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8k to spend what do i do?

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SRTravis

Probationary Member
2
0
Jul 9, 2012
Front Range, Colorado
So i have put my 2007 jeep srt8 on the back burning do to everything is too expensive to mod on it for what you get out of it. I have the option to buy a 1992 tsi awd that has been sitting at my girlfriends parents house for a while. decent shape, the engine was blown up by her brother years and years ago and it has just sat since then. I have been thinking about buying it building it and putting it back together. my question is if you guys that know these cars had roughly 8k to put in work what would you guys do???? every car has different things with it when it comes to building it. I want a car we can drive when ever with quite a bit of power. maybe 400-500 horse. Would you guys stroke the stoke motor??? can the stroked motors handle extra boost? what web site do you guys use to order performance parts for these cars? iv been looking on dsmparts is that a good site? what are the best tuning options for these cars? how much power can the stock drive train handle? anything you guys can tell me would be awesome. Thanks!!!
 
Bring the car and 8k to my shop and I'll fix you right up. LOL

But seriously, a decent sized turbo with supporting mods, and a stock 4G63T should meet your goals. The stock drivetrain will probably hold up fine too unless you drive it like you're trying to break it.
 
to get a good idea of where to start, click on the "tech" tab up top, and select "upgrade path" and follow whichever you want.
 
For a $8k street build I would do a built 2.4 liter, 2g head, mild cams, mild valvetrain, and a Holset HX-35, a BW259ET, or some variety of 50-trim for the turbo. Tune with dsmlink.

Extremepsi.com is the shop I got 90% of my stuff from. Always good.
 
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Checkout the vendor announcements for sales and such. You'll also see that they are the majority of the places people buy parts from. The biggest issue of a dsm is not being able to buy new OEM parts for the car. Engine gaskets and such you can get them, but as far as weather stripping, interior pieces, they no longer make that stuff. So with it being a 1992 its an old car and I'm sure every hose and bushing on the car is probably shot and also since you live in Colorado I'm sure the bottom of the car is covered in rust or atleast surface rust.

You need to give the car a good look over and see what needs to be replaced mechanically, and for drivability. A fun and simple setup would be to just rebuild the bottomend (non stroker) rebuild the head, all new gaskets and hoses, basic bolt-ons, fuel mods, and a FP or 2G exhaust manifold with a FP3065. You will be able to make 400-500awhp on pump gas.

Another good idea is to go to the build thread section and just checkout some of them.
 
that was fast! thats what i was looking for was a direction and you guys did it for me. THanks a bunch. Im gonna do all the building myself, iv built several motors before, all domestic though this will be my first DSM turbo build. and J health yes i am going to go through the whole car, the inside im not too worried about since i will probably eventually strip it and this will be a high horse power drag car after i get it on the road and play around with it a little bit. like i said the point at where this car is now is perfect to go through the underside and suspension on it since everything is already removed. Does the engine have to go in from the bottom of these cars?
 
The trans goes in the bottom best, the engine in the top.

If it's to be a drag car, I would stay 2 liter and get a good valvetrain. Then add a big turbo and rev it to 9k+ on the track.
 
$8k...make sure all suspension, brakes, tires are up to snuff. No point in making high HP if it's not safe or reliable.

Stroker or not, I will leave that to the members on here that have experience comparing 2.3-2.4 vs 2.0 as I have only ever had 2.0.

Tuning, you have a lot of options ranging from S-AFC to ECM Link, to Jackal or WereWerwolf (native speed density), Megasquirt, AEM, yada yada yada. It goes on and on. I personally love Jackal/WW, but again, I have never used any of the other programs listed above.

I will agree on the 2G head suggestion. Having had both, I prefer 2G head. Quick response, nice midrange, better design overall.

As for turbo, Holset is a lot of work if a beginner in the dsm world. 20G is nice, I had a BR 20G a few years ago, and FP makes some nice bolt on turbos. 3052 or 3065 if looking for a used one.
 
Invest in the Rick Scott fund. You get a garanteed 15% return. Only thing is, I will need a constant supply of new investors to keep it going but it's totally legit... really :sneaky:

Seriously though, if you are daily driving it, I would definately re-build the blown motor as a stroker. Yes, it will definately handle the boost since you should have forged pistons and stronger rods on the build anyway. Eliminate balance shafts, port the oil filter housing, Kiggly oil pressure regulator in the head, ARP head studs, ported 2g head, tri-layer race bearings, beehive valve springs.

For your horsepower goals a 20g, or Holeset HX35 would be perfect and very streetable with a stroker. Some 272 spec cams to keep the powerband matched to your turbo / engine combo, 3" exhaust, rewired 255hp pump, 900 injectors for pump gas (1200 for E85), adjustable fuel regulator, ECMLink v3 (or other engine management), 2g/EVO 8/9 MAF (or SD), ACT 2600 or one of the new clutch designes like Southbend, and a FMIC.

WHEW!! I just pretty much spent your budget. That will get you there. I would reserve $2k for a possible transmission rebuild/upgrade as well. Suggest you replace your trans, tranfer case, and rear diff' fluid as well. Lot of opinions there but your best bet is to ask to pro's at TRE or Shep what fluid to use.
 
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half way thru 92 they switched to weaker 7 bolt engines. you can tell by the hump or dip in the oil pan. tho if that part of the engine is broken it may not matter if u plan 2 upgrade it all. but if not, from what i have read the 6 bolt stock internals r pretty strong. maybe just do the repairs and spend the rest on bolt ons, engine managment and paint ect...and have extra cash.
 
Oh and you can make that $8k go a lot farther buying second-hand. YMMV, but I never got burnt buying on here and the dsmlink forums. I trust dsmlink forum's a LOT more though, get yourself 'link and get on the forums!

I got my 2.3 wiesco/eagle with a new mitsu crank already assembled and balanced for $1500 on here. My evo3 16G was $250 on here. The housing was trashed but I had another. The best budget (IMO) stoker cams, FP3s, go for around $300, and you can't buy them new. Grab up a Evo3 intake manifold as well for a budget intake, $190 on here versus $500+ for a SMIM. Again, from the evo3 you want an exhaust manifold, which you can port, for around $100. I wouldn't trust any turbo but an OEM turbo that is used though...

Depending on turbo size and selection, the fans may have to be changed, possible the radiator as well. For large turbos you need to use pusher fans instead of pullers to free up space in front of the radiator. For huge turbos, a half rad or inventive mounting is required.

A decently-sized intercooler and piping is also required. Water-to-air is an option. Uh, you may want to change the alternator to a Saturn unit and relocate it the back of the block, saves it from being fried by the exhaust and the stock unit blows.

I would just build it for E85, if available. For 500whp, I wouldn't get less than 1600s since you are going to want more someday. 1200 would be the minimum I would buy. You need a fuel pressure regulator and that's another good thing to get used. Get some good headstuds, ARP L19s, and a OEM mistu MLS headgasket. The new E85-specific fuel pumps are verrry interesting.
 
For 400-500 horsepower i would just use a freshened up 6 bolt with npr pistons, rings, bearings, arp rod and head studs and call it a day. That engine will easily take what you are wanting to make.
 
Use it as a down payment on an Evo 8... ROFL

Seriously though, if you're going to DSM $8K, big stroker, big turbo (don't forget the fuel crap you need), and a better gearbox. After that, your $8k will be gone, but your car will haul ass.
 
To start get rid of the 07 jeep and buy a 98 cherokee or 01 wrangler,
no just kidding but look into where you want a 92 tsi to go and build accordingly whether its to be fuel efficent or more hp
 
8k will get you going, but the little things are going to bring you up around 12k. It just somehow sucks money from your wallet every 50 miles something new breaks or you need this, or that.. its crazy. After all that engine, you probably want a nice interior, new carpet, seats etc and dont forget even the paint job and dents will cost another 2k. Once you start, dont say we didnt warn ya LOL. They are loud, harsh, brutally fast gokarts that cost alot every time you turn the key, but after awhile the break downs are less frequent and they really are one of the best looking, best bang for the buck sports cars ever made.
I prefer 2g, but a 1g awd would be a tempting buy. GL, and get ready to do about 6 months reading
 
8k will get you going, but the little things are going to bring you up around 12k. It just somehow sucks money from your wallet every 50 miles something new breaks or you need this, or that.. its crazy. After all that engine, you probably want a nice interior, new carpet, seats etc and dont forget even the paint job and dents will cost another 2k. Once you start, dont say we didnt warn ya LOL. They are loud, harsh, brutally fast gokarts that cost alot every time you turn the key, but after awhile the break downs are less frequent and they really are one of the best looking, best bang for the buck sports cars ever made.
I prefer 2g, but a 1g awd would be a tempting buy. GL, and get ready to do about 6 months reading

Maybe if you go buy all the top end brand name parts that you don't need. It's pretty easy to make power for WAY less than 8k or 12k on these cars. Some people just spend way too much on these cars.
 
yeah and then break down every few hundred miles.

IT all depends on how you go about it. If you know how to find deals and buy used parts than you can build a car relatively cheap. You don't have to buy every high dollar part that will bolt to your car. I've got a very reliable 2g that I've got around 1800 total invested into including the shell, 6 bolt swap, transmission, axles, ecu, and more. I've never had a reliability issue with any car that I've ever built, and I've never put more than 4k total in any car of my own that I've ever built. I build my own engines, transmissions, tune my own ecu's, fabricate my own piping and exhaust, do my own body work and painting so i know how to save thousands of dollars. IF you go out and buy a built engine from a vendor a built transmission, high end ball bearing turbo, high end tubular header, standalone ecu, and spend your money that way than yeah you will have 20k wrapped up in it real fast, but that isn't required to have a reliable fast car.
 
True. if you do everything yourself, buy used parts, etc.(especially do your own paint!!) then the car will be drastically cheaper. Its just some people do that and some dont have the time or skill. The OP sounds like hes wanting to buy the nice parts and go at it from that angle. BTW, i have to say, these cars are, maybe due to their age, the way theyre driven etc, largely unreliable. Just look at the number of posts any given day. Ive been trolling here and reading for years.
I have more failures with my gst than i did with my NT. But, then again, i drive this one pretty hard LOL so it comes witht he territory i suppose. If it were my DD, i would baby it on the throttle like i did my NT, but i paid alot of money to have an engine that can take the pounding
 
So i have put my 2007 jeep srt8 on the back burning do to everything is too expensive to mod on it for what you get out of it. I have the option to buy a 1992 tsi awd that has been sitting at my girlfriends parents house for a while. decent shape, the engine was blown up by her brother years and years ago and it has just sat since then. I have been thinking about buying it building it and putting it back together. my question is if you guys that know these cars had roughly 8k to put in work what would you guys do???? every car has different things with it when it comes to building it. I want a car we can drive when ever with quite a bit of power. maybe 400-500 horse. Would you guys stroke the stoke motor??? can the stroked motors handle extra boost? what web site do you guys use to order performance parts for these cars? iv been looking on dsmparts is that a good site? what are the best tuning options for these cars? how much power can the stock drive train handle? anything you guys can tell me would be awesome. Thanks!!!


Put it down as a down payment on a Evo X!!! :hellyeah: FTW! LOL!!
 
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