A/F meter help

[tsi009]

I have thsi A?F meter which got like 5 wires. 3 wires in a set and other 2 in a set. colors are grey, black, red together in a set; other 2 colors are red and black w/ red stripe. I follow instruction to install them but only show 3 wires connect to ECU. It wont work. Pls help...what other 2 wires need to connect to any thing?

 

[snowborder714]

Most likely the other two wires are power and ground. The black is most likely the ground and the red is most likely a power (which should be tapped into any accessory power, such as the cigarette lighter).

 

[tsi009]

Thnks bro, other thing is when i tap red wire into the ECU as Road and Racing Engineering said for power, is the color of the wire white? Shall it be red?

 

[Supa Dexta]

what brand is it? You give us as much info as you can and we give you answers, or point you in the right direction for them,

 

[tsi009]

I dun knwo ### there is no brand on it, i think it autometer...with 5 wires

 

[snowborder714]

Thnks bro, other thing is when i tap red wire into the ECU as Road and Racing Engineering said for power, is the color of the wire white? Shall it be red?

The color could be anything. Do you know the specific spot where the wire needs to be tapped into? If so, take a look at this link and find the input that you were told. It will tell you the color of the wire as well.

ECU Wiring Information

Edit: Could you both please fill in your profiles so that we can help you out better?

 

[snowborder714]

I dun knwo ### there is no brand on it, i think it autometer...with 5 wires

Does it say anything on the gauge (front or back)? Anything at all? Or better yet, post up a picture.

 

[tsi009]

thnsk guy, i think i tap the power wire to a wrong color on the ECu harness. I will change ti to a red wire. BTW ### about other set of wires? shall i tap it into any power source? and ground it out?

 

[snowborder714]

thnsk guy, i think i tap the power wire to a wrong color on the ECu harness. I will change ti to a red wire. BTW ### about other set of wires? shall i tap it into any power source? and ground it out?

If you're talking about the other red and black wires, do as I already told you and try putting the red to an accessory power wire and ground the black. Just use a voltmeter to find an accessory power wire (which means it won't see voltage with the key out but will see it when you turn it to Accessory).

 

[tsi009]

Yes, I got the A/F meter to work but the light going from red to yellow to green constantly while iam cruising and some time red when i slowing down. only green when iam at WOT. I have no major mod beside filter, aftermarket cat and 2.5" exhaust. Is that normal or my O2 sensor bad. Help guys.... Thnks

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, I got the A/F meter to work but the light going from red to yellow to green constantly while iam cruising and some time red when i slowing down. only green when iam at WOT. I have no major mod beside filter, aftermarket cat and 2.5" exhaust. Is that normal or my O2 sensor bad. Help guys.... Thnks

That's perfectly normal! Glad to hear you got it working.

The reason it cycles back and forth between lean (red) and rich (green) is because the ECU is always trying to get it in the stoich (between red and green) area. This is the optimal air to fuel ratio, as seen by the ECU. So if you're just cruising, it will be doing this. When you're slowing down, it will be sitting in lean (red) because you are most likely not pushing the gas pedal down. This will cause no fuel to be put in so it will see lean. And it will go to rich (green) when you're WOT because it's dumping a lot of fuel in. As long as you don't see it sitting on lean or rich when you're cruising, you're fine.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

So.. in short... it's basically telling you that your car is running. CONGRATS!

 

[architechnik]

Do you actually have a wide band O2 sensor or have you just hooked up the meter to the stock narrowband?
If this is the case, the cycle will continue, but if you switch to a wideband then it will give you continuous, steady readings without the continuous fluctuation.

 

[snowborder714]

Since he said he tapped into the ECU, I'm going to guess he's just using the stock O2 (narrowband) sensor. I've never heard of anyone hooking up a wideband sensor to a "light show" air/fuel gauge. Would that even be possible?

 

[talonalex92]

Since he said he tapped into the ECU, I'm going to guess he's just using the stock O2 (narrowband) sensor. I've never heard of anyone hooking up a wideband sensor to a "light show" air/fuel gauge. Would that even be possible?

I was just wondering that as I read this!

 

[snowborder714]

The only thing is though, a lot of people who run a wideband, don't run a gauge for it. They just monitor it by their engine management system.

 

[talonalex92]

I dont..sadly, and if this is a cheaper alternative than the AEM wideband, someone pleeaaaase inform me.

 

[snowborder714]

I dont..sadly, and if this is a cheaper alternative than the AEM wideband, someone pleeaaaase inform me.

Well, I'm not sure what you consider a 'cheaper alternative'. This is a completely different setup than the AEM wideband. An air/fuel gauge monitors a stock O2 sensor which is narrowband. They are good to see simply how your engine is running - normal, really lean, really rich, etc. They can't be used for tuning since they're inaccurate (and they don't give you an actual number for your ratio). If you want something cheap, then get an air/fuel gauge. If you want something functional and that can be used for tuning, get a wideband setup.

 

[talonalex92]

Chilllll. Dont flame me. You said, most people who run a wideband, dont run a gauge and monitor it by their EMS of choice. I followed with, I dont [meaning I run the gauge] And I said, if replacing the stock o2 sensor with a wideband, and hooking it to the narrowband gauge. Thats the cheaper alternative than my aem. Continue.

 

[snowborder714]

Chilllll. Dont flame me. You said, most people who run a wideband, dont run a gauge and monitor it by their EMS of choice. I followed with, I dont [meaning I run the gauge] And I said, if replacing the stock o2 sensor with a wideband, and hooking it to the narrowband gauge. Thats the cheaper alternative than my aem. Continue.

I wasn't flaming you. Maybe I just misread your original post. So, you have a narrowband gauge. Do you have it hooked up to the stock O2 sensor or a wideband sensor? OR, are you asking if it'll work if trying to hook up to a wideband sensor?

If you're asking if it'll work to hook up your narrowband gauge to a wideband sensor, I believe the answer is no as there are more wires in a wideband than in a narrowband (5 vs. 4, I believe). If not, please correct me and let me know what you're question is.

 

[talonalex92]

I wasn't flaming you. Maybe I just misread your original post. So, you have a narrowband gauge. Do you have it hooked up to the stock O2 sensor or a wideband sensor? OR, are you asking if it'll work if trying to hook up to a wideband sensor?

If you're asking if it'll work to hook up your narrowband gauge to a wideband sensor, I believe the answer is no as there are more wires in a wideband than in a narrowband (5 vs. 4, I believe). If not, please correct me and let me know what you're question is.

There we go, now were on the same page. I run the AEM personally, and Im willing to bet just about everyone on here has a narrowband sensor laying around that they bought at some point. I was asking if you could hook it to the wideband sensor and make a cheaper alternative to the aem unit.

 

[turbosax2]

If you're asking if it'll work to hook up your narrowband gauge to a wideband sensor, I believe the answer is no as there are more wires in a wideband than in a narrowband (5 vs. 4, I believe). If not, please correct me and let me know what you're question is.

I also believe you can't use a wbo2 sensor with a narrowband gauge (at least without advanced electrical knowledge), but it's because the gauges are hooked up to the sensor completely different. For a narrowband gauge only 1 wire from the gauge is spliced into the signal wire from the nbo2 sensor. For a wideband gauge, the way it connects to the sender will vary depending on what sensor and what gauge you have, but it is a plug and play affair because the gauge and sender will have connectors on the ends and are meant to work with one another.

If you look at these directions, you will see what I am talking about:
Wideband: http://autometer.com/productPDF/1143A.pdf
Narrowband: http://autometer.com/productPDF/0837L.pdf

 

[talonalex92]

Good point out! Too bad though.

 

[tsi009]

Working on DSM is so great, feeling liek i learn soemthing new every day for a 28 yrs old guy.. another weird thing.. my car wont start after i take it for a spin to test out my new Boost gauge and A?F meter. It ran great then when i got home and try to turn it back on it wont respond. it just making no cranking sound at all. All light works, stereo work, head light work... pls help..Oh is it maybe i tap my boostgauge into a dimmer switch?

 

[turbosax2]

Working on DSM is so great, feeling liek i learn soemthing new every day for a 28 yrs old guy.. another weird thing.. my car wont start after i take it for a spin to test out my new Boost gauge and A?F meter. It ran great then when i got home and try to turn it back on it wont respond. it just making no cranking sound at all. All light works, stereo work, head light work... pls help..Oh is it maybe i tap my boostgauge into a dimmer switch?

1. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter.
2. Are you pressing the clutch in all the way while you're trying to start it? If you haven't already, disable the Clutch Safety Switch.

Under the dash on the clutch pedal assembly, there is a switch that will only allow the car to be turned on if the clutch is pushed in. Just unplug this so that you can start the car without touching the clutch, it's better for the thrust bearing. The plug is on the front side of the clutch pedal assembly, so that it is only pressed when the clutch is all the way in.

3. Check the important fuses in your fuse box.
4. Check all the wires going to your battery to make sure there is no corrosion and they are all tight.

Tapping your boost gauge into the dimmer switch wouldn't cause your car not to start.