The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

98 Eclipse dying after start

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Inkdlyfe

Proven Member
438
8
Feb 23, 2016
Summer feild, Florida
Ok i been doing alot of research trying to figure out why is been doing this and i havnt been able to pin point the reason behind this so here is the story.
i bought my 1998 RS 420A Y with a built on turbo this is not a stock turbo eclipse and i bought the car like this im not sure what has been done to it when i got the car i needed to install a clutch so it didnt move but it fired up right away and idled fine no problems at all besides the narrow band would sit at rich then bound to lean and go back and forth didn't really have a set place it wanted to stay,,, after getting the clutch in it drove amazing for the first like 200 miles with strong power for sure ,,, then the engine light came on.. it came on for the -4th cylinder injector having malfunctions -number 1 bank o2 not reading and then the -Map sensor having a high voltage, drove it like that for bout another 200 miles and it just progressively got worse i guess you could say got it rechecked by auto zone after flying thru 3 map sensors :( it then only threw the map senor code not the other 2 like before i did some web surfing and found this missing link shiii i got that and now the check engine light isnt on but its still acting up.. by acting up this is what i mean if i go out there now (a cold start) i would crank it and it would reve up on its own then die then do it again ill assist it to reve up and then it will try to die but bound 200 rpms to 800 rpms and have a strong smell of gas and smoke coming from the engine but if i hold the throttle open a few seconds later ill build boost and hit 7000rpms easy but then fall all the way back to 200 rpms maybe even dies,,, now if i can get the car to drive every time i come to a stop the car wants to die but fire right back up easy but gotta help the rpms up again... while im just casually driving the car sounds like a helicopter has a constant pop noose like back fire and dont really have any get up to it but when boost hits in it will act fine but not really move like 10 lbs of boost should make you move... not sure what the problem is and its really puzzling me cuz it drove fine when i got it and just slowly got worse and worse,,,

i deleted the EGR and all that thinking it would help some but that didint do anything no harm or help there.... anything else i could look for ?

i noticed the fuel pump is really loud ?
im recently running thru alot of gas... LIKE ALOT?
 
Heres the engine everything is the same besides the egr is removed the the AEM controller is no longer linkes into the BOV its not linked to its own vacc sorce
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Could be an airflow issue. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If you can get it to idle without completely dying then try checking for vacuum leaks by spraying brake/carb cleaner on vacuum hoses and around the intake. If there is a leak, you will hear a definite change in the idle or you may stall the car out if it is a big enough leak. It may be worth checking the TPS, IAC (sounds like it may be stuck closed), and the ECU. I'd just start doing some basic diagnosing to try and start eliminating possible causes.
 
Could be an airflow issue. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If you can get it to idle without completely dying then try checking for vacuum leaks by spraying brake/carb cleaner on vacuum hoses and around the intake. If there is a leak, you will hear a definite change in the idle or you may stall the car out if it is a big enough leak. It may be worth checking the TPS, IAC (sounds like it may be stuck closed), and the ECU. I'd just start doing some basic diagnosing to try and start eliminating possible causes.
i might be a vacc leak but im not all that sure...
i just got done driving it and im eating up alot of gas and running very rich like you can smell gas very strong in side the car,, it dont wanna die as bad now after cleaning off the spark plugs but still seems like it wants to die tho
 
i might be a vacc leak but im not all that sure...
i just got done driving it and im eating up alot of gas and running very rich like you can smell gas very strong in side the car,, it dont wanna die as bad now after cleaning off the spark plugs but still seems like it wants to die tho
Unplug your TPS and start the car. If the issue still occurs then check your fuel pressure regulator to see if it is still doing its job. I agree, its probably not your ECU, but it could be... just less likely.
 
Unplug your TPS and start the car. If the issue still occurs then check your fuel pressure regulator to see if it is still doing its job. I agree, its probably not your ECU, but it could be... just less likely.
unplug the tps and see if the car still wants to die? see i was thinking tps cuz when you hit WOT it seems like its sow to pick it up and dont wanna do nothing but then go like at some points youll be giving it throttle and its just sitting there not doing anything and i have a fuel psi near my cc under the hood it sits at 35 psi and hit 40 when giving it gas is that normal ?
could there be a possibility its a fuel problem if im still getting 40 psi?
 
Unplug your TPS and start the car. If the issue still occurs then check your fuel pressure regulator to see if it is still doing its job. I agree, its probably not your ECU, but it could be... just less likely.
ok so i disconnected the tps and it didnt make no differance but im not throwing a cel for the tps?
 
What size Injectors are you running, and is that gauge before or after your FPR or is it the stock FPR on Rail ?
im not all that sure about the size of the injectors them selfs but there my precision,, and the fuel pressure gauge is on the left side of the fuel rail by the first injector
 
alright so i went and got a new o2 sensor and um do i need like some special sensor to go with my faze A/F gauge?? its a narrow band not a wide band basiically a light show..
 
the narrow band isnt gonna show you a whole lot.

it sounds like you have a fuel issue. what is the fuel setup on this? would be a good idea to find out what pump, injectors and whether it has a FMU or AFPR.

also, could you attempt to use a little better grammar and sentence structure? its very hard to decipher your issues based on what youve typed previously.
 
my bad i was probably tired when i posted the previous one but how do you correctly install a narrowband ? there is 2 wires red green and black where do these wires go to? and what do the wires on the o2 sensor mean you have 2 white wires a grey one and a black one right now all 3 wires from the narrow band are wired into the o2 sensor its self the red wire is going to one if the white wires the black is going to the grey and the green is going to the black this was previously wired up not by me i just went to auto zone and got a new factory o2 sensor and wired it up it started a few mins ago but now it dont wanna start i am getting 40 psi of fuel to the car but its not wanting to fire is it possible that my plugs are THAT bad?
 
Ok so the reasoning for the orginal problem i was having was due to spark plugs the ones for a 420A Y where rated for 6 for temp i went and got ones rated for 8 and it fired up right away!!! now running into another problem im bout to make a new post about
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top