Calan
DSM Wiseman
- 7,251
- 363
- Jan 16, 2007
-
OKC,
Oklahoma
Well after a lot of thought, I decided not to relocate my battery. My excuses include too much stuff already coming through the firewall, potential NHRA tech problems, cost, screwing with my interior, etc. etc. But while looking into it, I started getting some ideas for power distribution and that crazy mess of wiring connected to the battery.
While sourcing parts I came across a 3-in/4-out fused distribution block, which is exactly what I needed to get rid of an extra fuse (for my stereo amp) and to get rid of all the multiple battery connections. The one I found is a Bluewave unit, available from TTI.
View attachment 762
At only $13, I figured why not. If it doesn’t hold up, it’s not like I’m out a lot of coin. (I think it will be fine, but I can always make an insulated cover for it if needed).
The first step was figuring out where and how to mount it. I wanted it to be accessible, but also neat and non-intrusive. What I ended up doing was modifying the battery bracket and mounting the block vertically in front of the battery. This puts it in an ideal place for the wiring connections, and is out of the way but yet within easy reach for fuse replacement.
I started by mocking up the new bracket with some cardboard and hot glue, and tweaked it until I thought it was about right. I strapped my UIC/GM MAF and catch can in place to check for clearance, and studied the wiring for a while to make sure it would work.
View attachment 771 View attachment 770 View attachment 769
I used 1/8†steel plate for the bracket, and added a small strip to the side as a gusset to help stabilize it a bit (even though it wasn’t really needed). It is basically an L-shaped extension to the stock battery tray that allows the fuse block to sit vertically. While I was at it, I also fixed something else that has always annoyed me; the battery hold-down. I worked around this by welding two beefy tabs to the passenger side of the bracket. My Optima red-top fits snugly under these and is held down on the drivers side at the bottom by the clamp that came with the battery. Tada! Invisible battery hold-down.
View attachment 775 View attachment 767 View attachment 776
I don’t trust the small plastic mounting tabs on the distribution block all that much, so I drilled and countersunk an additional mounting hole in the middle of it as well. I made sure the mounting surface of the bracket was as flat as possible, and then drilled matching holes in the bracket and threaded them for 8-32 screws. I'll use nuts on the back side of the bracket as well to lock the threads once it goes on for good.
View attachment 763 View attachment 764
Once the block was screwed to the bracket, I bolted the tray in place to check clearances and fitment one more time, and then started on the wiring.
View attachment 778 View attachment 777
After stripping about ¾†of insulation off of each wire, I soldered them to eliminate any fraying. (The MFI wire was actually too small and wouldn’t tighten up in the block, so I wrapped another wire around it and then soldered it.) For the alternator, I cut the two white wires coming off the fuse block to length, twisted them together tightly, and then soldered them. The alternator connects directly to the battery through the bottom inlet port; the battery will come in at the top and the starter will be off the side port. (The battery and starter cables aren’t shown in the pictures).
View attachment 773 View attachment 774
Some low-gloss black paint to match the engine bay, some heat shrink, and a bit of wire loom wrapped it up. While in the area, I also got a few more of the harness wires wrapped and moved to their final resting place. Once I get the motor and tranny installed, I’ll run the starter wire along with the grounds and solenoid wire to the harness.
View attachment 768 View attachment 779
That’s it for now boys and girls.
Stay tuned!
While sourcing parts I came across a 3-in/4-out fused distribution block, which is exactly what I needed to get rid of an extra fuse (for my stereo amp) and to get rid of all the multiple battery connections. The one I found is a Bluewave unit, available from TTI.
View attachment 762
At only $13, I figured why not. If it doesn’t hold up, it’s not like I’m out a lot of coin. (I think it will be fine, but I can always make an insulated cover for it if needed).
The first step was figuring out where and how to mount it. I wanted it to be accessible, but also neat and non-intrusive. What I ended up doing was modifying the battery bracket and mounting the block vertically in front of the battery. This puts it in an ideal place for the wiring connections, and is out of the way but yet within easy reach for fuse replacement.
I started by mocking up the new bracket with some cardboard and hot glue, and tweaked it until I thought it was about right. I strapped my UIC/GM MAF and catch can in place to check for clearance, and studied the wiring for a while to make sure it would work.
View attachment 771 View attachment 770 View attachment 769
I used 1/8†steel plate for the bracket, and added a small strip to the side as a gusset to help stabilize it a bit (even though it wasn’t really needed). It is basically an L-shaped extension to the stock battery tray that allows the fuse block to sit vertically. While I was at it, I also fixed something else that has always annoyed me; the battery hold-down. I worked around this by welding two beefy tabs to the passenger side of the bracket. My Optima red-top fits snugly under these and is held down on the drivers side at the bottom by the clamp that came with the battery. Tada! Invisible battery hold-down.
View attachment 775 View attachment 767 View attachment 776
I don’t trust the small plastic mounting tabs on the distribution block all that much, so I drilled and countersunk an additional mounting hole in the middle of it as well. I made sure the mounting surface of the bracket was as flat as possible, and then drilled matching holes in the bracket and threaded them for 8-32 screws. I'll use nuts on the back side of the bracket as well to lock the threads once it goes on for good.
View attachment 763 View attachment 764
Once the block was screwed to the bracket, I bolted the tray in place to check clearances and fitment one more time, and then started on the wiring.
View attachment 778 View attachment 777
After stripping about ¾†of insulation off of each wire, I soldered them to eliminate any fraying. (The MFI wire was actually too small and wouldn’t tighten up in the block, so I wrapped another wire around it and then soldered it.) For the alternator, I cut the two white wires coming off the fuse block to length, twisted them together tightly, and then soldered them. The alternator connects directly to the battery through the bottom inlet port; the battery will come in at the top and the starter will be off the side port. (The battery and starter cables aren’t shown in the pictures).
View attachment 773 View attachment 774
Some low-gloss black paint to match the engine bay, some heat shrink, and a bit of wire loom wrapped it up. While in the area, I also got a few more of the harness wires wrapped and moved to their final resting place. Once I get the motor and tranny installed, I’ll run the starter wire along with the grounds and solenoid wire to the harness.
View attachment 768 View attachment 779
That’s it for now boys and girls.
Stay tuned!
