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My 2.3l capabilities

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400hp93talon

10+ Year Contributor
699
4
Aug 11, 2009
Fort Madison, Iowa
I bought a 6bolt 2.3l short block and it has Manley h beam rods,Manley pistons(8.5:1 I believe),Oem 2.4l Crank and arp rod bolts and bored 20 over.....Does anybody have an idea on how much whp and torque this setup will be good becuase I'm hopin to get 550 to 600whp out of it....It's brand new and I snatched it up for 1500 so hopefully its worth it haha. Im gonna run a built head with 272's and probably an hx40 turbo.
 
It is not a question of a 2.3l stroker, turbo choice, or if your head it built or not. It has to do with how much boost(more importantly airflow), what fuel your running, whos tuning the car, and supporting mods. You can make 200whp to 800whp on that engine setup. 200whp to 650whp with that turbo.
 
I think his question was more about parts durability than trying to bench race...

OP, the weakest link is either going to be the 2.4 crank or the manley rods, both of which have been proven to hold more than 600whp, so you should be covered for your goals.

+1. He is exactly right. I don't know about the strength/durability of the 2.4L crank but the 4g63 cranks have proven to hold TONS of power. You should hit 500 with your setup easily if you run the HX40 and some E85. :thumb:
 
I think his question was more about parts durability than trying to bench race...

OP, the weakest link is either going to be the 2.4 crank or the manley rods, both of which have been proven to hold more than 600whp, so you should be covered for your goals.

Yeah the Oem crank was my main concern......but thanks alot guys I've got a great tuner(ecmlink v3) and I'm going to run E85 so my goals should be well within reach!!!!.....Im still needing some opinions on what manifolds to run...I'll probably go with a venom intake and some brand of ram horn manifold just dont know which one. Open to any suggestions guys thanks again!!!
 
If it means anything to you I have a 2.4l crank cut 50 on the mains and 50 on the rods and I have seen 50+lb/min of airflow. I am planning on running this crank on my new setup this year which will be WAY more. A guy over on the link forums ran a cut crank well into the 600 whp range. The crank will be fine.

Magnus manifold or the new krause cast intake manifold.

The ERL t3 manifold or the FP race manifold depending on which hotside you run.
 
Do you always have to cut the mains and rods 50 regardless of what 2.4 crank you use? Sorry I know it's a little off topic. I just never heard that before.
 
Do you always have to cut the mains and rods 50 regardless of what 2.4 crank you use? Sorry I know it's a little off topic. I just never heard that before.

No. There are a lot of DSMers that will tell you to never cut a crank. I won't, but I'd try not to cut it more than necessary, 0.010" is the usual amount, just guessing but 0.050" was probably required to remove scarring from a lightly spun bearing or some other minor damage done to the crank.
 
That's what I was wondering. If it was required to fit, or if VIPER did it because it was scarred. To my understanding you didn't have to, just need some confirmation.
 
If it means anything to you I have a 2.4l crank cut 50 on the mains and 50 on the rods and I have seen 50+lb/min of airflow. I am planning on running this crank on my new setup this year which will be WAY more. A guy over on the link forums ran a cut crank well into the 600 whp range. The crank will be fine.

Magnus manifold or the new krause cast intake manifold.

The ERL t3 manifold or the FP race manifold depending on which hotside you run.

I just decided on a magnus intake last night......Not sure which hotside Im gonna use I know that Shearer makes a sick twin scroll manifold but I might use a bullseye hot side.
 
I simply sent the crank out to get cut and polished and it came back with a card saying what bearings I needed. It needed to be cut since the owner of the crank before me spun bearings.

Magnus SMIM is a great product. I am going to be selling my street soon since I went with something a little more aggressive. Also if you need a BEP housing, send me a pm. I have an account with them.
 
I simply sent the crank out to get cut and polished and it came back with a card saying what bearings I needed. It needed to be cut since the owner of the crank before me spun bearings.

Magnus SMIM is a great product. I am going to be selling my street soon since I went with something a little more aggressive. Also if you need a BEP housing, send me a pm. I have an account with them.

Give me a shout out when you sell the manifold!!!....Ill hit you up if I need the bep housing thanks man!!:thumb:
 
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