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Act 2600 or 2900? help me pick!

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talon187

20+ Year Contributor
1,043
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Feb 11, 2003
torrington, Connecticut
ok i ended up geting a built motor for my car. i was orginaly going to do a stock rebuild but i got somthing alot better at a nice price. i also have had my trans built at the same time. my orginal goal for my car was to run high 11s or low 12s and put out about 400-450 whp at max. now that has changed somewhat im going to now go for 500-550whp. my motor and trans havent gone back in the car yet. they will be going back in about 2 weeks or so. i can put a 2600 in or 2900 i have got a new street disk and my friend has both pressure plates. he told me i can eaither doesnt matter to him. he told me that he ran a 2900 in his race car and he had big time disengaugement problmes. i was wonder how stiff you guys thought the clutch was and your experineces with it. im also replacing the master and salve cycildners and going with a steel braied clutch line. any input would be a great help
 
They both will do the job. I've had both and I love my 2900 with a street disk its lighter and less chatter.
 
Go with the 2900 if these are the only options on the table right now.

Just be warned, I would really reccomend getting away from an organic "street" disk, and stepping up to a full kevlar disk, or a multidisk clutch assembly.

A good kevlar disk that handled up to 600whp on my car was the South Bend Clutch Kevlar sprung disk:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/South_Bend/Clutch/Clutch_Disks
Mitsubishi Eclipse-Talon 95-99
TZ series Straight Kevlar - Turbo P/N#: 71516

This setup with a 2600 or 2900 pressure plate will last, and will handle alot of slippage and abuse while keeping excellent wear charactistics.

If you keep with an ACT street organic disk, the disk wear will become very noticable, and you will be replacing it regularly (more than once a season) if you are at the track alot.

When you step up to a twin-disk clutch assembly, I reccomend the Quartermaster 7.25" V-drive clutch with the PowerTrain Technologies (PTT) billet chromoly single-piece flywheel. The entire assembly weighs around 12#, and has excellent disengagement characteristics. Your tranny will be happy that you made the purchase, as you will drastically reduce your misshifts from disengagement issues, and your gears/synchros will love you for a clutch that does its job correctly. They will last longer, and provide you with more time inbetween transmission rebuilds.

Mine is from Adam D. of DevoTuning in Illinois:
http://www.devotuning.com/dsm2g/dsm2g-drivetrain.html

Slowboy Racing sells a near-identical setup with a PowerTrain Technologies (PTT) pressure plate:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=6002&cat=4670&page=1
 
ok well right now i wont be at the track untill next year ive redone the car from ground up. with the motor and trans. im trying to finsh up the body now alittle hard with full time work and school. right now im running a 13b, and no its not an automatic i dont think ill be daily driving it after i put 3-4k miles but with my new job i dont even go 300 miles in 2 weeks so yeah... thanks for the input has anyone had any disengaugment issues with the 2900 ?
 
Go with the 2900 if these are the only options on the table right now.

Just be warned, I would really reccomend getting away from an organic "street" disk, and stepping up to a full kevlar disk, or a multidisk clutch assembly.

A good kevlar disk that handled up to 600whp on my car was the South Bend Clutch Kevlar sprung disk:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/South_Bend/Clutch/Clutch_Disks
Mitsubishi Eclipse-Talon 95-99
TZ series Straight Kevlar - Turbo P/N#: 71516

I just bought the 2900 pressure plate with that disk... Was the kevlar disk you ran different than the one in that picture on horsepowerfreaks? What I got looks to be segmented kevlar.
 
There should be a continuous outer ring approx 3/8" wide, with 1" wide segments around the disk on both sides.

If you need reassurance, I can take a pic of an old one I have on my shelf in the garage.
 
I like the 2900 pp better than the 2600, it has a whole lot less harsh of a pedal and a whole lot more clamping force.
 
There should be a continuous outer ring approx 3/8" wide, with 1" wide segments around the disk on both sides.

If you need reassurance, I can take a pic of an old one I have on my shelf in the garage.

Thanks... I got the right one then. Now i just need the built transmission to go along with it
 
U should talk to jon at TRE he will tell you the limits of the dsm transmissions and how to keep em alive. I am getting mine built and will have it back in 2 weeks. He says that the 2600 with a street disc is good for 10s and is perfectly matched for the transmission tolerences. In other words the clutch should be the same strength or a bit weaker than the transmission. The 2600lb clutch is a proven high 10 second clutch if properly adjusted and in good working order. I'd rather beat up a clutch than a transmission any day.
 
The only thing i havent done to my tranmssion is doubble syrcons and a lock welded diff
 
U should talk to jon at TRE he will tell you the limits of the dsm transmissions and how to keep em alive. I am getting mine built and will have it back in 2 weeks. He says that the 2600 with a street disc is good for 10s and is perfectly matched for the transmission tolerences. In other words the clutch should be the same strength or a bit weaker than the transmission. The 2600lb clutch is a proven high 10 second clutch if properly adjusted and in good working order. I'd rather beat up a clutch than a transmission any day.
^^^ I second this post.

I just left Jon's shop a few hours ago. He vividly explained the above post to me.

In a nutshell, it's not good to run a gigantic, heavy pressure plate when you have an aggressive disc with a higher heat coefficient. All the 2900 PP is going to do it cause more heat with one of those kevlar or ceramic discs, and it will result in warping. With those discs, more pressure plate just isn't needed.

If you are going to use a kevlar or ceramic pad disc, stick with the 2600 PP.
If you are going to use the 2900 PP, then opt for a non-copper street disc.

(I'd recommend the first option.)
 
The only thing i havent done to my tranmssion is doubble syrcons and a lock welded diff
So you have straight-cut, billet gears?

OE cast gears aren't and never will be perfect. It's easy to point out flaws, imperfections, and inclusions in the casting on damaged and demolished gear teeth. You'd be surprised at how many you can find. These trannys aren't bulletproof, even when built by the top names.

Would you rather your fuse the the gear box or your clutch? Think about it for a second and then refer back to post #10.....
 
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