6bolt 2.3l top end(head) info

[vl4bad]

okay, sooooo

Shortblock(bottom end)
2.3l stroker
eagle rods
ross racing pistons
acl race bearings
o-ringed block


Head(top end)
HKS 264/272
BC Springs & Retainers
crower valves(not sure)
Fidanza Camshaft Gears

1g intake manifold
DNP Exhaust Manifold
Garrett GT30R Custom setup t3/t4
Tial 44mm Wastegate
650cc (or maybe they are 680cc? cant remember) injectors
msd red ignition wires
ngk bpr8

CAR WILL BE DAILY"D (will see the drag strip one or two times, and a few track days in the summer)

Well I sent my head to the machine shop so i can continue building my motor, and i got bad news, saying I might need a new head or might just need to refresh my valves/springs/retainers/valve stem seals.

I'm not too sure what valves/springs/retainers/valve stem seals I should get...Im not looking to buy any cheap parts to get the build done i want to buy the ideal part that is going to complete my build with quality. people need some opinions today/tonight/2mrrw a.m.

Good input would be great!!!

 

[BogusSVO]

What is the shop is saying is wrong with your current BC springs and retainers? What is wrong with the valves?

What is wrong with the head?

I can understand they want to change the valve stem seals. Vition Blue is my choice.

 

[jayson427]

there shouldnt be any issue with the springs and retainers you have. i like ferra valves and sbi lifters but its all up to you. what kind of head gasket do you have or getting?

 

[vl4bad]

What is the shop is saying is wrong with your current BC springs and retainers? What is wrong with the valves?

What is wrong with the head?

I can understand they want to change the valve stem seals. Vition Blue is my choice.

they said i have really low compression in 3 cylinders but they have to disassemble the head tomorrow to be 100% sure on whats wrong/damaged. I'm trying to prepare now so I can just order shtufff when i get the info on the head.

there shouldnt be any issue with the springs and retainers you have. i like ferra valves and sbi lifters but its all up to you. what kind of head gasket do you have or getting?

using the oem mitsu heard its the best thing for sealing purpose's especially in the stroker's. im not going to be racing that much at the tracks.

 

[BogusSVO]

Low compression can be lots of things.

Doubtful you bent valves in 3 cylinders and not the forth.

How long since the head was rebuilt the last time?

Did they run a leak down test to narrow the possiablities from the short block to the head? Or did they just do a compression test and snatch the head off?

 

[vl4bad]

Low compression can be lots of things.

Doubtful you bent valves in 3 cylinders and not the forth.

How long since the head was rebuilt the last time?

Did they run a leak down test to narrow the possiablities from the short block to the head? Or did they just do a compression test and snatch the head off?

well the motor isnt together and who knows the last time the head was even serviced..

Machine shop didn't disassemble the head yet, should hear back from them tomorrow.

But yeah can you recommend any good valves i think i should go titanium now instead of in the future...unless i just replace some valves with non-titanium but good high quality valves.

Also a thanks to everyone that has responded in a quick timely manner.

 

[BogusSVO]

It will cost you about $130 per valve ( x 16 ) to have Ti valves made. Not to mention the cost of the beryllium seats that need to be installed.

I would think you mean some stainless steel valves.

The BC valves are a 21-4N one piece stainless steel, as are the ENGBLDR ones. Either would be a good choice.

 

[vl4bad]

It will cost you about $130 per valve ( x 16 ) to have Ti valves made. Not to mention the cost of the beryllium seats that need to be installed.

I would think you mean some stainless steel valves.

The BC valves are a 21-4N one piece stainless steel, as are the ENGBLDR ones. Either would be a good choice.

yeah im going with bc.

 

[vl4bad]

random question, on my setup what oil should i be using, i know this is a ridiculous question just wanna see if im right or not.

all fluids through out the car, recommendations are welcome.
gonna go to the local speedshop and buy these, my build needs to be done by tomorrow night.

 

[HIGHPSI4]

So, the shop told you the engine had low compression in 3 cyclinders but the engine is not together? Taking the engine apart should show them why it has low compression. As Bogas stated, can be lots of things and probably not the head. ENGBLDR valves are great. As for oil just search the site. Loads of threads on oil and engine break in methods.

 

[vl4bad]

So, the shop told you the engine had low compression in 3 cyclinders but the engine is not together? Taking the engine apart should show them why it has low compression. As Bogas stated, can be lots of things and probably not the head. ENGBLDR valves are great. As for oil just search the site. Loads of threads on oil and engine break in methods.

no no no your getting it all mixed up.

my mechanic and i tore apart my block from the head I'm swapping out my shortblock with a new stroker 2.3l race built.

WE SENT THE HEAD TO GET MACHINED< and thats when they found out about the 3 cylinders, which had 3 valve guides cracked so that ended up being the reason why my car wouldn't start even though with a compression test it showed decent to low numbers. basically the way that happened was the last owner is a half ass sunofabitch so thats what results in being a non "do it once, do it right" type of guy. oh well.

and thanks for the use the search button shit, alot of people have different OPINIONS on what oil to use and stuff like that which is why im trying to get FACTS saying what the best oil/ fluids are the best of the best for our monsters.

 

[ed1380]

Diesel oil. 15-40 in the summer. 10-30 during colder weather. Rotella is good oil.

 

[vl4bad]

Diesel oil. 15-40 in the summer. 10-30 during colder weather. Rotella is good oil.

seriously?

ive never even heard of that...
normally ppl say mobil 1, royal purple, or bradd penn.

 

[BogusSVO]

A handfull of cracked guides should not keep the car from running, an oil consumption issue I could see. But not low compression

 

[vl4bad]

A handfull of cracked guides should not keep the car from running, an oil consumption issue I could see. But not low compression

well, thats what happened so idk man...

 

[ed1380]

seriously?

ive never even heard of that...
normally ppl say mobil 1, royal purple, or bradd penn.

Yup. Diesel oil has more zinc and phosphorus vs normal oil.

You can run those oils too, but I'm not fond of throwing money for a name. I get my rotella for $10 a gallon and I'd trust it over the royal purple.


As for the head, I'd just do a normal rebuild. I have pretty much the same setup. 2.3 with stock head and 264/272 cams and hx35

 

[vl4bad]

Yup. Diesel oil has more zinc and phosphorus vs normal oil.

You can run those oils too, but I'm not fond of throwing money for a name. I get my rotella for $10 a gallon and I'd trust it over the royal purple.


As for the head, I'd just do a normal rebuild. I have pretty much the same setup. 2.3 with stock head and 264/272 cams and hx35

how is that setup like? if you could change something what would it be

 

[vl4bad]

basically valve guides were cracked, ridiculously messed up and alot of valves needed to be replaced from getting too hot, i had low to no compression on cylinders.
replaced all intake valves, new valve stems, new retainers, machined and smoother than a babys bottom.
ported intake and exhaust ports, acid dipped. nice and new also have the BC AND crower springs and retainers, hks 272/264, fidanza cam gears.

finally everything is looking good, and i got my problem solved.,