The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

6 bolt swap help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BWeston

10+ Year Contributor
124
0
Mar 27, 2010
Oneonta, Alabama
Hello, I've been working on a 6bolt swap lately for my 98 GST. We put the motor in and plugged everything up, but my car won't idle. When you crank it, it sort of misses for a second, then it catches and revs to like 4,000 or 5,000 and then it just dies. Giving the car throttle doesn't change anything, you can have the pedal to the metal or not give it any gas at all and it still does the same thing. I'm under the impression that the adaptor harness for the 1g CAS in a 2g inverts the firing order on the coil pack, so i inverted it from 4123 to 3214, and it does the same thing either way. I was just curious if I needed to use a 1g coil pack and power transistor, all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks :dsm:
 
Last edited:
i had a the same issues with mine when i dropped the six bolt in my 95. i found a better set up than doing the first gen cas setup. go to kiggly racing they have a crank sensor its pricey but its good quality. what it does is rotate the crank sensor 180 degrees so you can run both of the updated sensors. my engine runs well now after doing that its not guessing and i dont missfire like with the first gen cas setup. now also when i was having those issues i found that i also had a bad intake gasket which was letting in extra air after the throttle body and causing it to run crazy. if you can get it to run long enough try to get a can of lets say carburator cleaner and spray it around your engine bay that will help you find a leak instintly by the engine reving up.
back to the cas setup. are you sure you have all the wiring straight? the guy that had the car before me destroyed the wiring and it was a mess to sort through. sometimes its best to take a step back and look into the simple things to know its right and rule problems out. also did you check your tps and other sensors to make sure they are giving out the correct volts or to make sure they are even getting volts?
 
i had a the same issues with mine when i dropped the six bolt in my 95. i found a better set up than doing the first gen cas setup. go to kiggly racing they have a crank sensor its pricey but its good quality. what it does is rotate the crank sensor 180 degrees so you can run both of the updated sensors. my engine runs well now after doing that its not guessing and i dont missfire like with the first gen cas setup. now also when i was having those issues i found that i also had a bad intake gasket which was letting in extra air after the throttle body and causing it to run crazy. if you can get it to run long enough try to get a can of lets say carburator cleaner and spray it around your engine bay that will help you find a leak instintly by the engine reving up.
back to the cas setup. are you sure you have all the wiring straight? the guy that had the car before me destroyed the wiring and it was a mess to sort through. sometimes its best to take a step back and look into the simple things to know its right and rule problems out. also did you check your tps and other sensors to make sure they are giving out the correct volts or to make sure they are even getting volts?
I haven't checked any of the sensors themselves, but the motor was running perfect when i pulled it out of my wrecked 97 GST. Everything is plugged up minus the MAP sensor. I swapped on a 1g intake manifold after i pulled the motor, and it doesn't have the MAP sensor on it. It wouldn't cause it to crank and idle perfectly for 2 or 3 seconds and then just die, without any kind of sputtering or anything. I think the magnus motorsports guide said i needed a 1g coilpack and ignition power transistor. I guess i'm gonna buy that and see if that makes a difference.
 
Im pretty sure its going to need that sensor for communication. also im running the second gen coil packs and what not on mine and its ok. let me know if the magnus stuff helps, but Im just wondering if you need that map sensor. I figure if you have one laying around try to get it in there before you spend tons of money you dont need to.
 
Yea I am sure you will need the MAP sensor hooked up. The coils should have no affect on your motor as long as you swapped the firing order. I am sure once you get your MAP sensor plugged in and as long as you do it right it should run fine. I wouldn't even install the other coil packs and power control module so you can return them!
 
Yea I am sure you will need the MAP sensor hooked up. The coils should have no affect on your motor as long as you swapped the firing order. I am sure once you get your MAP sensor plugged in and as long as you do it right it should run fine. I wouldn't even install the other coil packs and power control module so you can return them!

I agree with him fully make sure your firing order is correct and that your map sensor is plugged in. i think once you get to that point it should run great. When I first had my talon the guy before me had it all setup for the 94 cas. I went with the kiggly setup so it was basically like going back to 95 stock. So my firing order was basically 180 off took me a few to figure out that the firing order was off but as soon as I did she purred. Try that out see it it helps. But i dont think there is a differance in the coils so try to save yourself some coin first
 
Well it's kinda hard not to spend money when you're doing a 6-bolt swap, LOL. It's really just a matter of process of elimination and reading up on several different guides and putting together what you need. I don't think the MAP sensor would cause it to crank perfectly, idle for 2 seconds and then shut itself off, no sputtering whatsoever. from what i've gathered, it would just cause a bad idle. I appreciate all the help guys, I'm going to try the coilpack, that's what the magnus guide said you needed for 6bolt block and 1g head. I will post back when i get the coil pack installed. Thanks again! :dsm:
 
Im pretty sure its going to need that sensor for communication. also im running the second gen coil packs and what not on mine and its ok. let me know if the magnus stuff helps, but Im just wondering if you need that map sensor. I figure if you have one laying around try to get it in there before you spend tons of money you dont need to.
oh and i have plenty of map sensors on 2g intake manifolds, i just don't have the adaptor for the 1g intake mani. I'll have to get one and T it off on the vacuum line on the back of the manifold
 
Well I plugged everything up, I used the 1G coilpack with the 2G Ignition Power Transistor. Firing order is inverted to 3214. It cranked up and idled fine, but it sounds like it's out of time. The timing marks were all dead on, would incorrect ignition timing make the car sound like shit? Also, I cranked it and let it run for a minute or two like I said, then I turned it off. When I tried to crank it again a few minutes later, it cranked up for 2 seconds and then died. What the hell?
 
Oh yeah incorrect timing will totaly make your car wacko, what kind of vacume reading are you getting? I'm just finishing up my 6 bolt swap and all these horror stories keep popping up :( keep us informed and we'll figure it out.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top