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6 bolt swap won't stay running, hard start

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justinh722

15+ Year Contributor
130
1
May 3, 2010
Hampton, Iowa
I Just completed a 6 bolt swap and I'm having troubles getting the car running. The compression is good and I have heard the engine run before. The timing belt is on right, triple checked it. It has the 1g CAS in it from a 1990 and the harness is a 95. The car will start if I floor the pedal but it won't rev up. The rpms just lope at like 300. The timing in ecm link shoots up to 21 while starting it...not sure if that's normal.

I put the car at #1 TDC and aligned the indentations on the CAS for correct timing. I swapped plug wires around numerous times cause the 2G coils were used and weren't mounted the same. I have 1-4 on the same coil and 2-3 on the other coil. If I swap them to the oposite coils, the car wont start and backfires out the intake. I currently have the knock sensor unhooked ### I can't find it at the moment. Is there any other sensors besides the MAS and the CAS that would cause this condition?
 
Glad to hear you are building some boost now.

No.

You don't have to ground to adjust the timing by Ear.

You do have to ground it, IF you are using a Timing Gun, to set the Proper Timing .

Replace your Throttle Body Seals, and put some new Throttle Gaskets.
So that way you are all set. :sneaky: Some times is annoying installing the Throttle body and find out that you have a leak from the Gaskets.:ohdamn:
 
I can get the car to sorta run ok if I keep the RPM above 2000. I have the RPM limiter set to 4500 and I can hit that easily. The car won't idle. I have to open the throttle to get it to start. The TPS reads 0 percent when closed and 100 percent when open. Reads .65 volts when closed and around 4.7 when opened.

Idle switch reads -1 but I can't even get it to idle. It seems like it's misfiring in the lower RPMS. I am venting the BOV to the atmosphere which I know is a no no without speed density. I do have a stock 1g BOV that I could recirculate if it would fit on the type RS flange. I still don't think that's the problem though. Would not having an O2 sensor hooked up at all cause this?
 
Are you talking about the Front Sensor?. or Rear Sensor?.
The Front sensor will give you a lot of bad problems. But The rear one will give you a really light Problem.
Are you Using ECMLink?, or what kind of Tunning are you using
If you are using Link, you can disable the O2 sensor, to make the car work better.
 
It's the front sensor. I have an LC-1 wideband I need to install and simulate the narrow band with ECMlink v3. For now, I just left the front O2 unhooked because I had clipped the wiring harness thinking I wouldn't use it again. I just got done wiring the O2 back up and plugged it in but I haven't been able to start the car because the neighbors would get pissed. I still don't think the O2 sensor would be the problem ### car's can run in open loop just fine.
 
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