After new cams @ 15 psi - ready for 20?

[iiiwildfireiii]

Well, here she is after the cam install. T04b v-trim at 15 psi. Didn't really notice too much of a difference since they are the fairly mild comp 100's. The data you can see for yourself. Lb/min increased a bit, but not much. Rolling MPH times were 44.3 - 60.5 mph in 2.14 seconds. 44.3 - 71.2 in 3.96 seconds. 44.3 - 90.0 in 8.5 seconds.

Can anyone tell me how to figure out how you tell your approx. HP with the 70 to 90 mph times? Keep in mind this is an automatic.

Oddly enough, I went from 15 to 16.5 psi after the install and we never touched the wastegate actuator. Tell me what you think for my settings, especially concerning the knock after I hit 70-ish.

If I can get that figured out, I'm planning on bumping her up to 18-20 psi and calling it quits.

Thx!

 

[GVR4592]

It shouldn't knock like that with such low boost, even though it's a very minimal amount I would say it's too much for that boost level. Try to do a run when your coolant temps are in the 180's instead of 200+, that usually helps a little. I would also put the timing back to stock for now. What plugs are you using what are they gapped at? Have you done a boost leak test lately?

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

Unfortunately, my coolant is NEVER in the 180's, . It runs consistantly in the 200-210 range and I have the fans set to run all the time. As for plugs, I'm running the standard NGK BRR6ES's gapped at .028-ish. I haven't done a boost leak test in a while and I am planning on doing one shortly. That could shed some light on it. However, I have had logs like this before; sometimes it happens earlier in the run and others later. It always seems to start right after a shift.

I guess it is possible that my front mount is too small...but the coincidence of it immediately knocking right after a shift makes me think its something else. If you notice, the air flow when its knocking is much lower than earlier in the run. Possible heat soak even though its cool out?

Technical problems aside, how do you think its running for an automatic?

 

[wishihadatalon]

Try a set of ngk bpr7es (1 step colder) should help a little bit with the knock issue.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Try a set of ngk bpr7es (1 step colder) should help a little bit with the knock issue.

I would agree.

Change the plugs, 0 out the timing, do a boost leak test then you can turn the boost up.

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

I don't know what I'm going to be able to try out the suggestions, because somehow between last night and today, I've lost 5 in/hg and my idle sounds like I'm running 272's or something larger.

But, just to show you guys the difference, here is a WOT run done right before cam install. Only minor adjustments were made later.

 

[daren_p]

Sounds like you may have jumped a tooth on the timing belt. What method did you use to install the cams? I'd be talking a look at my timing marks before I did anything.

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

New development. This stuff just keeps spiraling the toilet. While the car had lost 5 in/hg it was still drivable. I drove it all yesterday and while the idle was rough, the car still drove fine and pulled hard.

I got it back home to do a boost leak test. Found out the left most injector seal was popped out. Wasn't holding an ounce of air. We pulled the fuel rail and resealed the injectors then did another pressure test. We found another leak on my BOV flange. We sealed that one. We then tried starting the car. It almost wouldn't start and when it did, it ran horribly. I did a quick log of its idle. Its labeled "Uh-oh."

Today, we went out to go back over the car. Now, it won't even start. I've done another log of the short amount of time we had it running. It is labled "WTF."

The head is ticking something fierce so we did like you guys suggested and checked the timing marks. They lined up perfectly. Rotated again, still perfect. We tested the coil packs and both are giving spark. The spark plugs and cylinders are drenched in fuel so we changed plugs and tried again. No luck.

We know that timing appears to be fine, there are almost zero leaks, injectors are firing, coil packs are functional...what am I missing?? We only fixed the injector seal and BOV leaks last night and the car was working just before that. I think I'm going to head to town now and get some new wires...just in case.

Any ideas? I have to go to work tomorrow!

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

*UPDATE*

Looks like you were right Daren_P. We rechecked timing again after we had gone through everything else. Turns out the timing WAS off on the intake cam by a tooth or two. We've reset the timing and cranked it over, it at least runs now. We don't believe that the valves were bent, but until we do a compression test tomorrow, we won't know for sure. Since its running, I have high hopes for good numbers. Well, on the bright side, I got some major boost leaks taken care of. Wish me luck!

 

[JayRolla]

Good luck man, ive been in those situations.

 

[arash15]

you loose timing with those high coolant temps. do whatever means possible to keep coolant temps below 200 F to stay on the safe side and not have the ecu pull timing. Also, your intake temps are high as well, which in result will pull timing. You need to get your motor running good before you start tuning for power and whatnot.