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95 DSM RPM Issue

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mattsuperman

Probationary Member
7
0
Nov 2, 2009
Salt Lake, Utah
Hello all.
I have had my DSM for about 2 years now. Recently my car has been having some RPM issues. Today when I was driving to work I was on the freeway and I was in 4th gear and I was at 4000rpm so I shifted into neutral and cruzed but as i shifted into neutral my rpm started to drop all the ### to 0 and stalled my car. The Oil Light, Brake light and Battery Light popped on. I popped the clucth and it started right back up but now after every shift if i dont give it gas it will drop to 0 and stall the car.
I have no clue what it could be. I am only running ~10lbs of boost. Any idea or suggestions.
 
Start by checking the MAS connection. Also need to know if you BOV is recirculated? The BOV not being recir. can cause the car to stall when shifting. The lights on the dash are normal when the engine dies.
 
The MAS is connected securly.
The BOV is recirulated as I read it was good for the stock MAF.
When the car dies everything stays lit. It may dim a little bit but nothing horrible that i can tell.
My idle is about 900rpm.
 
Not only will it stall but it will ruin your turbo. Compressor surge is a biotch.
 
Mine started doing the same thing and I still have to figure it out. It is very annoying, hopefully I'll know by Monday or Tuesday but in the meanwhile check for vacuum leaks.
 
One thing to look into is a dying alternator, voltage regulator will really F stuff up when it goes. Take a multimeter and hold it on the battery, have a friend rev the car up and hold it at say 3k rpms while you watch what the voltage is. It should stop at a certain number, if they can rev the car and the voltage keeps going up your regulator is bad. Also when did you install your radio?
 
One thing to look into is a dying alternator, voltage regulator will really F stuff up when it goes. Take a multimeter and hold it on the battery, have a friend rev the car up and hold it at say 3k rpms while you watch what the voltage is. It should stop at a certain number, if they can rev the car and the voltage keeps going up your regulator is bad. Also when did you install your radio?

The radio has been in the car since day one. I removed my sub and amp and Capacitor. This is the first time i have turned the lights on in a few days. So it must be a electrical issue.
I recently had a bunch of oil on the under belly of my car and i did clean it by using the power washer just on the bottom and not the engine bay. I cleaned places like the wheel wells and so forth.
 
Did you get oil on the alternator? Then did you spray said oil off the alternator with the power washer? ROFL
 
The radio has been in the car since day one. I removed my sub and amp and Capacitor. This is the first time i have turned the lights on in a few days. So it must be a electrical issue.

I recently had a bunch of oil on the under belly of my car and i did clean it by using the power washer just on the bottom and not the engine bay. I cleaned places like the wheel wells and so forth.

:hmm: That's interesting, because mine had oil under the belly from bad valve stem seals and my car sat for 4 days during a clutch install. On another note, I had the car cranked today with a battery charger hooked up and it had the same "stalling out" issue. I have a voltmeter mounted inside my car and it read constant between 13.8 and 14.2v. Check your volts while you rev the engine, if it fluctuates then you can start looking at a battery/alternator issue.
 
:hmm: That's interesting, because mine had oil under the belly from bad valve stem seals and my car sat for 4 days during a clutch install. On another note, I had the car cranked today with a battery charger hooked up and it had the same "stalling out" issue.

I'd put money on the alternator also, battery charger doesn't crank out enough to continually power the battery like an alternator does. :thumb:
 
I'd put money on the alternator also, battery charger doesn't crank out enough to continually power the battery like an alternator does. :thumb:

The charger was set to 40 amps to charge first for about 20 mins. I hope the oil didn't kill the alternator. What I don't understand is how the car started stalling after was rev'ed after it sat for 4 days... unless the battery got low, and the alternator had to work harder to charge it, which somehow killed the alternator cause of the oil. I paid $250 for the damn thing about 4 years ago, I hope it's not that. :(

Besides, if it is a bad alternator, why am I not getting the infamous battery + brake light that trips when the voltage regulator goes bad? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...55-alternator-issues-brake-battery-light.html

It is possible that both the OP and me had the battery drain, and due to a lack of constant voltage, the RPMs are going crazy... but that means my Optima Red took a dump on me!
 
Last edited:
I've actually never had the lights come on when mine died on either my 2g or my 1g.
 
Did you get oil on the alternator? Then did you spray said oil off the alternator with the power washer? ROFL

No I didnt spray the alternator. Can Oil kill the Alternator though? Im going to throw my volt meter on the battery and have someone rev it up and see what happens.
So I tested my with my multimeter and when there car was off it was at 12.45. When i turned the car on without the lights it was at 15.25. when the lights were on it was at 14.4. I also rev'd it up and i didnt see it going up. it actually would fluctuate up and down roughly ~ .2.
 
The lights are only a 2G thing and usually signal a bad voltage regulator, from what I know.
On my 2g the voltage regulator was actually out for over a month and never popped the light (only the CEL).

No I didnt spray the alternator. Can Oil kill the Alternator though? Im going to throw my volt meter on the battery and have someone rev it up and see what happens.
So I tested my with my multimeter and when there car was off it was at 12.45. When i turned the car on without the lights it was at 15.25. when the lights were on it was at 14.4. I also rev'd it up and i didnt see it going up. it actually would fluctuate up and down roughly ~ .2.

Oil is one of the quickest ways to kill an alternator. I'd pull it and get it on a load bench tester. :thumb:
 
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