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Agressive Build for Daily Driver

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pdc

15+ Year Contributor
65
0
Oct 2, 2007
Mount Solon, Virginia
What components/build could I add to make this a more aggresive daily driver? I want it to still have AC, idle smoothly and not be a police magnet.

Right now I have a big 16G, 650 injectors, injen type intake w/ K&N, bored throttle body, 2 1/2" downpipe, high flow cat, 3" Thermal catback (i have a silencer on it now to keep the police at bay), Alamo SMIC w/ hard piping, SAFC, running 22psi of boost. EGT,Boost,A/F Guages. This is an A/T with IPT built transmission.

What more could be added for more HP and still maintaining reasonable daily drivability?
Right now staying with stock internals.
 
264/272 cams, rods, 8.3:1 pistons, and fuel systems.

I forgot to mention I do have a Wallbro 190 fuel pump.

How much horsepower gains can you get from increasing the cams?

As for pistons and rods, I'm sticking with stock internals for now.
 
I would say to get an electric cut out. I know you have an exhaust already, but silencer's really restrict and it's hurtful to performance and flow. You can get 272's and still idle fairly well. Mine were tuned out for idle and it was pretty smooth except for at cold start up, where it sounded like a street ported rotary. Other than that, I'd say FMIC and a good tune would net you some good power and keep it docile when you wanted on the street.

A friend of mine has an auto awd that is still going to be his daily. He is getting his clutches replaced now, but he has a high stall TC with a 2.3/FP 3065, direct port nitrous and a/c, p/s. It can be done, you just need to see how far you're willing to take the driveability factor.
 
Cams are great for hp but are they really the best for a daily driver? Moving the powerband up isn't that great for spool or low end response. If it were me I would work on removing restrictions, open up the intake with a maf-t, port the turbo/exhaust/O2 housing. I would also consider E85 and larger injectors if E85 is readily available in your area.
 
tubular O2 housing and a tubular manifold would open up the midrange of your 16g alot
 
check my profile.. i drive my car almost everyday in the summer, and even make long trip to VA with it (41/2) hours straight cruisin on the highway).:thumb:
 
Cams and a FMIC will only help out the mid-to-top end. The old butt dyno won't feel much of a difference but just a bit in 3rd gear when the FMIC really kicks in. Both are really streetable.

Thermal R&D exhaust w/ a silencer??? Is that somethin new?

Stock internals can do you around 30-32psi on just a couple of mods and a good tune with leaded fuel.
 
Cams and a FMIC will only help out the mid-to-top end. The old butt dyno won't feel much of a difference but just a bit in 3rd gear when the FMIC really kicks in. Both are really streetable.

Thermal R&D exhaust w/ a silencer??? Is that somethin new?

Stock internals can do you around 30-32psi on just a couple of mods and a good tune with leaded fuel.

I see so many things wrong with your post..
First how does a fmic "kick in during 3rd"
2nd stock internals can take 30+psi but only if the car isn't knocking and if the car has headstuds. Also you don't needed leaded gas to run that much. e-85 is non leaded and i run over 30psi
 
I see so many things wrong with your post..
First how does a fmic "kick in during 3rd"
2nd stock internals can take 30+psi but only if the car isn't knocking and if the car has headstuds. Also you don't needed leaded gas to run that much. e-85 is non leaded and i run over 30psi

A FMIC is most effective in third gear and up.
Headstuds aren't considered internals as the fastest DSM with stock internals has upgraded studs.
BTW, you forgot about a ML HG or metal HG.
Where in my previous post did you happen to see me saying that leaded fuel was "needed?"
 
Front mounts are not a ton more effective at higher speeds if you have a good cooling setup as well as a good core. I can cruise to the gas station, never going over 25-30mph and feel both endtanks and the cold side is still ice cold.
 
I would say cams to help you out as well, also manning up and running without that silencer will help.

Also I gained 30 WHP from my car by getting it properly tuned by someone who really new their stuff. After you spend all kinds of money on parts and upgrades its almost stupid to skimp on the tuning to make everything work together.
 
cams will help immensely, I've got a brand new set of HKS 272's if you are interested. I decided to go with 280's on my build for my street car. Good luck
 
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