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6-bolt swap major problems

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waiting2bl33d

15+ Year Contributor
126
1
Oct 19, 2004
Nixa, Missouri
alright so i just got my car back from the shop and it has a few problems i got the cyclone 6-bolt motor w/ the runners wired open i belive at all times. i have a turbo X's boost controller set at 9 psi a apexi turbo timer catless exhaust from the DP back heres the problem. the car shutters under crusing speeds example: 60 in 5th the A/F from the turbo timer will go from a 14.5 to a 17 and when you let off the gas and keep it in gear it will just go up a little maybe to 18.0 but wont go to 20.0+ the car gets lean when crusing the car popped two CEL codes P1400 and P0300 the 0300 is the one that is screwing me up i think. P0300 = random misfire P1400 = MDP sensor apprently common in a 6-bolt swap. any help would be appricated thanks alot.

Also i system was presserized and found no vaccum leaks
and the BOV is broke and isn't wired up getting a new one in a week hopefully
 
well there are somethings i dont understand. What is with your bov being broken and not wired up? That is new. was it leaking and you disconnected it? Even if you dont run the top hose on it it will still leak. The other thing is that the codes are all due to emissions controls and stuff like that. Youll want to save up and get dsmlink. Anyhow also chekc and see if the shop that installed the motor installed a pytiometer (the spelling is messed up) they usually hook this up on your baro wire on the ecu. This might be turned to much in one direction cause you to run lean. It could be a number of other things. I would take it back and get them to look at it.

Good luck

Scott
 
Only way your going to get rid of that random misfire is if you do the Baro Mod or get Dsmlink and i would opt to get it. I myself just did a 6 bolt swap and had no problems whatsoever after turning it on etc. No random misfires or any other codes and whats funny is i didn't have to check the codes in dsmlink because they never popped up. Guess am one of the lucky ones LOL
 
Yea, whatever your bov problem is, fix it. As for the the random misfire code, I fixed mine with a 10k potentiometer from radio shack. Its 3 dollars. Just wire it in with the orange and grey stripped wire coming off your ecu. The exact pinout of the ecu is on vfaq. I hope you soldered all your connections. I got the random misfire (leans out and act like it runs off of 2 cylinders) but creating resistance in the barometric preasure sensor wire keeps the ecu from look for random misfires. My car ran great like that after I fixed all my other issues.
 
alright to answer a few questions the BOV's vaccum isn't hooked up b/c it will not hold vaccum pressure, they didn't do the pytiometer thing and it is getting done today most likly any other help would be aprrecated thanks alot for your quick respones
 
get your bov fixed asap. As far as everything else goes most of the codes are emissions related because im sure they are not hooked up. As far as the mdp you just let it sort of dangle in the back and its up to you if you want to run a vac source to the nipple of it. If you dont want check engine lights make sure you leave all sensors pluged in you dont have to have vac going to them just have them pluged in. also like was said make sure you new harness that wires in the cas, crank angle sensor and coil pack is all good and soldered. Then check ignition timing that should make your car run better all on its own. Good luck

Scott
 
alright so i did the potinmeter thingy and my CEL went away which is great and it doesn't do the stuttering which is better now i'm having very high idle problems 2 grand plus i reset ECu (disconnected bat) and it was low but did the stuttering problem so i turned the potinmeter and stutter went away now idle is high agian i can adjust the potinmeter but then the stuttering comes back and my A/F goes lean is this because i don't have a fuel controller of some sort like afc 2
 
are you guys the are using the potentiometers having this problem with a green top or black top cas?
 
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