Calan
DSM Wiseman
- 7,250
- 399
- Jan 16, 2007
-
OKC,
Oklahoma
Things are moving along fairly quickly now, but I still have some minor hurdles to get past. The biggest issue is that I still need to find a proper J-pipe and get my LICP welded up, and then get the fans/radiator in place and wired. But more on that in a later part...
The last few weeks have mostly been spent dealing with the bolt-on stuff. (SS lines, oil cooler, VC, etc). I also wrapped up a few more wiring issues including the CAS and TPS.
I decided to go with a '90 CAS that I took apart and reworked, so I wouldn't have a plug sticking out of the top. I also reversed the TPS so that it's plug would point downward, and mounted it with stainless socket-head screws so that it's easy to adjust. The bottom screw that is normally impossible to get to is now easily accessed with an allen wrench.
View attachment 1031 View attachment 1034
Next up was the oil cooler. For some reason, this little guy came with -10AN ports, which seemed really big and don't match up with the -8AN fittings on my filter housing. After looking into some type of adapter setup to get from -10AN to -8AN, I decided it would make much more sense to just convert the oil cooler ports to -8AN. A hacksaw and couple of weld bungs from Summit did the trick. Although it probably doesn't matter much, I flared the opening of the bungs with a counterbore to better match up with the -10AN diameter before welding them in place.
View attachment 1035 View attachment 1036
Once the fittings were figured out, I finished up the brackets and threw a coat of paint on it. I left the core natural to get as much cooling as I could out of it.
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After that it was just a matter of making up a couple of stainless lines and bolting it up. The cooler mounts to the front of the "frame" and sits directly behind the opening in the front lip, between the FMIC and WAI pump.
View attachment 1046 View attachment 1040
View attachment 1041
The valve cover was modified with a -6AN weld bung on the breather outlet, which is then routed to a catch can via a stainless line. To get the best fit possible, I sanded the bung to an angle on one side, and used a drill bit to keep it aligned with the factory port while it was tacked in place. After welding it up, it was ground and filled to blend in with the VC. The cover was then painted gloss black along with three coats of clear. (In the last pic below, you can also see how the TPS and CAS ended up).
View attachment 1042 View attachment 1043
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I also finished up the lines for the catch cans, and got the BOV painted and mounted. After bouncing around several ideas, I went with gloss black and a clear coat for the BOV top, which blended nicely with the rest of the bay but still pops just a bit. In the second pic below, you can also see where the catch can feeds into the intake snorkel I built (more on that in the next part).
View attachment 1033 View attachment 1032
I've got a lot of other stuff done as well, so the next part should be coming soon.
Stay tuned!
The last few weeks have mostly been spent dealing with the bolt-on stuff. (SS lines, oil cooler, VC, etc). I also wrapped up a few more wiring issues including the CAS and TPS.
I decided to go with a '90 CAS that I took apart and reworked, so I wouldn't have a plug sticking out of the top. I also reversed the TPS so that it's plug would point downward, and mounted it with stainless socket-head screws so that it's easy to adjust. The bottom screw that is normally impossible to get to is now easily accessed with an allen wrench.
View attachment 1031 View attachment 1034
Next up was the oil cooler. For some reason, this little guy came with -10AN ports, which seemed really big and don't match up with the -8AN fittings on my filter housing. After looking into some type of adapter setup to get from -10AN to -8AN, I decided it would make much more sense to just convert the oil cooler ports to -8AN. A hacksaw and couple of weld bungs from Summit did the trick. Although it probably doesn't matter much, I flared the opening of the bungs with a counterbore to better match up with the -10AN diameter before welding them in place.
View attachment 1035 View attachment 1036
Once the fittings were figured out, I finished up the brackets and threw a coat of paint on it. I left the core natural to get as much cooling as I could out of it.
View attachment 1037 View attachment 1038
After that it was just a matter of making up a couple of stainless lines and bolting it up. The cooler mounts to the front of the "frame" and sits directly behind the opening in the front lip, between the FMIC and WAI pump.
View attachment 1046 View attachment 1040
View attachment 1041
The valve cover was modified with a -6AN weld bung on the breather outlet, which is then routed to a catch can via a stainless line. To get the best fit possible, I sanded the bung to an angle on one side, and used a drill bit to keep it aligned with the factory port while it was tacked in place. After welding it up, it was ground and filled to blend in with the VC. The cover was then painted gloss black along with three coats of clear. (In the last pic below, you can also see how the TPS and CAS ended up).
View attachment 1042 View attachment 1043
View attachment 1044 View attachment 1047
I also finished up the lines for the catch cans, and got the BOV painted and mounted. After bouncing around several ideas, I went with gloss black and a clear coat for the BOV top, which blended nicely with the rest of the bay but still pops just a bit. In the second pic below, you can also see where the catch can feeds into the intake snorkel I built (more on that in the next part).
View attachment 1033 View attachment 1032
I've got a lot of other stuff done as well, so the next part should be coming soon.
Stay tuned!
