After my 1st log. I some questions

[ryu 2042]

So i have ran some logs using my pda and the pocketlogger software and now i have some questions.O yea i also want to say that throughout all I'm going to say the logger said there was zero knock. On a cold start my car idled from 594-656 but my timing bounced around from 14-16. i know its gonna bounce but i thought that was supposed to be around 5? my O2 sensor was at .06 the whole time and the tps was at 11. my O2 trim and high and mid fuel trims were at 100 but my low fuel trim is at 104. My injector duty cycle bounced around from 1.08-1.33.

So now i decide to take it for a drive. The temp is now up to running temp. This is when i start to notice that my timing is all over the place! So as i was backing up i give it some gas then let off, on my log when my car is at 1281 Rpms, my timing is 26, my O2 sensor at .33, the tps at 11, the inj P/W is at 1.54,the O2 trim is at 137, high and mid fuel trims still at 100, my low fuel trim at 107 and IDC at 1.64. This is when i'm off the gas peddle. From there my numbers do this.


Rpms,Timing,O2sensor, INJ P/W,Tps,O2 trim, high/mid Fuel trim,low fuel trim, IDC
1031 22 .1 1.54 11 140 100 107 1.32
813 17 .04 1.79 11 143 100 107 1.21
594 16 .04 2.05 11 145 100 107 1.01
500 16 .04 2.31 11 147 100 107 .96
344 5 .02 2.82 11 147 100 107 .81
250 5 .02 3.33 11 148 100 107 .69
250 5 .02 3.33 11 149 100 107 .69
250 5 .02 3.33 11 149 100 107 .69
250 5 .02 3.33 11 100 100 107 .69

And then it dies. I can start it right back up and i have the numbers of what it looks like after i start it after it dies like this if anyone wants to see them so they could possibly tell me why my car dies? I'd also like to say that during the drive if i let of the throttle completely my IDC is 0 is that supposed to happen? And also my timing has gone up to 40 and bounces around during regular driving. Any help would be great sorry for such a long post.

thanks in advance Bryan

 

[habitatguy187]

Try and post a crusing log around 40mph, a 3rd gear pull from about 2000rpms to 6500, and then do an idle log after the car is good and warmed up.

BTW the o2 sensor may be dead but it's hard to say because it takes a little driving around to heat it up so it will give off a reading.

 

[ryu 2042]

ok I'll do that and get back to you with the numbers.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

RPM looks kind of low for idle 250?? Not good. Stock chip sets the idle at 750.

 

[habitatguy187]

Did you ever do a boost leak test as suggested in your other threads? A boost leak can easily cause a car to die after letting off the gas. Also with your next logs don't worry about injector pulse width or duty, but be sure to log KNOCK. My bet for the car dying is a boost leak, which will throw off all your fuel trims. Let us know.

 

[ryu 2042]

When the rpms were at 250 it was right after i let off the gas it wasn't just doing that on its own, but yea that is low. I have not tried a boost lead test yet i had to replace the starter a couple of days ago i guess i should have done it then... but i will and to give some further progress on my way to class i had my logger with me so i could log that third gear pull when my CEL comes on i check it with the logger and it is throwing the O2 sensor so does this mean that my O2 sensor is done for? The only reason i ask is that my CEL comes and goes it never just stays on. i'm guessing its on its way, but i just wanted to be sure and ask you guys.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

To answer part of your question. The timing should only be at 5 BTDC when the timming connector is grounded, so yes, it's normal for it to move around while driving. As for the IDC, yes that is supposed to be at zero during decell, that shows me that your idle switch is working. As for the stalling, Ohm out your ISC to make sure it isn't shorted before you risk damage to your ECU. If that's ok make sure you don't have a vacuum/boost leak, then set your idle screw so that the ISC position is at around 30 while idling at 750 with the engine warm.

 

[habitatguy187]

You really need to do a boost leak test, if you've never done one I'll bet $50 you've got some leaks.

 

[ryu 2042]

Habit you'd be right I did have a leak, my intake pipe coupler was way loose and it was leaking like crazy! So i tightened that up and put in a new o2 sensor and it runs like a champ well at least it feels that way. I still need to run some logs to make sure the numbers are ok. Thanks for the replies i appreciate it guys.

Well it ran great on the way home but i took it out for a drive later on the same night and it still dies sometimes so...i might have some more leaks.

 

[ryu 2042]

Try and post a crusing log around 40mph, a 3rd gear pull from about 2000rpms to 6500, and then do an idle log after the car is good and warmed up.

I did a third gear pull and here are the numbers.

In the red area my numbers seem to go crazy. My timing jumps from 19 to 44 My brand new o2 sensor reads 0 and for a brief second my coolant is at 185 also my airflow goes from 1607 to 126. I do not know what fuel cut feels like but by the way its described thats what it feels like.When my numbers did this i was started to haul some major ass but then it feels like i hit a brick wall. So any ideas as to why it could be doing this? (besides a boost leak)

Colt how would i go about messing with the ISC like you said to do?

 

[habitatguy187]

Sounds/looks like you still have a boost leak, which is why the airflow went from 1607 and dropped rapidly. It maxes out at 1600 and somethin then induces fuel cut. Check the hoses going into/coming out of your intercooler. But besides that it will be hard to find the leak without a boost leak tester.

 

[ryu 2042]

ok so i checked those hoses on my intercooler they are good and tight. i'm gonna do an acutal test here in the next few days. Today while i was driving my CEL came on again so i checked it with my logger and it was the O2 sensor WTF i just put in a brand new one yesterday. Any reason why this could be? (besides a faulty sensor)

 

[habitatguy187]

You should probably pull your ecu out (5min job) and open it up and look for leaking caps or corrosion/burns on the board. Also if you didn't when you changed the o2 sensor you should unplug your battery for a couple mins and plug it back up to reset the ecu and any codes it was storing. Keep us updated when you do the boost leak test.

 

[ryu 2042]

Ok so first of all let me start off by saying still have not done a BLT, but i assume i still have one because when i get to 10 lbs of boost it drops down to about 5 or 6 then climbs its way back up.

Secondly i let my car get to running temp and noticed that my ISC climbs all the way to 120 while its idling. It doens't go any higher so i assume that it's maxed out. How can i change this? Also still not have had a chance to look at my ECU. Between work and school i've been slammed...

 

[habitatguy187]

Don't know much about the ISC but just do what you need to do and let us know.

 

[ryu 2042]

I am going to soon. I was just curious to see if someone could elaborate on what colt was saying about the ISC.

 

[ryu 2042]

So here are some updates... Today i went to check out what my ECU looked like and i found a crap load of wires that were from the old sound system that used to be in the car there were a bunch! So i got all of those out of the way and worked my way to unplugging the ECU got it out, popped it open and O Crap i see some damage... the pics that i have up here are of good ECUs, but where they are encircled in red that is where the damage is in mine. Where it is circled in red on my ECU it looks burned and both of the white business card looking things with MA and numbers on it on my Ecu are not standing straight up like the one in the picture.


Also i tested my ISC today and i want to make sure i did it right. As far as i have read you need to test 1-2 2-3 4-5 5-6. and have 28-33 ohms at a cold coolant temp. and the numbers go
1 2 3
4 5 6
So the only ones i tested were 1-2 and 4-5 because they were the easiest to get to. So i test 1-2 and get nothing but 4-5 i get 31 ohms so i figure if your suppose to get 28-33 ohms on all of them then mine is bad right? Hope so because i already ordered a new one.

 

[ryu 2042]

Ok i'm kinda confused... After i unplugged my ECU and looked at it then hooked it back up, all of my fuel trims are past 100% my low fuel trim is 139% mid 107% and high 102% but while my trims are like this my logger is saying that i am getting knock. From what i understand 139% is 39% than suppose to be so therefore i should be running rich correct? So if that is the case why would i be getting knock because i thought you get knock under a lean situation. And if it matters my O2 trim bounces around from 91% to 139%.

 

[ryu 2042]

ok i still have the fuel trims way out of wack. After doing some reading i have a few more questions. First my Isc is bad so i read up on that and i found that a bad Isc can lead to the O2 sensor reading lean. Could this be what is screwing my fuel trims? Also now i'm getting knock, could this also be related to the Isc making the O2 read the way it is. Also to counteract the knock i always use premium gas 93 octane i just add STP Octane boost to my fuel now but i still get it i'm confused...help?

 

[ryu 2042]

Well i've done some more reading on top of more reading and still not sure. anyone have any ideas? Or maybe some info that can disprove what i was thinking about the Isc causing my problems?

 

[jrohner]

Sounds/looks like you still have a boost leak, which is why the airflow went from 1607 and dropped rapidly. It maxes out at 1600 and somethin then induces fuel cut. Check the hoses going into/coming out of your intercooler. But besides that it will be hard to find the leak without a boost leak tester.

Unless he has the 2x Hz logging mod done, thats the max amount of airflow it will ever show. Of course the airflow dropped quick, he let off the throttle.

 

[jrohner]

Well i've done some more reading on top of more reading and still not sure. anyone have any ideas? Or maybe some info that can disprove what i was thinking about the Isc causing my problems?

The ISC only controls idle speed. Unplug it and adjust your idle with the BISS and forget about the ISC, they are always shot, and when they go out, they take out the drivers in the ECU so even a new one won't work. If everything else is working correctly, idle should be fairly consistent without a working ISC. You just have to up the idle RPM a couple hundred to make up for it dropping when the A/C kicks in.

When you do a log WOT log, don't log ISC or trims because it just slows the logging down.

 

[ryu 2042]

The ISC only controls idle speed.

i realize that but as i've read on here they can cause the O2 sensor to read lean and i was just wondering if it could cause a domino type of situation where the lean O2 sensor would screw my O2 and fuel trims... but i can just take it out and not have one at all? As long as i adjust the biss correctly?

 

[jrohner]

i realize that but as i've read on here they can cause the O2 sensor to read lean and i was just wondering if it could cause a domino type of situation where the lean O2 sensor would screw my O2 and fuel trims... but i can just take it out and not have one at all? As long as i adjust the biss correctly?

You can't take out the ISC without a blockoff plate, you just leave it unplugged. If the idle is extremely inconsistent, then the FIAV in your throttlebody is not working correctly. The FIAV is just a valve (kind of like a thermostat) that is open when the coolant temp is low so your idle isn't extremely low when cold / high when warmed up.