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6 bolt swap help!!

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THEKILLERWHALE

10+ Year Contributor
90
0
Mar 28, 2011
San Diego, California
98 gst
6 bolt swap
95 eprom ecu

okay so the motor was swapped and everything when i bought the car

but, it had a few problems, the previous owner did not take care of the car, plus there was some stuff i wanted done

so, i had the car rebuilt along with a couple upgrades, bored throttle body, new fmic, new intake, and a few broken sensors were replaced, along with the o2 sensors and the aem wideband being hooked up incorrectly. also the previous owner had put larger injectors in and not tuned or anything for it, so it ran a little sketchy.

now for what happened:

after the rebuild and everything, it ran fine, everything worked well. but after a little bit of driving the check engine light will come on and a misfire code will throw and it will run on three cyclinders. im being told thats a 6-bolt swap problem. i had the ecu checked out and inspected and its fine. im also being told the only way to fix it is to get dsmlink and delete the code from the ecu to prevent it from happening. i feel like with it being the same motor in a sense, there should be a way around that without having ecm link.

i was planning on getting ecm link eventually because i have the larger injectors still and i would like to put them back in and tune it. but not right now. right now i just want the car to run like it should. which is a stock rebuild, plus a few upgrades. from what i understand the car mainly throws it on cruise, because the ecu looks for problems when you cruis for more than 90 seconds or whatever it is. thats when it comes on and goes to three cyclinders. how can i fix that? or is really my only option dsmlink?

thanks

i know i already posted this once, im sorry, meant to make it a thread
 
I know you dont want to hear this but your best bet is the DSMlink. It seems like you are going to want to build your car anyway so why spend the extra money to run stock and have to then spend the money to build it back up - you're in the middle right now. DSMs have never been known to be that everyday driver with no problems.

You can find the DSMlinks pretty cheap these days online. Godd luck with the ride.
 
Yeah your probably going to need dsmlink, cause I had the same problem and I just set dsmlink to ignore the misfire and the problem went away.
 
Pot mod, ECMlink, or get a palm logger that allows you to clear codes.

Those are your three choices.

What CAS are you using? Black lid or Green lid? I had a black lid and I got the code ALL THE TIME, almost every 2 or 3 miles. I moved to the Green lid and I got it maybe 1 or 2 a day. Doing this might make it more bearable, especially if you have a palm logger that allows you to clear codes. Thats how I did it for about a year. With the logger you can clear the code while driving and it will start firing on all 4 cylinders again, with no need to turn the car off.

But I would suggest ECMlink above ALL other alternatives. Get the lite version if money is a concern.
 
thanks for the advice, i accepted the fact that it just needs to be done correctly, with dsmlink. as soon as i get my car shipped im going to order dsm link. especially because i already have an eprom *socketed* ecu :)

on a side note tho, i was impressed with the potentiometer mod, that's awfully crafty.

props to that guy
 
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