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6 bolt engine build suggestions

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Cdc1221

10+ Year Contributor
1,513
1
Feb 16, 2012
Jackson, Georgia
So I finally got the cash to build a forged bottom end, and I started shopping around for everything. I decided on scat coupled with the wiseco 8.3:1 standard bores. Get to looking at acl trimetals, and notice they offer standard and .001" oil clearance. What is the oversize for? Heavier weight oil? Also, should I use my 1g or 2g head? I like the idea of better off boost power, but not too crazy about using the stock 2g Mani. I'm planning to run an hx35 so I wonder which would be better.
 
oversize if for fixing an oem crank that spun a bearing. with straighenting the crank the tolerence may be a little greater on than another. if you are going to have it built by a machinist have him get you the clearneces and tolerances and order the bearings when the results come back. its alot easier than having to have to exchange and ship parts back and fourth. also do your research on rods. scat?? if your going for a mid to high hp build i would recommend a set of turbo-tuffs
 
Oversized bearings are for a crank that has been machined. When you machine a crank you remove some of the metal itself making it smaller around so you will need the oversized bearings to make up for the removed material.

Dont buy any pistons until you have the block bored to remove any imperfections on the cylinder walls. The more material that has to be removed the larger pistions you will need to fill in the holes.
 
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If you are going that far into a build, dont waste moeny on anything factory evo,jdm,cyclone or otherwise spend the extra 100-150 bucks on a good sheetmetal intake magnus or others. And alot of comapanies offer custom builds which have blocked off nitrous bungs allready if you evr wanted it, and come extrude honed so theres no guessing or doubting some local redneck machine shop with a dremel tool.
 
Thanks guys. I don't have the cash for turbo tuffs. This is just a 500ish HP build anyway. And it was just a personal dilemma really. I already have almost 3 engines worth of parts, so its basically deciding which head to build up, my 1g or 2g LOL. Think I'm gonna go with the 2g head.
 
I had the same dilemna you are having, which head to use. I did a lot of research for my build and believe me when I tell you there is a lot of info/debates on which head is better. I wish I had links to the info for you but I don't have anything saved on this computer.

I know that Curt Brown and Kiggly racing promote the 2g head mainly because it flows air at a higher velocity with its smaller intake ports. I know there are tons of threads/forums that compare the 2g head and evo 8 head and the intake ports are very similar in size, which raises the question (one of many) of why mitsubishi would continue using smaller ports if they weren't as good as the bigger ones.

I could probably go on for pages but to the point, I would recommend the 2g head, possibly with the evo 3/rvr intake manifold with 1g throttle body since the size of the intake ports are very similar. These intake manifolds, as far as I know with research, have been dyno proven to be overall better than the stock 2g manifold, especially in the mid to top end with little to no sacrifice in the low, and they are cast so you don't have to worry about welds cracking like you would with a sheet metal intake manfold. And it should get you to your h.p. goal no problem (with other supporting mods obviously).

Rambling again, sorry. This is just my personal opinion. My extensive research convinced me to go with a Curt Brown 2g race head and evo 3 intake manifold, although I'm sure I'm gonna have to upgrade to a different intake manifold soon, but that's another rant. I don't think you're gonna have to worry about outflowing that manifold.
 
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