6cm turbo 7cm manifold

[TheBlizz]

i need to put my car back together. and i got a an evoIII maniold (7cm collector port) and a rebuilt 14b (6cm port). now if i install the both those together will there be alot of turbulance? or would i be better off getting a 2g manifold?

 

[TheBlizz]

no one has an opinion?

 

[oldman]

Yes it will create turbulence, port match the gasket and turbine housing to the collector, best of both worlds. BTW do not bump your thread.

 

[mjarrell20]

Exactly

Yes it will create turbulence, port match the gasket and turbine housing to the collector, best of both worlds. BTW do not bump your thread.

Break out the dremel and go at it.

 

[ITSME4G63]

Exactly


Break out the dremel and go at it.

yep, or send it to me and ill port it

 

[oldman]

Break out the dremel and go at it.

Dremels are for girls.

 

[kenamond]

Die grinder, baby!! Taking off the major sections of metal goes quick. Then go over it with a dremel and 80 grit flapwheel, then hand sand 100, 220, 600, then wet sand 600. It'll be shiney, but if you want mirror, go up to finer grit wet sanding and finish with polishing compound. Here is my 7cm port job after the 600 grit wet-sand.

 

[TheBlizz]

can i mess up the turbo by porting it wrong? i got an pnumatic powered die grinder. no bit tho. and can i port the turbo w/ taking it apart?

 

[CyberEye]

can i mess up the turbo by porting it wrong? i got an pnumatic powered die grinder. no bit tho. and can i port the turbo w/ taking it apart?

You can do it without taking it apart, but make SURE you blow the living crap out of it before putting it back on the car. Make sure any and all little pieces of metal are out of there.

 

[kenamond]

I'm not sure how the 14b turbine housing connects to the center section, but it might just be 4 bolts (you can see 3 of them on the right side of the picture of my B28 housing in my earlier post on this thread). If it is, it's trivial to take the housing off the center section. Then you can clamp it in a vice much more easily. Just make sure you mark the orientation of the turbine housing relative to the center section (scribe line on each) so that you can get it clocked correctly when you put things back together.

If you already have a grinder, you just need a couple of cylindrical radius end burrs. Get one or two 1/2" diameter or 5/8" diameter burrs 1" long (cutting head length) that are double-cut and carbide with 2-1/2" shank. Make sure you get the right shank diameter for your die grinder (1/4" usually). Here's what they look like:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If you do a web search on "carbide burrs", you'll be on your way. These cost $20-30 each. You'll probably only need 1 for steel, but cast iron dulls them.

After using the grinder (could take as little as 30 minutes if you're a pro, but plan on a couple of hours if you're being careful), you'll move on to dremel with a flapwheel (I used 80 grit, and it works wonders). Here's what they look like (it's a bunch of strips of sandpaper radiating out from the center shaft like an old paddlewheel boat):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

One of the flapwheels may be enough, but you might end up needing a second. The ends of the numerous strips of sandpaper get eaten away as you go, so the whole thing shrinks in diameter until you just have the center hub. These are $5-7 each depending where you find them. This goes very quick and gets the surface pretty damned smooth, but it isn't digging huge ruts, just smoothing out the surface left by the burr.

After that, you hand sand (I did 100, 220, 600 grit dry sanding, and finished with wet 600).

And you can screw up, but if you research porting enough, you'll know what you have to do. Don't worry, you're not going to take out a 1/4" deep gouge in 1 second with your grinder. It'll take off maybe 1/16" or less per pass.