90 oil cooler

[JamiesTSI]

If you look back threw the threads, I posted the part number for the adaptor. Sealing was done with a copper crush washer and a dab of thread sealent.

It was my opinion only that I do not need to run a low oil temp. valve on my car. I will strongly agree if you run your car in the winter time you most deffinetly will need the low oil temp. valving.

I will post my oil temps when I get the system back on line. I'll see how long it takes the oil temps to come up under normal driving conditions.

Sorry, but I do-not agree with you on what you said about oil temps should be a little higher then your water temps.

On a side note if the machinest I worked with heard you say "The threads may not be standard sizes but they are tapered and very close to the standard pipe threads" they would go, how did you put it "Ballistic". Metric is metric and standard is standard end of story.

 

[Diplomat]

"I thnk I put Hot Oil IN at the bottom & "Cool" Oil OUT at the Top." - BUCK

It's sometimes tough to route radiator lines the ideal way in an automotive application due to space issues. Although, whenever possible, it's best to plumb the HOT side in to the uppermost inlet and the COOL side to the lowest outlet. Since heat rises, this will insure the radiator is as efficient as possible. Doing it the other way around doesn't mean it won't work, it just won't be as efficient. This applies to all radiators, be they engine oil coolers, engine coolant radiators, intercoolers, trans. fluid coolers, A/C condensers, or other.

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[Suparata]

1/8 NPT is 1/8-27
1/8 BSP is 1/8-28 (found on Mitsu small tapered plugs/holes where the sensors are)
3/8 NPT is 3/8-18
3/8 BSP is 3/8-19 (found on Mitsu big tapered plugs on the OFH and the end of the main oil galley/gallery)
½ BSP and 1/2NPT are both ½-14
That’s how close they are.
I did not say close enough to be interchanged and obtain perfect sealing when doing that. But close enough to start a 3/8NPT tap ( or a 16x1.5mm one which has an OD of roughly .630” VERY CLOSE to the OD of the 3/8 tapered plugs and it has close to 17 threads per inch). That is why your 16x1.5mm tap worked in that hole even though the thread in that hole was 3/8BSP.
I also said what should be done after tapping to 3/8NPT and enlarging the entry of the hole to the point of not having a viable thread for any fitting that you might get: enlarging the hole to 18x1.5mm(together with spot-facing the housing to get the surface required for sealing of a straight thread) or going to the next available tapered thread which is 1/2'”. Remember straight threads only provide a mechanical junction. They don't really seal. Tapered threads both join and seal.
So what you did is use a 16x1.5mm fitting in a fairly “loose” thread at the beginning of the hole because the nature of a TAPERED thread and use a crush-washer on a surface that is not flat/machined and you think that’s better than what I recommended.

Even though I said that I admire your determination and also gave you a helping hand, you decided to get into a pissing contest with me. Next time you do that make sure you drink enough water before doing it. As you can see I’m not just throwing things out there without something behind my words and I do my best to make myself helpfull. It is your choice to believe or not what I say (you know the horse and the water story) but if you think you know better make sure you have something to back up your thoughts.

I guess that there has to be guys like you out there because if everybody would do the things right I would loose my “work supply”.
Mitch.

 

[Defiant]

it's best to plumb the HOT side in to the uppermost inlet and the COOL side to the lowest outlet. Since heat rises, this will insure the radiator is as efficient as possible. Doing it the other way around doesn't mean it won't work, it just won't be as efficient. This applies to all radiators, be they engine oil coolers, engine coolant radiators, intercoolers, trans. fluid coolers, A/C condensers, or other.

Yup. Engine coolant radiators take the hot water out of the top of the engine and dump it in the top of the radiator, and pull cooler water out of the bottom of the radiator to feed into the water pump at the bottom of the block passages. This enhances the thermosiphon tendencies of the hot engine, and provides some continued cooling with the engine turned off. The Model T Ford did this without a water pump.

 

[BUCK]

Buck, Sorry for your troubles and please understand that I had to say what I think so others will not do the same mistake you did. I know it hurts especially when all you tried was to make things better. Mitch.

Absolutely no problems SUP & D-Man - Thanx for taking the time to clarify it for me & everybody else - I'll redo it during my Pending Clutch Job - I'd like to think SOME Oil took the path of most resistance thru the damn Filter... Great Thread - already at 500 views...

 

[JamiesTSI]

I hope what I have done will help somebody else. Happy boosting.

I'll post my oil temps when I get the car running again. Should be with-in the week. Waiting for DNP to send the new manifold.

I'm going to do a presure drop test also. In other words take my pressure sensor from its current location and move it to where the temp. sensor is now. See if I can see a big drop in pressure across the cooler.