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94 talon N/T dirt oval track car

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mitchellling14

10+ Year Contributor
37
1
Dec 23, 2009
millersburg, Ohio
I will post pics later tonight. I have already built 4 cars in the past so I hope I will be able to teach you some of my mistakes. I will not include every thing in my thread due to not wanting other local racers to know my knowledge so if some thing looks out of place pm me about it. I will be doing alot to the suspension geometry of the car and motor work. My motor is already built but I have another one I will be doing up. I will also do a big section on electrical eliminations since this was a super time consuming thing to do the first time.

My Names Mitch
 
This is the car at the end of its street life

She was a ok street car not the best though she is ready to start her dream as a dsm though and thats to kick some hondas butts on a legal feild of racing

There is still alot more gutting to go still about 150 more pounds to cut off. Notice that theres is not a wire left in the car. I will not have any wires left from the dash harness when im done. I will just have the main motor harness and some toggle switches and push button start.

A couple things I left inside will be all the pedals,steering wheel, shifting linkage and the emergency brake it can be nice on really small tracks. Also where the fuel pump wires come into the drivers side of the chassis I cut the wires right of at the plug in those are the only wires left in the car now. Later I will wire them directly up to a toggle switch as required by local rules.

In the engine bay you can see I left the overflow tank which is vital since we have alot of problems with cars over heating and cant buy a $400 radiator since they get smashed alot. You will also see I cut the power steering lines I will loop them together later there for eliminting the power steering. The engine bay also still needs more work.
 

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Nice and very interested in your build

I actually received a lot of help from oval tracks guys many years ago, when I was building a FIREARROW for RR, 2.6- 2.0 motors.
You have not listed what engine you will go with, I know you dont want to let cats out of the bag.
 
Obviously a 4g63 :hellyeah:

What other engine would you want to go with? They just recently reset the stock 6 bolt record to 740hp. I wouldn't even be worried about running 400 for extended periods. (not sure if you're keeping it NA or not)
 
You ever do any racing at the Fremont speedway in Ohio? would love to see it in action.
 
Obviously a 4g63 :hellyeah:

What other engine would you want to go with? They just recently reset the stock 6 bolt record to 740hp. I wouldn't even be worried about running 400 for extended periods. (not sure if you're keeping it NA or not)

Not so obvious, I am sure he does not want or need that kind of power.

On the NA are you asking me or him, I am guessing in his case NA.

Remember that sometimes class rules make you go with different size engines.
 
The motor I already have built is a 4g63 block but its a very speacial and rare block not out of talons or eclipses want to know more details PM me with the 4g63 head. A local track just posted there scedule to start racing may 4th. They were previously not supposed to run this year. There rules are pretty open as long as the car weighs 2300 pounds and it is non turbo so yes ill be NA. The last car I took up there was 1900 pounds with driver so i had to scramble to find weight that night. Since this track is opening up I will post alot more about my motor.

Ok now to the motors specs this is off the top my head so ill miss alot of things

I have the exaust side ported but the intake is left stock port but is roughed up the reason I did this is I think there is already to much air coming into it since its non turbo. for cams I have turbo cams. The valves are 1mm oversized on intake side and 2mm oversized on exaust side. It has titanium retainers and BC springs. I had the throttle body done by throttlebodys.com. They bored it out to the max size and put a halfshaft mod in it and also has a blockoff plate. I asked them to leave the outside of the throttle body dirty so no one sees its done up and they did they worked with me absoluty great I highly recommend them. I have a hks timing belt with hks adjustable gears

The bottom end is just stock rebuild but thats all she needs considering her stroke is not 88mm
 
Been very busy last couple days so havent done much. On monday I plan on getting windsheild out, then ill work on tearing out sound deading material on floor boards which i have a way that makes that part easy ill show you. Then I plan on grinding off that white glue in a couple spots and reweld the seems to add more front end strenght to the car at the strut towers after I bend the car to my specification. In front of the strut towers I will take a hole saw and cut some holes in the frame. I do this because I try very hard to keep the cars geometry the same as what im going to modify it to by drilling the holes it will allow the car to smash the front end before it tweaks the strut towers any. I would rather do that and reweld a whole new front end on then build a new car because the towers got tweaked. I will try posting pics by wensday.

Been very busy last couple days so havent done much. On monday I plan on getting windsheild out, then ill work on tearing out sound deading material on floor boards which i have a way that makes that part easy ill show you. Then I plan on grinding off that white glue in a couple spots and reweld the seems to add more front end strenght to the car at the strut towers after I bend the car to my specification. In front of the strut towers I will take a hole saw and cut some holes in the frame. I do this because I try very hard to keep the cars geometry the same as what im going to modify it to by drilling the holes it will allow the car to smash the front end before it tweaks the strut towers any. I would rather do that and reweld a whole new front end on then build a new car because the towers got tweaked. I will try posting pics by wensday.

I fogot to say I will also be taking out all the spot welded stuff in the car like the rear strut tower brace for example and I will also start torching out around the spare tire well in the rear of the car
 
Been very busy last couple days so havent done much. On monday I plan on getting windsheild out, then ill work on tearing out sound deading material on floor boards which i have a way that makes that part easy ill show you. Then I plan on grinding off that white glue in a couple spots and reweld the seems to add more front end strenght to the car at the strut towers after I bend the car to my specification. In front of the strut towers I will take a hole saw and cut some holes in the frame. I do this because I try very hard to keep the cars geometry the same as what im going to modify it to by drilling the holes it will allow the car to smash the front end before it tweaks the strut towers any. I would rather do that and reweld a whole new front end on then build a new car because the towers got tweaked. I will try posting pics by wensday.



I fogot to say I will also be taking out all the spot welded stuff in the car like the rear strut tower brace for example and I will also start torching out around the spare tire well in the rear of the car

May I suggest before removing the rear brace, weld a brace to the top of the towers and when you cut do not remove the spot welds cut just outside of them, that will leave you with 2 layers of metal instead of 1, leave the very top of the rear brace, cut around the brace that goes up to the rear window and leave that brace there.
I am doing the same to mine, but not taking brace out until start of roll cage.
 
May I suggest before removing the rear brace, weld a brace to the top of the towers and when you cut do not remove the spot welds cut just outside of them, that will leave you with 2 layers of metal instead of 1, leave the very top of the rear brace, cut around the brace that goes up to the rear window and leave that brace there.
I am doing the same to mine, but not taking brace out until start of roll cage.

I dont want the strut towers to stay were they are at the very moment, this is because later I will be torching the frame of the car so that the left front is lower then the right front and the right rear is lower then the left rear. I already have a roll cage built when I put the cage in I have a strut tower brace welded to it I will keep the car torched how I want it until Im done welding roll cage to the car so the car cant flex back very much. The reason I torch the car is to make it set better on the track also to try to get the car to carry the left rear around the corner with out touching the ground this improves the handling of the car a tremendous amount. Ive let alot of people drive my car and never had any one say there car handled better LOL they all want to know what im doing to it to make it handle so well.
 
What kind of compression do you end up with when you put a 63 head on a 64 block? Gotta be pretty stout for stock parts :)
 
The way I read it, he still has a 4G63 block, I use the 4G64 block and pistons stock from a galant and get around 225 PSI on a very used engine (120,000 miles right out of wrench n'go for about $120)
 
Im terribly sorry guys computer took a crash on me...I have done a decent amount of work since my last post I will try to get pics up soon as possible I have now got the rollcage welded in and alot of litttle things done here and there
 
Im terribly sorry guys computer took a crash on me...I have done a decent amount of work since my last post I will try to get pics up soon as possible I have now got the rollcage welded in and alot of litttle things done here and there

Glad to hear you are back on line again, been looking forward to seeing news from you.
Post some pictures of your build to keep us going, still waiting on your engine build and I hope you PM me on that.
 
Sorry for not keeping up with this build on my journal some local guys found out about it so I stopped. I have now decided I don't care if they know cause I don't plan on staying in the dirt track mini stock seen a whole lot longer. Moving on to building a 1g rally car as soon as Im out of college.Since the last time I have posted I have finished the chassis for the car. I have also finished the motor and ran it three times and it runs extremely well considering the circumstances. How ever the motor did not go into the intended car it went into a old chassis just to finish off the season and see how it performed due to already knowing how to set up this car and not wanting to tear the new car up.
I will post some pics of the motor and chassis as soon as possible which should be in a few minutes.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/1/1/4/2/4/3/img_0006_2.jpg

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/1/1/4/2/4/3/img_0006_2.jpg
 
I run a 93 at my local track, good to see someone else in to dirt racing.
 
You guys are lucky to be able to run these cars at the dirt track. Around here they won't let us us a dsm.[

No DSM or no DOHC? Around hear it used to be a rule you couldn't run v-tecs but now you can. Rules are pretty open now depending on track but every tracks a lot different around hear.

I run a 93 at my local track, good to see someone else in to dirt racing.

If you were closer id try to sell every thing to you LOL. I absolutely love Dirt track racing I grew up around sprint cars so its in my blood, but im sick of all the changing rules and guys in our class whining so much that tracks have no idea what to do. Also sick of a few tracks letting people get so rough seems like every time I go out some one tears me up mostly 2 different guys I understand accidents but a guy getting you side ways during caution and nailing the gas as hard as he can when he gets you side ways in front of him for trying to challenge your position cause he took you out in the first place and the owner kicking you out cause that guys his friend is ridiculous. To add on to it two weeks prior the guy pushed a girl to the ground and started kicking her and not getting in trouble that's how some of our local tracks are ran so im done with it.

just wondering how much does it weight all striped out

The car weighs 1850Ibs with a full fuel tank and no driver and I could eliminate another 150Ibs pretty easy If I had the time $300 and patients

What kind of compression do you end up with when you put a 63 head on a 64 block? Gotta be pretty stout for stock parts :)

over 300psi of compression is the best I can tell you LOL.

What kind of compression do you end up with when you put a 63 head on a 64 block? Gotta be pretty stout for stock parts :)

over 300psi of compression is the best I can tell you LOL.
 
Your engine combo sounds exactly like what I'm after now. Just trying to track down the block and crank at least. I'd be interested in seeing what kind of power yours lays down. What head are you running??
 
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