. I'm just leaving it there right now.

It looks like the toe did shift after a few hundred miles (now slightly out of spec) so there's more to do.
I'm thinking that this (attached image) could be the main problem in the rear suspension. I'm pretty sure I know where this is from: An incident in 2014 when an unconscious older driver pushed this car 40 ft with the emergency brake on in a parking lot at this corner of the vehicle. I guess it could also just be an incorrect part.

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I'm planning to replace this control arm with either a new aftermarket one, or a control arm from the JY (came across one today). I'll probably have to install at least one new bushing, which would be my 1st bushings work.

I can't tell how this bent component specifically affects toe, so if someone could explain/ verify this it'd be helpful. I can also see visually that the camber is off so I'm looking at some different camber adjustment kits.

 

[IQ685]

My suggestion is that if you're going to start replacing bushings, just bite the bullet and get polyurethane bushings. Energy suspension makes a master kit for the front and rear suspension for ~$150. The hardest part will be pressing the old bushings out(find someone with a shop press, it'll make the job 100 times easier). Odds are if your trailing arm bushing is worn out(which it is since the rubber is starting to crack in the picture), most of your other bushings are either also worn out, or are on their way to being worn out.

 

[Mello]

Your eccentric hash marks won't line up like the service manual pictures if you've lowered it from factory ride height.